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Old 12-24-2015   #53
bramagedained
 
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: KY/MN/Afghanistan
Drives: EVO IX SSL
Posts: 413
Re: My "new" car/project.

Teardown.

There is surprisingly few fasteners that hold everything for the rear end together.

It all came apart without needing to be clever, to my amazement. Presumably the last time all this came apart is when the car was first assembled in Japan.

Old stuff, it turned out I didn't need to take the drum off, but, it made for a better before/after picture anyway:



Brake line on both sides, I did have to use a vice grip on the Driver's side as even with a proper flare fitting wrench it rounded off:



Parking brake cable. The car will no longer have a parking brake, which is sort of unfortunate, but, it will always be an auto anyway:



Exhaust came out partially by sawzall. Whether I get to an LS swap this winter or not, the exhaust was going to be changed either way. The quality of what was in there is a bit lacking(to put it lightly):



Yes, that is RTV and some of the most booger'd welds I've seen.


At this point I had two jacks holding up the subframe+diff.

One of these on either side holds the mustache bar/diff up into the car at the rear:



These two bolts on either side hold what I will call the rear of the sub-frame up into the car:



These on both sides hold the front of the subframe/front diff mount:



Now the only thing still attached to the car are the struts. I used some 4' zipties to hold the struts to the control arms so that they wouldn't flop out when they dropped free of the car;



Out of the car it came:



I honestly expected it to be a hassle to get the driveshaft off of the diff, so I just let it drop out of the trans onto a cardboard box. I need to get a new driveshaft made somewhere anyway.

There was 4 more bolts that secured the control arms to the rear part of the subframe that I forgot to take pictures of. The control arms, rear of the subframe, and strut tops are the only pieces re-used.

The control arms are held to the upright with a big pin. This pin is notoriously difficult to remove as it is not greased and pinned to not move in the upright, so it seizes together. I probably could have got it free, but, since I'm not reusing the upright nor the pins I just cut them apart with a porta-band.



The strut tops need to be slightly modified. OEM they're made to key onto the top of the damper cartridge and the hole needs to be made round for the Koni ones:




Last edited by bramagedained; 12-24-2015 at 06:03 PM..
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