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Pushit2.0 · 11-22-2014

I have my race motor and backup motor hardblocked. I use the Hardblock brand and my backup motor is a partial fill, half way up the main water pump hole. My race motor only has 1" of water at the top. The big pain with filling a block past the top of the main water pump hole is getting water to flow again, takes 3 hours of porting. The main thing with the 4g63 is the 5.5" of unsuported cylinder wall. I had a cylinder wall crack on me in 2010, not fun. The hard block will add to your oil temps, so run good oil or have a good oil cooler on the car and oil temp gauge, anything below 200 for synthetic oil is fine. And run your piston to wall clearance loose, I set my race motor at .006", my back up motor after 7000 street miles at 250hp showed some cylinder wall scuffing so the piston to wall was a little tight for a partial fill, water temps for booth motors, back up and race motor stay around 185-190 driving down the road. Then in 2011 I did a new motor and CP pistons Carrillo rods and a 3/4 fill on my block and switched to E98 fuel, we saw a lot less knock noise and at similar boost levels E85 no hard block, to E98 and a 3/4 fill we made 70 more whp at DB uncorrected, so from 650 in 2010 to 720 in 2011. We were able to add a lot of timing and knock noise stayed low and power just went up, up, up.

For the best results have the block cleaned, then block off the water pump holes and acid etch the block (inside the water jacket), install your main studs and torque to spec, then with the water pump blocked off level the block on a bench, then mix your hard block and start to fill, measure your depth with a screw driver or piece of welding rod, then once you are happy with the level use a air hammer on the side of the block and hammer the sides of the block to work out the air bubbles, then put your torque plate on with a similar gasket and studs you will use for machine work and final assembly.

Let the block setup for atleast 24hours then port out the water pump main hole to allow full flow again, then bring to John Gosh for machine work.

~John

11-22-2014	#13
Pushit2.0 15min late to the world 12 Babes of Christmas Champion! 3D Championship Golf Champion! Drag Race Champion! Drifting Champion! Duck Hunter Champion! Street Racer Champion! Tire Toss Champion! Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: getting a monster Drives: a moon taxi Posts: 3,692	Re: 1/2 Filled block & Block machining I have my race motor and backup motor hardblocked. I use the Hardblock brand and my backup motor is a partial fill, half way up the main water pump hole. My race motor only has 1" of water at the top. The big pain with filling a block past the top of the main water pump hole is getting water to flow again, takes 3 hours of porting. The main thing with the 4g63 is the 5.5" of unsuported cylinder wall. I had a cylinder wall crack on me in 2010, not fun. The hard block will add to your oil temps, so run good oil or have a good oil cooler on the car and oil temp gauge, anything below 200 for synthetic oil is fine. And run your piston to wall clearance loose, I set my race motor at .006", my back up motor after 7000 street miles at 250hp showed some cylinder wall scuffing so the piston to wall was a little tight for a partial fill, water temps for booth motors, back up and race motor stay around 185-190 driving down the road. Then in 2011 I did a new motor and CP pistons Carrillo rods and a 3/4 fill on my block and switched to E98 fuel, we saw a lot less knock noise and at similar boost levels E85 no hard block, to E98 and a 3/4 fill we made 70 more whp at DB uncorrected, so from 650 in 2010 to 720 in 2011. We were able to add a lot of timing and knock noise stayed low and power just went up, up, up. For the best results have the block cleaned, then block off the water pump holes and acid etch the block (inside the water jacket), install your main studs and torque to spec, then with the water pump blocked off level the block on a bench, then mix your hard block and start to fill, measure your depth with a screw driver or piece of welding rod, then once you are happy with the level use a air hammer on the side of the block and hammer the sides of the block to work out the air bubbles, then put your torque plate on with a similar gasket and studs you will use for machine work and final assembly. Let the block setup for atleast 24hours then port out the water pump main hole to allow full flow again, then bring to John Gosh for machine work. ~John __________________ Moon taxi: 9.45@156.9 mph 41psi 2011... Letting people down sense 2012. Last edited by Pushit2.0; 11-22-2014 at 04:54 PM..