Re: Timing Belt installation HELP needed
Hi Craig and all else-
My mechanic friend and I installed the t-belt this morning. It went pretty well. I have a couple basic questions that i need everyones blessings on before i get to the point of starting it up.
I used the, put the tensioner in the vise and slowly compressing it and then putting a pin in, method. We aligned all the timing marks, cams, cranshaft, oil pump and then put the belt on. I stayed on the bottom holding the belt and oil sprocket in place while he put it on the cam gears. The book and vfaq state that you use a spanner type tool in the 2 little holes on the tensioner pulling and go counter-clockwise till you get 2.5 ft lbs. We used what we had and just figured roughly 2.5 lbs. He held it in place while i tightened the center bolt of the tensioner pulley to 35 ft lbs. We rotated the engine a couple times and then pulled the pin. The belt has good tension on it, not too tight not too lose. I stuck a tape measure between the two cam gears and i get approx. 1/4"-5/16" of up or down movement in the belt. I believe thats about what it was before i took it all apart.
My question: Will or are the two holes supposed to be at 11 and 1 o'clock EVERY time? I'm not questioning your authority, I'm just trying to get some closure here. My two holes are at roughly 3 and 5 o'clock. We tried and we could not whatsoever get the pulley to go to 11 and 1(not by staying in the 2.5 ft lbs rule anyway). We would of had to of wrenched extremely hard on the belt tighter than a banjo to do so. Is the 3 and 5 o'clock ok? Oh- i also did the drill bit trick to measure the distance between the top of the auto-tensioner and the tensioner arm and it's almost exactly .18, in which the book calls for .15 - .18. If we would have wrenched any more on that pulley to get it to 11 and 1 would have meant the .18 would have increased to an out of spec number. I rotated the crankshaft and after 6 full turns all the timing marks line up perfectly.
Thanks for any help here on this.
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