Rebuilding motor, need suggestions

[tmosser]

Well this will be my first motor rebuilt/build So I am seeing what everyone thinks, and can suggest to help me out. I am going to take everything out with the help of a good friend. (not my first motor removal nor his, as he is a ase certified mechanic and owns a build 2.6L srt4) anyways so I dont get asked if I ever worked on a car. lol. Heres what Im thinking after searching around and talking to a couple guys.

I am going to just rebuild the head and block since they have 115k on them.

thinking this for the bottom end

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...build-Kit.html

And do this as well

http://www.maperformance.com/ams-4g6...l#.UPbv6_JUok0

Or just send my block to map and do this

http://www.maperformance.com/maperfo...l#.UPbwLPJUok0

Just trying to keep price down, yet dont want so skimp on anything Im doing it right once so it dont have to happen again.

What pistons should I go with standard or .020 over? Or would that be something the machine shop has to figure out depending on my sleeves?

I wanted to do a 2.4L stroker but Nate at map thinks just re building the 2.0 would be best since it would last longer and just do 9.0.1 pistons would help spin it faster. Thoughts?

That kit has pretty much everything for the bottom end, Would I need to resurface the crank? Its fine right now, cars just running on low compression. Didnt even bother on doing a leak down since I want to just rebuild both top and bottom end.

What would you guys suggest for a head? I will re-use my cosworth m2 cams, and ARP head studs. IDK if I will bother porting it, I only want to make whatever I can with current mods on Shane's dyno. Hopeing close to 400. But I want something that would handle 450/500 hp no problem if I ever decide to upgrade the turbo. I really couldnt find anything on a DIY head rebuild so maybe just say F it and send it to map for new valves, springs, kiggly HLA, seals etc and assemble it with cams and such. So I can get it and bolt her on the block.

[Kracka]

My best advice is to do everything through one shop so they're responsible for everything. MAP puts together nice blocks and heads. For what you're looking for, you should be just fine with a 9.0:1 MAP Stage 1 2.0L and a head rebuild with some mild porting. Your current valves can most likely be reused unless they're damaged, but they'll replace the guides and seats with the rebuild. While they're in there also get some upgrade beehive springs. MAP will worry about the overbore and crank; depending on the condition of your core they'll machine appropriately. Do NOT reuse your ARP headstuds, despite what you've heard they are once time use only and you do risk failure by reusing.

Check out this build thread for an almost entirely MAP setup I'm currently working on:
http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/sho...=29098&page=12

[goodhart]

Why do you need a built motor on a stock turbo car? You can make plenty more power safely on the stock motor. Save your money

[Kracka]

His compression numbers are low, from the PM with him sounds like he just wants to freshen things up.

[C3L1CA]

Couldn't he freshen up the stock motor though if he isn't looking for crazy power? New rings/ get the head looked at, maybe honed and some new bearings would be a lot cheaper than a full build.

I'm also kind of confused on how a stroker motor wouldn't last as long as a 2.0. Could anybody explain that one to me?

[goodhart]

Ah, that makes sense then.

Tyler, out of curiosity, what are your compression numbers?

Honestly, if you wanted more displacement, I would go with a 2.3 vs a 2.4 on an Evo. The head gasket options just kind of suck with 2.4's and they seem to have a hard time keeping head gaskets in them without o-ringing the block. Just seems like much less of a headache.

[tmosser]

130-110-85-110

I will probably eventually upgrade the turbo later on which is why i want something that would be fine for either stock and possible stock frame upgrade (ef2 or fp green)

Im not looking on sending a ton just want a fresh motor and freshen everything up so i don't have to worry. I honestly don't care on power i just want something to take autoX days and dragging at pg2013

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by C3L1CA

I'm also kind of confused on how a stroker motor wouldn't last as long as a 2.0. Could anybody explain that one to me?

I would have to imagine it has to do with rod ratios and piston speed.

Originally Posted by goodhart

Honestly, if you wanted more displacement, I would go with a 2.3 vs a 2.4 on an Evo.

I agree. If you do want more displacement, the 2.3 seems to make more sense than the 2.4 since it retains the OEM block, crank, and MIVEC oiling system for IX's.

[Super Bleeder!!]

I have a nicely built 2.4 with a nice turbo setup i would be willing to part with for the right amount of coin.

[goodhart]

This is an Evo IX, not a dsm.

[tmosser]

No I dont *need* a stroker just thought it'd be cool and always have the set up if I wanted to further upgrade. But I am thinking just rebuild the 2.0 either that ams kit because its somewhat cheaper than maps 2.0 stage 1. But if a stroker does come into play, it will be a 2.3 I didnt know that all had to be tinkered just to do it.

Other misc things I am going to do while motors out,

Send trans and t case to map (jacks) to get freshened up just a basic rebuild nothing too serious

Rebuild my twin disc

Do rear diff mod and if it needs em replace the discs

DIY coil on plug set up

Ported exhaust manifold and ceramic coat it


But I do think I will just send long block to map since I can just do financing since I will only have ~$3/5K to play with come taxes and that'll have to also buy me a civic DD I want. Really sucks, I didnt think this was going to happen but creeping on chuckee's evom profile found a thread he had about it running lower compression so that made me do the test and surprise still has low(well now lower) compression.

Thought about selling the car, but ive wanted a WW IX SSL for way to long to just sell it, also thinking about just letting it sit in storage till its paid off than do everything (hate building up a car that isnt paid off) than rebuilding it. Which is still a option.. I guess we will see when taxes come what I wanna do. Thanks to a new much better paying job paying the build/loan payments shouldnt be bad. But Fuuuu I never could see myself paying payments or using credit to build a car lol.

[Kracka]

The DIY kit may be cheaper, but remember you would still have to pay for machining, DIY assembly, and not have a warranty on any of it.

[tmosser]

DIY assembly would be practically free since me and a friend would do it, but that is true I would have to pay for machining and there wouldnt be any sort of warranty.

and I have learned warranty's are worth the extra $

[Halon]

I'd personally spend a little more for the added displacement of a 2.3 or 2.4.

[JET]

Originally Posted by Halon

I'd personally spend a little more for the added displacement of a 2.3 or 2.4.

Agreed, the only extra cost would be the crank since you are doing rods and pistons anyway.

[Kracka]

2.3L retains the stock 4G63 crank.

[asshanson]

Originally Posted by Kracka

2.3L retains the stock 4G63 crank.

Quoted for proof.

I think you meant to say they use the stock block, but obviously you need a different crank for the .3 extra displacement via longer stroke. Can't overbore that much.

[JET]

Originally Posted by asshanson

Quoted for proof.

I think you meant to say they use the stock block, but obviously you need a different crank for the .3 extra displacement via longer stroke. Can't overbore that much.

LOL, nice quote. No idea what Hughes was thinking there. Maybe he started drinking already?

[4seasons69]

I know the pain of building a car you're still paying on lol. I'm in the same boat. I would definitely recommend just having map do your shortblock. They did a great job with mine. If you're in mn and not dead set on having one shop do both the head and engine I would recommend at least looking into cylinder head express in blaine. They have done a lot of 4g63 stuff including stuff for Rau. I have had them do a couple heads for me and both have been top notch. They will be cheaper than map especially if you have any port work done and their turn around time will probably be considerably less too.

[tmosser]

Yes Im like 45 miles S of mankato. I figured if i had map do the motor id drive there drop it off and go pick it up to avoid shipping costs.

Just gotta figured everything out figure what i should do before i pull the trigger.

Thanks everyone for suggestions i really appreciate it.

Now either map s1 or 2.3 stoker. Or leave the bish in the garage untill its paid off. Kinda, Im still dding it till i get a dd car.