[Raptor]

I will throw my opinion in here, take it for what you want. I don't lock tite them in and have never had one back out. We are talking specifically about the 4G63 here so the water jacket sealing doesn't matter for this app. I turn them in all the way in after making very sure the hole is clean. I tighten them in the hole as well. There is no reason not to do this, the stud will not crack the block and to maintain the torque spec, the stud should be very secure in the block. The use of locktite at that point is not necessary, it probably won't hurt anything however it will make the studs more difficult to get out and there will be residue in the hole for the next time. The use of moly lube on the threads and nut bottoms was mentioned and should always be done. This BTW is the way most every performance based machine shop I know installs head studs some with over 50 years experience.

As for the torque spec and sequence, if you torque the heads on tighter than necessary with a motor that hasn't been torque plated for that spec, you are making your cylinders more out of round at the top where it matters most. Don't over torque them. We go 100 but only on motors that are done with a torque plate at that spec. Otherwise, the rest get torqued based on what they are 6 bolt, 7 bolt, gasket type etc. As shane mentioned, with certain gaskets, retorque may not be required. I always do at 100 miles, but it isn't always necessary. Depends on the case at hand.

Also I know there are enough "let er buck" type mechanics on here that will say that torque plates are not a big deal and you can torque your studs to rediculous specs and honestly you will probably get away with it. But are you making the power consistantly that you would be if your cylinders were still actually round all other factors equal?