MitsuStyle MitsuStyle

Go Back   MitsuStyle > The Homefront! > Project Talk

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-22-2016   #101
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

No, that wont happen until either the first or last weekend of spring break since I need my Dad to borrow a welder from work.

I didn't do it yet because I needed the front suspension changed so I can play with the ride height.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016   #102
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

The second side came apart just as easy as the first.

Here is the machined spacer to make the offset of the rotor correct. IIRC they are the same rotors for a 300zx.



Some comparisons.

Stock caliper vs the Toyota ones:





Second side complete:



On the ground. I think it will probably sit about where it is for final ride height. I can always drop it down for the "MOAR LOW" if I for some reason feel the need to wear a flat bill and try to look cool.

This leaves me with about 2-3" of bump travel before getting into the bump stop, and about as much droop. These cars have a surprising amount of wheel travel.



bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016   #103
niterydr
back in the saddle again
 
niterydr's Avatar
Re: My "new" car/project.

Project is coming along!!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kracka View Post
One thing this site has taught me is that the older, more beat up your car is, and the less you drive it, the more elite you become.
niterydr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2016   #104
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

I've had an engine apart before exactly one time, when I was 18 and in High school. Mostly, it was a family friend that did the work while I sort of tried to learn what was going on.

I have it written down somewhere, but, the iron heads that were on it were a 70cc chamber with small valves.

The Cam was a copy of one of the early performance cams that came from GM.

It was topped with an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake that I guess they only sold in the late 70's.

With help from Weggy, it wasn't that bad to pull out and only took maybe an hour since I pretty much had everything already disconnected.



The Datsun has a surprising amount of room for the engine/trans. It's just too bad that the steering shaft is in a weird spot. It basically ensures that no long tube headers will fit, short of a custom set. There was once a specific set make by Hooker that is NLA.


Soaked with degreaser:

I ended up with a Comp XE284H, Victor Jr, and Promaxx heads.

The castings for the heads look nice.







Pile of Comp stuff with a bottle brush hone and new rings.




After running the bottle brush hone through it. There was no carbon ring at the top of the bores and there was still a very faint crosshatch from whenever this thing was apart before.

It was already .040 over.

After running the hone through:



The bearings looked ok, so I just put it back together with the same ones in it. Once I had it back together it sat at ~35psi of oil pressure at warm idle@900-1000rpm with 30wt break in oil.

I guess the Streetmaster was the first single plane designed by Edelbrock, so I took a picture of it next to the Vic Jr.



I copper spray'd steel shim gaskets for the heads when I put it back together. I didn't actually CC the pistons(flat tops w/valve reliefs) at TDC(.026 in the hole) or the chambers, but, by math it should be just 10.2:1. When I plugged in the cam, to a calculator it gave me just under 7.8:1 for DCR.



It ended up not being worth the wait time/cost of the tool, but, I did actually buy a pushrod length checker. It's like a regular pushrod, but, you can adjust it's length. You color the valve stem tips with sharpie and put on the rocker arm/lifter/pushrod and turn it over by hand, you want the witness mark to be in the middle 1/3 of the valve stem.




A 3500 stall converter went between the motor and trans when I put it back together.

It actually slid right back into place so easily that I had it bolted up alone before my Dad got home to help me.



Now, everything was fine and dandy and I was going to fire it up the next morning, which was a Sunday. Until I found this in the HEI. Noticed when I went to swap the 4/7 plug wires since the comp cam changes the firing order.






I put about 5000 miles on the car last summer, including driving it back to MN from VA. I never noticed an issue or any misfires.

I just bought the summit HEI rebuild kit.

It was so loud in the garage, my phone didn't like it. I threw the cast ram-horns back on, with some cheap ass glass packs shoved onto where I sawzall'd the old exhaust off. I figured it might help not piss off the neighbors too bad, since I live in a cul-de-sac.

It fired right up and per comp and the internet I kept it at 2000-2500 rpm for about 30 minutes to wear the lifters into the cam. I did get a pre-luber and used that first, before then throwing the HEI in and starting it.

The video is after that was finished with.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BK_PCRBU2RE&hd=1

There were no rogue noises from the motor at all, which left me quite pleased with myself. I still need to figure out what to do about headers. The cast manifolds will not be staying.

I know I should have changed the oil right away, but, I didn't think that through to have oil or a new filter on hand. I intend to cut the filter that was on there apart to inspect it.

I don't have the fuel cell installed yet so I just ran some hose into a fuel jug.

Lastly for this round of stuff, I got the shifter mounted. It had some B&M thing in it before, that had no neutral lockout or gear indicator.

I had bought the cheap ratchet from Amazon and got shipped the Stealth, which they told me to just keep.



The console is honestly pretty fugly. I'm thinking about buying a small sheet of carbon fiber to use as a trim panel to cover up the hole to make it look better. But, that has nothing to do with the function of the car so it can wait. I still need to take the cover back off of it to hookup the neutral safety and reverse light switches.

The next project is probably mounting the fuel cell.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2016   #105
Kracka
R U DTF bro?
 
Kracka's Avatar
 

Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Watertown, SD
Drives: GheyRay
Posts: 20,502
Send a message via AIM to Kracka
Re: My "new" car/project.

Work faster!!!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26 View Post
I agree with Kracka.
Kracka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2016   #106
goodhart
One wheel wonder
 
goodhart's Avatar
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cambridge
Drives: FWD 91 TSi, RWD G35
Posts: 7,137
Send a message via MSN to goodhart
Re: My "new" car/project.

What else is needed to make it road worthy?
__________________



Quote:
Originally Posted by scheides View Post
I swing from the nuts of cold hard data. Anything less is a guess.
goodhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2016   #107
93gtpeater
 

Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: stillwater
Drives: cbr 1000rr repsol
Posts: 1,450
Re: My "new" car/project.

How the hell was the ls swap not cheaper then rebuilding that motor? Lol. Should be a nice setup for a year or 2. Motor should make good power with those heads and cam. Good work. Can't wait to see this thing in person.
93gtpeater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2016   #108
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodhart View Post
What else is needed to make it road worthy?
Exhaust, driveshaft, install the fuel cell and flares.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93gtpeater View Post
How the hell was the ls swap not cheaper then rebuilding that motor? Lol. Should be a nice setup for a year or 2. Motor should make good power with those heads and cam. Good work. Can't wait to see this thing in person.
It was less than half as much, and should keep me happy for a couple years.

Which will give me time to pick up a motor and have it setup for full-retard power.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2016   #109
Goat Blower
aka Goodbye
 
Goat Blower's Avatar
 
Asteroids Champion! Beach Squirter Champion!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: under the car
Drives: Taylor Made R15
Posts: 7,746
Re: My "new" car/project.

Wow, awesome progress! Those wheels and tires make the car. Love all the mods so far, this thing is going to be sweet.
__________________
2009 Corvette Z51-SOLD
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX-SOLD
Goat Blower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2016   #110
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

I've been super busy trying to get the car done, and have neglected all of the build threads I have.

I have been taking pictures along the way, however, they were on my old phone, which I dumped to a thumb drive before getting a new one. Now I'm not sure where that thumb drive is.

Anyway, I finished the headers, exhaust, and fuel cell.

I started with some cheap off the shelf headers for a camaro I think and had to modify them to fit. I ended up buying a box of 1-3/4" bends and going to town. I had to change one primary on the passenger side and three on the driver side to clear a suspension mount and the steering shaft. The steering shaft actually passes through the header.

The exhaust I made, too.

It has two 3.5" dynomax bullet mufflers on the header collectors, mostly to act as a collector extension and partially to try and drop a little noise.

Then it reduces down to 2.5", goes through an X-pipe, and ends up going through two 2.5" summit turbo mufflers.

Based on what I can find, 2.5" is more than enough for the power it will make.

I bought a set of universal ceramic boot plug wires since three of them are very close to the headers, I cut those to length and got that job done today as well.

I had it running today for the first time with a full exhaust and the first time with fuel in the fuel cell instead of just running a hose to a gas can.

It's a 16gal RCI fuel cell. I ran -8AN line through a filter and up to the mechanical fuel pump on the motor. Eventually, this should become the return line when I have a boosted LS motor in the thing.

I cut out the floor/spare tire well in the back and made a frame out of 1" square tube that the straps hang from to secure it.

I made a template for the floor and I should have that cut out for me by the weekend, I'm also having a box made to cover the top of the cell with an access panel to fill the thing. This will keep the fuel totally outside of the passenger compartment.


When I find the pictures I'll upload and post them.

For now anyway:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt51yYDZl_o&hd=1


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7B0AQlLxA28&hd=1

Last edited by bramagedained; 05-24-2016 at 11:43 PM..
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2016   #111
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

Stuff left to do:

Acquire and weld in the sheet metal to complete the rear floor then put the interior panels back in.

Get a drive shaft.

Tidy up/complete misc wiring that I left long until everything else was done.

Bleed brakes and possibly adjust the booster->MC pushrod.

Alignment

Cut out and patch the rust spots on the driver's floor.

Figure out why the switch in the shifter for the reverse light is staying closed(so the lights are constantly on). The neutral safety works as expected.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2016   #112
A//// Guy
 
A//// Guy's Avatar
 
Bloody Seal Bounce Champion!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: South Burbs
Drives: Slowly
Posts: 9,863
Re: My "new" car/project.

Good progress!
A//// Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2016   #113
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

I got the sheet metal and the box for the rear floor/fuel cell cover and borrowed the rivet nut tool for the weekend, so I'll have that all knocked out in the next couple of days.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016   #114
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

I'm really shit at keeping with the updates it seems. I'll have pictures up later tonight. I had a driveshaft made on Friday. Was ~$280 with tax from Proven Force. That was the last missing piece to take it for a drive.

It's getting close.

My to-do list:

Check all new fitting connections. Fuel/trans/brakes/coolant.

Set preload on front wheel bearings-Need to buy cotter pins.

Bleed Brakes.

Adjust Booster->MC pushrod.

Re-Install exhaust.

Wrap up wiring. Dome light and +12v to cigarette lighter for cell charger.

Sand the seam sealer on rear fender arches and paint bare metal.

Modify carb. -Remove and drill two holes in butterflies for idle.

Set timing. I need to buy a timing tape for the damper.

Mount battery box.

Make access hatch for fuel cell. I have sheetmetal and piano hinge.

Alignment.

Proceed to coat quarter panels with rubber.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2016   #115
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bramagedained View Post

It's getting close.

My to-do list:

Check all new fitting connections. Fuel/trans/brakes/coolant. -Done


Set preload on front wheel bearings-Need to buy cotter pins.
-Done

Bleed Brakes.

Adjust Booster->MC pushrod. -Done

Re-Install exhaust.
-Done

Wrap up wiring. Dome light and +12v to cigarette lighter for cell charger.
-I keep forgetting to buy the damn lightbulb itself.

Sand the seam sealer on rear fender arches and paint bare metal.
-This isn't actually critical.

Modify carb. -Remove and drill two holes in butterflies for idle.
-Done

Set timing. I need to buy a timing tape for the damper. -Done

Mount battery box.
-This will take some figuring out to find a spot that I can actually get to the bottom. The easy spot is on the driver's side which isn't ideal. Or, I can use nutserts and put it wherever, but, I don't know how hard those actually are to rip out of sheet metal.

Make access hatch for fuel cell. I have sheetmetal and piano hinge. -Done

Alignment. Done with a tape measure, should make it driveable for a test anyway.
-Done(kinda)

Proceed to coat quarter panels with rubber.
Test drive is a socket for the axle nuts and brake bleeding away.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016   #116
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

I've put about 350-400 miles on the car. I made it to the July Cars and Coffee with the car.

Bleeding the brakes didn't go well as Wilwood did a shitty job machining the spacer between the two halves of one of them. I disassembled the caliper and corrected it.

I will need to eventually install the proportioning valve that I have to add some bias to the rear. Really, it will just replace the OEM one that I left on there to see what would happen. The way OEM is set up doesn't seem to throw enough pressure at the rear. It is designed around small disk brakes in the front and drums in the rear afterall.

Even without fixing that, it definitely stops way better than it did before.

I should probably take it some where for a real alignment, right now it is done with a tape measure and a level. In doing so, I didn't have the steering wheel completely straight which is somewhat annoying. I can let go of the wheel and it will track straight, it's just turned slightly right of center.

On a warm day(above 85 or so) it was getting hot. A tad above 210 even with the heater on.

I bought an aluminum radiator to replace the stock 42 year old one which showed up on Thursday. However, I've still not been able to test it. I was having issues getting the water neck to seal which was all pitted from either shitty casting or just being old.

A new one will show up on Sunday.

The fan shroud is now sealed to the radiator and the radiator to the core support. I've also blocked all the random holes in the core support so all the air from the front of the car is forced through the radiator.

I changed out the wiring for the electric fans to a heavier gauge as well, what was there seemed a bit light considering it needs to carry 20-30 amps for the fan.

I'm sure at least part of the problem is that the headers give off a ton of heat, which I'm not really going to do anything about this summer. They will likely be sent off to be ceramic coated this coming winter.

I made a bracket today so I could hook the kickdown cable for the trans back up to the carb. In doing so I found that the throttle cable wasn't adjusted properly. Pedal to the floor didn't actually translate to WOT at the carb, I'd guess it was 20-25% short. Even like that, it goes pretty good.

It seems to be happy with how the timing is set, and the curve from the parts I had for the distributor. Carb tuning needs to happen as well, but, it pulls clean to 6k in any gear. I'm going to convert the secondary side of the carb to jets, then I'd like to head out to a track and make passes and play with jetting. I don't know how much BIR lets things slide on Wednesday nights as far as being NHRA legal goes, as some things right now are not and/or wont be changed until next winter.

Hopefully on Sunday I can go for a drive and see if the changes paid off for cooling.

Last edited by bramagedained; 07-08-2016 at 08:52 PM..
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2016   #117
goodhart
One wheel wonder
 
goodhart's Avatar
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cambridge
Drives: FWD 91 TSi, RWD G35
Posts: 7,137
Send a message via MSN to goodhart
Re: My "new" car/project.

Wed night tech is pretty loose unless it's a relocated battery. It must have the vented box/shutoff and all that. That's the only thing I ever really seen them enforce.
__________________



Quote:
Originally Posted by scheides View Post
I swing from the nuts of cold hard data. Anything less is a guess.
goodhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016   #118
bramagedained
 
bramagedained's Avatar
 

Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodhart View Post
Wed night tech is pretty loose unless it's a relocated battery. It must have the vented box/shutoff and all that. That's the only thing I ever really seen them enforce.
Welp so much for that then.
bramagedained is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016   #119
goodhart
One wheel wonder
 
goodhart's Avatar
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cambridge
Drives: FWD 91 TSi, RWD G35
Posts: 7,137
Send a message via MSN to goodhart
Re: My "new" car/project.

Why? What's the current battery situation?
__________________



Quote:
Originally Posted by scheides View Post
I swing from the nuts of cold hard data. Anything less is a guess.
goodhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2016   #120
MorningWood
 

Join Date: May 2011
Location: Maple Grove
Drives: Evo 8, 2014 Silverado
Posts: 224
Re: My "new" car/project.

My friends cobra had theirs mounted in the back. No cutoff just a vented box and they light him run it
MorningWood is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.