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BriK · 04-23-2014

The car is all back together and ready for the road. I just need to get an oil change and an alignment before I can give it hell.

For alignment, I'm thinking of trying -3.5 front camber, -1.8 rear camber, 1/16" of toe-out in the front, zero toe in the rear; I was at -3.0/ -1.8 and zero toe all around last year. The additional caster from the Vorshlag camber plates will minimize camber gain in corners, so I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with less front camber eventually. I bought some tire marking pens/ crayons and I'll have access to a tire pyrometer so I'll be able to monitor how the tires are responding in addition to going by feel.

I'm going to get the most camber possible from the eccentric bolts, then make up the rest with the camber plates, which should help with caster.

I set the front swaybar bracket to one position stiffer than stock which is 16% stiffer and still uses the stock endlink length (which is 2.75" from center-to-center of each end, BTW). I wanted to and tried to go another position stiffer, which would be 33%, but I couldn't get the endlink into the mounting hole; I justified the softer setting by thinking I didn't really feel like going through the whole process of determining what length the endlink needed to be to reach without preload. We'll see how this feels and go from there.

The "soft-medium" setting I have for the rear swaybar should be 31% stiffer than stock (full soft on the Whiteline is 19% stiffer, medium is 42%, so 31% is the average of the two) so I'm anxious to see how the balance feels.

I set the ride height so the front fender lip is just over 25" from the ground and the rear fender lip is just under 25" from the ground. I tried to set the rear even lower but the adjustment collar was hitting the upper arm at full droop. I never measured but I found that stock height is 26.5" in front and 26" in back, so I'm really close to that same balance/ rake. I also found that some of the last 9's in the European market were slightly lower in the rear at 25.8" which is part of the reason I wanted to go even lower in the rear. I think I'd need to go another full 0.5" lower to clear the rear upper arm, which seems like it'd tuck the rear wheel, so once again we'll see how feels and go from there.

A quick pic with the new wheels and ride height.

04-23-2014	#5
BriK Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Woodbury Drives: GG IX MR SE Posts: 183	Re: BriK’s Driver Mods and Car Mods The car is all back together and ready for the road. I just need to get an oil change and an alignment before I can give it hell. For alignment, I'm thinking of trying -3.5 front camber, -1.8 rear camber, 1/16" of toe-out in the front, zero toe in the rear; I was at -3.0/ -1.8 and zero toe all around last year. The additional caster from the Vorshlag camber plates will minimize camber gain in corners, so I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with less front camber eventually. I bought some tire marking pens/ crayons and I'll have access to a tire pyrometer so I'll be able to monitor how the tires are responding in addition to going by feel. I'm going to get the most camber possible from the eccentric bolts, then make up the rest with the camber plates, which should help with caster. I set the front swaybar bracket to one position stiffer than stock which is 16% stiffer and still uses the stock endlink length (which is 2.75" from center-to-center of each end, BTW). I wanted to and tried to go another position stiffer, which would be 33%, but I couldn't get the endlink into the mounting hole; I justified the softer setting by thinking I didn't really feel like going through the whole process of determining what length the endlink needed to be to reach without preload. We'll see how this feels and go from there. The "soft-medium" setting I have for the rear swaybar should be 31% stiffer than stock (full soft on the Whiteline is 19% stiffer, medium is 42%, so 31% is the average of the two) so I'm anxious to see how the balance feels. I set the ride height so the front fender lip is just over 25" from the ground and the rear fender lip is just under 25" from the ground. I tried to set the rear even lower but the adjustment collar was hitting the upper arm at full droop. I never measured but I found that stock height is 26.5" in front and 26" in back, so I'm really close to that same balance/ rake. I also found that some of the last 9's in the European market were slightly lower in the rear at 25.8" which is part of the reason I wanted to go even lower in the rear. I think I'd need to go another full 0.5" lower to clear the rear upper arm, which seems like it'd tuck the rear wheel, so once again we'll see how feels and go from there. A quick pic with the new wheels and ride height. __________________ Brian K.