Rebuilding motor, need suggestions

[4seasons69]

Oh ok so you're pretty far away. If you're not going to have any port work done map and cylinder head express will cost about the same but if you're going to have it ported they might be worth looking into. I saved a lot of money going through them vs map. There are pics of my head in my build thread. You can pm if you want specifics on what I paid and what not

[Halon]

Where in Blaine is that shop you speak of?

[4seasons69]

Originally Posted by Halon

Where in Blaine is that shop you speak of?

It's basically right off of highway 10 and 65. It's kind of back by Letterman sports

[Halon]

Ok, back kinda near where elite was too? I heard they were expensive. I use a shop in andover called.Northern Cylinder Head, prices are untouchable. Kinda tin shed feeling place, old dude working there, I love it!

[4seasons69]

Originally Posted by Halon

Ok, back kinda near where elite was too? I heard they were expensive. I use a shop in andover called.Northern Cylinder Head, prices are untouchable. Kinda tin shed feeling place, old dude working there, I love it!

Kind of but I think elite was a little farther north. If you're going north on ten you take a right at the first stop light just north of 10 then the first right you can take and they're just down a little ways on the left.

As for them being expensive maybe if you have them get all the parts. I had to replace the valves I got those from map cause map was like $200 less than if I got them through CHE. For completely rebuilding my head and a complete port and polish they were like 1k less than it would have cost at map.

[tmosser]

So im figuring send block to map for either a rebuild 2.0 or a 2.3

than take my head to either one of the shops you guys are suggesting (to save $) have them tell me what it needs and buy the parts from map.

-MAP beehive springs and retainers
-re use valves (if I can)
-OEM seals
-Re use cosworth m2 (272/272) cams
-Get new MAP head studs or buy new ARP studs
-OEM gaskets

I think I am going to try one of these turbos. I've read a couple reviews on evom many good reviews on it, and I know in the srt 4 community (where I came from) these turbos are a big hit, everyone that runs it loves em so figure ill give it a shot.

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/ki...300ps-4-3.aspx

Just use a turbosmart wga with it.

[4seasons69]

Originally Posted by tmosser

So im figuring send block to map for either a rebuild 2.0 or a 2.3

than take my head to either one of the shops you guys are suggesting (to save $) have them tell me what it needs and buy the parts from map.

-MAP beehive springs and retainers
-re use valves (if I can)
-OEM seals
-Re use cosworth m2 (272/272) cams
-Get new MAP head studs or buy new ARP studs
-OEM gaskets

I think I am going to try one of these turbos. I've read a couple reviews on evom many good reviews on it, and I know in the srt 4 community (where I came from) these turbos are a big hit, everyone that runs it loves em so figure ill give it a shot.
The
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/ki...300ps-4-3.aspx

Just use a turbosmart wga with it.

That sounds like a good plan! I have pics of my head in my build thread if you want to see some of their work

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by asshanson

Quoted for proof.

You forget I can edit and delete anything

Originally Posted by JET

LOL, nice quote. No idea what Hughes was thinking there. Maybe he started drinking already?

Yeah, my mistake, it's a 4G64 crank with 4G63 block.

[tmosser]

Well now Ive read this

http://m.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=461606

Which is what i don't get my car runs fine and doesnt smoke.

I really need to do a leakdown

[4seasons69]

My old talon burned quite a bit of oil but never seemed to smoke that I noticed. I would say maybe double check the compression with a differ gauge just to make sure there's nothing wrong with the gauge. Then try a wet compression test and do a leak down test. The variance between the highest and lowest cylinder is quite a bit. So it still seems like something is not right. Generally you don't want more than a 20% difference between the highest and lowest cylinder

[EVOJ]

2.3 Stroker... Many have done a 2.4 with disastrous results. I'm in the same boat as you paying for an Evo only my motor went BOOM. Currently undergoing a 2.3 stroker with a FP Black E85

[tmosser]

Well thing is car runs fine normal under wot it gets 2/3 counts of knock and now started last night if i go wot it will start popping and cutting. My wideband just took a crap (only reads 20.0) and will occasionally go to 10.0 than right back to 20 stupid glowshift pos.

Will do leakdown this weekend.

[Kracka]

Check your spark plugs and maybe just get a replacement set to go in after your leakdown test. You told me you over-revved, hitting the limiter can cause massive amounts of knock and cylinder pressure damaging a spark plug electrode (happened to me once).

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by EVOJ

2.3 Stroker... Many have done a 2.4 with disastrous results. I'm in the same boat as you paying for an Evo only my motor went BOOM. Currently undergoing a 2.3 stroker with a FP Black E85

Really? does this just apply to evo's?
I've never heard this before.

Originally Posted by tmosser

Well thing is car runs fine normal under wot it gets 2/3 counts of knock and now started last night if i go wot it will start popping and cutting. My wideband just took a crap (only reads 20.0) and will occasionally go to 10.0 than right back to 20 stupid glowshift pos.

Will do leakdown this weekend.

I have some widebands available, I'll send a PM now.

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by EVOJ

2.3 Stroker... Many have done a 2.4 with disastrous results. I'm in the same boat as you paying for an Evo only my motor went BOOM. Currently undergoing a 2.3 stroker with a FP Black E85

Yeah, not sure where you're getting this info from. I built a 2.4 for my Evo with no problems at all except getting the wrong freeze plugs initially. I would've preferred to do a 2.3 but MAP did the machine work for me and didn't like the deck surface, so I started fresh and 2.4 blocks are much cheaper than Evo blocks.

Personally, I wouldn't do anything to the cylinder head except the lightest port cleanup, the factory valves, springs and retainers are plenty good for what you're talking about. That's unnecessary spending doing anything to such a good factory head.

[EVOJ]

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

Yeah, not sure where you're getting this info from. I built a 2.4 for my Evo with no problems at all except getting the wrong freeze plugs initially. I would've preferred to do a 2.3 but MAP did the machine work for me and didn't like the deck surface, so I started fresh and 2.4 blocks are much cheaper than Evo blocks.

Personally, I wouldn't do anything to the cylinder head except the lightest port cleanup, the factory valves, springs and retainers are plenty good for what you're talking about. That's unnecessary spending doing anything to such a good factory head.

Thought of doing a 2.4 but heard stories on how it went really bad. For a seasoned vet such as yourself yeah it could work out.

[EVOJ]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Really? does this just apply to evo's?
I've never heard this before.



I have some widebands available, I'll send a PM now.

Dude what??

[evotuner]

Originally Posted by EVOJ

Thought of doing a 2.4 but heard stories on how it went really bad. For a seasoned vet such as yourself yeah it could work out.

Talked with Kyle at MAP yesterday and he said he absolutely loves the 2.4s not an issue at all with them. Everything you read at times has to be taken with a grain of salt

[Shane@DBPerformance]

I prefer the 2.3l on the Evos, I have had plenty of basket case 2.4l Evos in here for tuning.

[Kracka]

I know when Andrew and I were researching how to build his IX we decided the 2.3L was the better route to take, especially for the IX w/MIVEC. Retaining the stock block really simplifies things.