Very Bad Vibration - Page 2

s1ngletracker · 02-06-2014

I think your excessive toe + bad wheel bearing could definitely be causing it. You're putting a side load on the wheel bearing (which has play in it) and you could be seeing an oscillation in the dynamic toe of the wheel. I'd fix those problems before you worry too much about throwing more $$$ and parts at it.

I've used the precision joints and never had problems, nor have they caused my driveshaft to be crazy out of balance.

Notchy U-joints are totally normal (seen it on almost every DSM driveshaft) and shouldn't be causing that much vibration. It'd have to be really damaged and in need of replacement. Can't hurt to change them though, they're pretty cheap.

What it sounds like to me is that you may have borked driveshaft angles. I've never done an AWD swap so i'm not sure how easy it is to mess up, but if you have too severe an angle on one of your U-joints, you can and will get good amounts of vibration. Could also be caused by a really bad carrier. Although at 5mph I wouldn't think the shaft is spinning fast enough to even cause that much vibration.

Are you sure you don't have something rubbing on the bent knuckle, driveshaft rubbing exhaust, etc?

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Yea all the videos and threads about carriers i've seen they get a vibration at like 50mph and under acceleration. I can get nowhere near that speed.

I will look to see if it might be hitting the downpipe.

The driveshaft looks pretty darn straight when it's bolted up and I tried my best to align it exactly where the other bracket that I removed was. But I don't have a tool to measure the angles of it, so I have no real evidence.

b00sted_spyder · 02-06-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark4g63t

Yes I did but it went very smoothly and no issues seemed to pop up. It was pretty straight forward.

I think any u-joint is better than the rear one. I'm going to post a video of it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFu8...ature=youtu.be

Can see it being notchy and kinda "sticky"

Did you do a bearing kit as well on the rear diff? With a new ring a pinion, you should always check your pattern.

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

I did not. What do you mean by "pattern"?

**Goat Blower** · 02-06-2014

Looking at the gear mesh for proper shimming of the gear.

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Idk if this pic helps but this was right before the last cap went on. There was no excess play in the pinion gear when I grabbed it from the flange where it connects to the D.S. And I never touched the lsd part...If that's what you are referring to?

1QUICK4 · 02-06-2014

A lot of times if it's a carrier bearing you would get a knocking noise with the vibration.

I'd pack those bitches in urethane anyways though, check for proper gear mesh and fix the known bad wheel bearing

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Waiting on the new knuckle to change the wheel bearing because I don't want to ruin the good one.

I don't remember hearing a knocking sound but I was also just worried nothing was going to break and focusing on that lol

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Maybe i'll put it all back together tonight and take it for another test drive and video it to see if I can locate anything suspicious.

b00sted_spyder · 02-06-2014

Yeah with a new ring and pinion, you will most likely have to re-shim the pinion or differential carrier. Without the proper pattern, you can get vibration and can cause a lot of damage to the differential carrier.

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Any way to test or tell if it will need to be re-shimmed?

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Heres the positive camber and toe issue. Toe isn't as far out as I remember but is still definitely positive.

b00sted_spyder · 02-06-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark4g63t

Any way to test or tell if it will need to be re-shimmed?

Pull out the cover, mark like 5-8 teeth with some gear marking compound, and turn the pinion until you can see the pattern on the ring. You will want to spin it both ways. The rear end has to be able to spin so it would be easier if the driveshaft and axles weren't in it. Otherwise I think you should be able to spin it with all 4 wheels in the air in neutral.

That camber issues looks pretty bad. I would definitely fix that asap as well.

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Driveshaft is already out. Would it be easiest just to pull the diff?
Or I can just drop the whole rear end again

Mark the teeth of the ring gear?

b00sted_spyder · 02-06-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark4g63t

Driveshaft is already out. Would it be easiest just to pull the diff?
Or I can just drop the whole rear end again

Mark the teeth of the ring gear?

Leave the differential in it. It has to be bolted up to how it would be setup. I've never been underneath an awd dsm so I don't know how tight the space is. But if you can't get the cover off, you will have to drop the rear end off.
Yes, mark the teeth of the ring gear. As you turn the pinion, it will make contact with the ring gear and show you the pattern.

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Ok well couldn't find the marking compound at either oreilly or napa.

polishmafia · 02-06-2014

Holy shit, that is some serious positive camber. You know how "stanced" cars only ride on the inside edge of the tire and how dangerous it is? That is basically what you are doing, except riding on the outside edge of the tire.

**Halon** · 02-06-2014

Holy shit @ that pic. Doesn't take an alignment machine to tell you how far out of whack that is. I'd get that corrected ASAP. I'd be fixing the things I know are wrong, one by one, and go from there.

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Just waiting on getting the knuckle then it's going in ASAP!

mark4g63t · 02-06-2014

Just thought of what it could possibly be!! When I did the ring and pinion gears I never swapped this bearing and spacer over I just used the one already on the pinion gear that I received!

I'm guessing I was supposed to do that!? f me if I was lol