MitsuStyle - View Single Post

Onefast99gsx · 04-27-2005

Ok- just to clarify i brought my sheet in with me.

[3] a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
b. If cylinder head studs protrude in blind hole, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or 30wt motor oil.
c. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY".
Note: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCKTITE SETTING UP.

PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS:
[A] Torque valvues are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufactures torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or 85ft lbs. with 30wt motor oil.
[B] Due to the expansion rateof aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER)

So.... JET is right about the Loctite. It "IS" an option. Our studs protrude into a blind hole. It's an oil hole but the thread hole itself is a blind hole. There is nothing wrong with using MOLY LUB on the lower threads. READ the directions.

The only part i'm confused about is where the 90 to 110 ft comes in. I don't understand where that comes into play. I read nothing about them torque specs. Is that something that one guy tried, then another, and another or what? Let's say you are at 75 ft lbs. and that is 75% of the fasteners yield strength. So if you were at 100ft lbs, you'd be at a 100% strength. So isn't that getting close to where the bolt would 'snap'?

04-27-2005	#34
Onefast99gsx Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 1,411	Re: ARP Head bolt install help needed. Ok- just to clarify i brought my sheet in with me. [3] a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER. b. If cylinder head studs protrude in blind hole, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or 30wt motor oil. c. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY". Note: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCKTITE SETTING UP. PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS: [A] Torque valvues are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufactures torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or 85ft lbs. with 30wt motor oil. [B] Due to the expansion rateof aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) So.... JET is right about the Loctite. It "IS" an option. Our studs protrude into a blind hole. It's an oil hole but the thread hole itself is a blind hole. There is nothing wrong with using MOLY LUB on the lower threads. READ the directions. The only part i'm confused about is where the 90 to 110 ft comes in. I don't understand where that comes into play. I read nothing about them torque specs. Is that something that one guy tried, then another, and another or what? Let's say you are at 75 ft lbs. and that is 75% of the fasteners yield strength. So if you were at 100ft lbs, you'd be at a 100% strength. So isn't that getting close to where the bolt would 'snap'?