I now have 6 pages of notes on which wires connect to which Datsun thing.
It was cheap enough that I ordered a 2W 10K Ohm pot from amazon which is shipping along with a distribution block that I'm going to use to split off the ground/power for all the gauges. They should both be here tomorrow.
My goal is to have the car wired to the point that I can start it and check light functions by Sunday night. I'm not cutting wires or permanently attaching them, yet. I'm still planning on just using wire nuts at all the connections to test.
Once everything checks out, I'll take it all apart, fish the wires through the body and cut to length/solder all the connections.
My wheels and tires came in yesterday and today I threw them on the car.
It looks weird but they are both 17's:
255/40 Front and 275/40 Rear.
Old vs New(front):
I didn't take a picture of the old tires vs the 275s in the rear.
Stockers on the front:
New:
They don't actually stick out much, but, they do hit the front of the opening without being turned much. This gets cut out when flares go on:
That's due to both the new tires being a slightly bigger overall diameter and a change to the scrub radius because of the negative offset. -10mm vs +6mm
The rear sticks out quite a bit more than the front:
Farther away showing both:
Ignore the positive camber. It's adjustable to -2° or so at the upright before I would have to weld in camber plates. When I put the suspension back together I just bolted it up without checking where it was or even making sure it was even side to side. I'll probably pick up a set of adjustable control arms so that I can adjust toe, which is currently fixed.
The rear is actual coilovers and I can adjust ride height. I don't actually plan on lowering it much, if at all. Much lower and the exhaust would hit all speed bumps instead of just some of them. Function>Form.
I need to get under it and actually check, but, the fronts do clear the stock diameter springs, which was a concern of mine. It's by very little, the tire doesn't rub, but, I can't fit my finger between the tire and the spring either.
I can go the cheap route of buying a set of Chevette(lol.) springs and just cutting down to the correct length if the tires stay clear of them. Thy are like $40 a pair, so even if it doesn't work out when things are loaded when cornering it's not a big loss. Otherwise I might try some small(5mm or so) spacers up front.
The more labor and/or expensive option is to either convert the front to coilovers or buy a drop in set. Drop in is ~$900 and to convert is ~$600 in parts and a full weekend of labor.
Either way, I'm not messing with the fender flares or front suspension/brakes at all until the wiring is done.
On another note, poking around the RHDJapan website where I will probably get the flares from they sell front fenders, hood, rear hatch, doors, and rear quarters all in FRP. They also sell acrylic windows to go with all that if for some reason I decide on full BECAUSERACECAR and need it as light as possible. Those along with the carbon fiber console/dash/door panels the guy in NY makes I could have a lightweight car that still looks like a full body/full interior.