4g64 find

[Andrew7dg]

So I was at U pull yesterday and was walking around seeing what I could find. Didn't find what I went there for however I did find an Expo van sitting there with a 4g64 engine.

Transmission has already been removed so half the work is done for me. So after a couple of hours of work I through the short block into the wheel borrow and took it home in my eclipse.

So now I am the proud owner of this 4g64 6 bolt block.

I am trying to find links to what I have to do to get this working. However I am having a hard time finding them. It seems like the old links have closed down. If anyone knows of a good website please link. I will still search. I just keep finding pages on 2g 4g64 and I don't think that is quite the same thing.

I like the Idea of having a 2.4L block in my car for the extra torque.

I would like to know if I have the correct block though. Everyone talks about the hyundai block as the choice to have for a 2.4L. But this is the 4g64 block with the 12 1/4" so the trans should bolt right up to it.

Anyway I know that some of the people on this bord will have knowledge on this subject more then I.

Any input on recomendations on how to build this up would be helpful!

[iceminion]

Sorry the block is not usable. You should sell it to me, ill give you $100.

(just kidding, I just built up one of these, they rock)

You need to have the block cleaned, inspected and bored .20 over

buy and install pistons and rods, you will need forged pistons and forged rods. You will also need the balance shaft eliminator kit+install, 4g64 timing belt and cam gears

To be honest, you will be spending well over a grand to get the shortblock usable, possibly more like 2 grand.

[sleepydsm]

Yeah but he'll have a nice built engine.

And if you're gonna do that, might as well go big. Get ARP Main studs, have the main bearing caps line honed or bored. If you need to have the crank reground, make sure you have it re-nitride coated. Thats a heat treating process that hardens the surface of the bearing journals, the factory cranks come like that (although lotsa people swear some of the 2g ones were not, and that is one small factor in the crankwalk issue). And you might as well get one of those aftermarket main girdles. Blageo23 just had all this done, and more, to his 4G64 block. PM him for more info!

[sleepydsm]

If you wanted to be a cheap ass, you could probably use the stock rods, with aftermarket pistons, and if the cylinder walls are ok you could probably just hone it. I think the rods are the same length... but I don't know for sure. U pull R parts has been a great source of 2.4L blocks for my friends and I!

[iceminion]

the stock 1G big rods are rated to 380 hp in the 2.4, you will NEED to buy custom forged pistons for that block, the stock pistons for the 2.4 will put your car at like 10:1 compression, and the turbo pistons on the DSMs are too small to fit into the large 4g64 bore.

Dont cobble this together and throw a bearing and ruin your crank, the crank is the most valuable part of your find, you can build a 2.3 stroker by using the 4g63 block (thats what I have)

[JET]

I don't know who "rated" the stock rods in a 2.4, but that is pretty low. Also, don't bother with ARP mains, use the stock bolts. ARP mains are just a pain in the butt if you aren't going for huge HP (well over 500awhp).

The 4g64 is the same as the g4cs block, except it is missing one passage. There was a lot of talk about whether it was needed or not, it has been used both ways.

[Super Bleeder!!]

When i built my 2.4 i used stock mains. If they were good enough to put rau into the 6s they are good enough for me.

Motors by Gosh has a torque plate for these motors if you want some EXCELLENT machine work done at an amazing price.

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by JET

Also, don't bother with ARP mains, use the stock bolts. ARP mains are just a pain in the butt if you aren't going for huge HP (well over 500awhp).

I wouldn't even bother with them then. I'd only use ARP mains if you're putting on a girdle, or you have a damaged cap. I'd just get some nice new Mitsu main bolts instead since stock bolts don't like to be retorqued more than a time or two.

[Andrew7dg]

This is all great info!!!!

This is the kind of info I am looking for. I was about to go with forged internals on my 4g63 but figured I better wait. I am glad I did now!
I don't think there is anyway else to build this motor without forged internals. Even if I went with the stock rods 360hp, kind of a waste on a 2.4L.
It will be a long build up but I think it will be worth the extra time and money. Plus I like playing around with engines.

The passage, Is this the water passage missing on the side of the block for coolent or is this an oil passage? Does it really matter if it is there or not?

I know it doesn't have oil squirters but when you switch to forged, I don't think it matters.

GoatBlower, I think I have heard you say that you are detuning yours, are you going to keep with the 2.4L and if so whats your setup are you going with, if you don't mind me asking?

From what I have read so far, once you get the forged internals, the timing belt, and ajustable cam shaft sprockets everything should be able to swap over from the 4g63 to the 4g64 block. I know there is some trick on setting up the cam shafts because the lines won't line up. Anything else I should be aware of? Drilling any passages? Weird quirks?

I do have anothe question, why does everyone go with a stroker 4g63 instead of a 4g64? I would think it is almost easier to go with a 4g64 route. Both setups I think have to have special pistons.

For U pull having these block, yes they have been a great source but everytime I have went there all of them have been gone. I was just lucky this time I guess. That and no one wants to work on cars on fall going into winter.

I figured out why the expo was in the junk yard. I took the timing belt cover off and the balance shaft belt was shredded. I am thinking the origional owner didn't want to mess with fixing this or thought something major was damaged because of the vibration and junked the van.

Thanks again for all of the info!

[JET]

The only thing you need special for the 2.4 is a T-belt from a 95 DOHC Galant. The timing gears will be offset slightly, or you can remark the stock gears. I have no idea why people do 2.3's, a 2.4 is just as easy. The only thing I can think is they only have a 2.4 crank, but no block.

Just throw in some Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods, then you are good to go. You can have the short block all done for about a grand if you assemble it yourself. If you put a new case and all new T-belt assy on , then you are about $1,500.

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by Andrew7dg

GoatBlower, I think I have heard you say that you are detuning yours, are you going to keep with the 2.4L and if so whats your setup are you going with, if you don't mind me asking?

Nope, scrapped that idea, I just simplified things for better streetability. I swapped my AEM EMS for a DSMlink and 2G mas and added about 300 lbs of creature comfort back into the car. The rest is the same:

-2.4 Eagle/Wiseco, no oil squirters
-1G head self ported, 1mm over ss valves, HKS 272 cams, Crower springs and retainers
-FP 3575
-FP race manifold
-Venom SMIM
-IRC race IC and my 2.5 - 3" piping
-3.5" Bushnut exhaust
-DSMlink
-1600cc primary injectors, 720cc secondaries(not really needed anymore)
-air
-power steering
-heat and AC
-navigation system
-blah blah

[JET]

Andy, how much power are you shooting for? There are several of us with pretty good sized 2.4 setups on here. I am running an SCM61 on mine and can give you my setup if you want. I made 450 awhp on 25 psi and E85 at the last dyno day. Act quick and I could take you for a ride sometime soon.

[blageo23]

I Just built a 2.4 last winter This is what I used:
2.4l 4G64 block
Wiseco Pistons
Eadle Rods
Main Gridle
ARP Mains
ACL Race Bearings

I used Motors by Gosh. He is a great guy to work with. The crank was out of spec so I had to get it ground down 10 under and re nitride coated. Regrind and recoating cost I think $400 plus I had him assemble the shortblock(I have had BAD experiences assembling engines). All in all I spent $1000 at motors by gosh and another $1000 at MAP for parts.

[TalonFiero]

Like JET said, I also have a 6bolt 2.4 with over 20,000 miles on it. Stock mains here. PTE 3561 17psi on e85, no idea what power but based on a dyno from a couple years ago and my new mods and higher boost I would put it at at least 400+whp on a dynodynamics.

[Andrew7dg]

Originally Posted by JET

Andy, how much power are you shooting for? There are several of us with pretty good sized 2.4 setups on here. I am running an SCM61 on mine and can give you my setup if you want. I made 450 awhp on 25 psi and E85 at the last dyno day. Act quick and I could take you for a ride sometime soon.

You people are a bad influence on me!!! all these high horsepower numbers are just getting me exited. It would be fun to ride in one to see the difference.

Since I just found this on Saturday, I really don't have plans for it yet. If I were to rebuild it, I would go with all forged internals (Eagle/Wiseco) just because then I would have a SOLID base to begin with. After that it is all bolt ons. I would want to keep it streetable and the reason I wanted to go with this engine in the first place is because it can handle a bigger turbo without so much lag time. Also the improve torque!

I don't know what to do with the head. I think that would be a key factor for this engine. I would think making the valves 1mm OS would help the 2.4L breath. I don't think OS valves hurts drive ability at all.

There was another thread on what cams to buy for a 2.4L and then after that I was surprised that Goatblower is running on HKS 272 which I thought would be a smaller cam for this size of engine. Maybe not with the OS valves.

Then after I hit a high HP I need to beef up the transmission, rear end, bigger breaks, Better bolt ons, SMIM, figure out if I can control this thing some how with a computer system (DSM link maybe).

Also I haven't done much research. However everyone is giving really good advise. Nice thing about this site, there are people here that have done this Hybrid and no one is spitting out complete BS on what I should do.

I will look into motors by Josh. Those prices sound really reasonable! Minnesota has a good Mitsubishi support.

[JET]

You can always do the block and not put on the bigger stuff until you can afford it too. The 272's are the minimum cam I would recommend in a 2.4, Steve just had them from his 2.0 and transfered them over. The stock cams would work, they are just going to cost some top end.

I am still on stock intake mani, so that isn't even a must have. I say swap the block when you get it built, find a nice used SCM61 (or a new one), upgrade the fuel system if you haven't and drive it around.

I have 1mm over valves in mine, I am sure they help power a bit, but the stock head flows well. I would leave it stock until you are getting around 400 awhp or so, unless it needs a rebuild anyway. If you get up by fridley at all, give me a yell and I can take you for a spin.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

I had HKS 272s in my car back when I went 10.4 and still had them later when it made 700whp at Elite.

[Goat Blower]

I've had some FP3's sitting on the bench for months, just haven't gotten around to getting better valvesprings so I can put them in.

IMO, the oversize valves aren't really needed, but my goals were high when I started this project, plus I needed new valves anyways.

To upgrade to a 2.4, you really don't need to change anything else, but upgradeitis has a way of rearing it's ugly head. Weekly in my case.