Quote:
Originally Posted by Pushit2.0
I made a bracket to hold all 3 dial indicators in the right spot so degreeing will be a lot easier and quicker in the future.
Close up at #1 TDC and both valves closed
With the Crower cam gears there is no real 0 marks and after all the decking on the block and head this is close to 0, if I run out of adjustment I would need to skip the belt 1 tooth either way on the intake and exhaust.
As it sits right now I can retard the cams a lot, but I do not have hardly any room for advancing the cams, the intake cam is close to hitting the piston when its at 0 and I have the intake retarded 8 deg and the exhaust retarded 6 deg (crank degrees). I know how close the valves are to the piston so I will play around with the cam gears on the engine dyno and see what it likes. I am looking at making the lob seperation higher then it is on the cam card and higher then it was before to help make power up top. Before the lobe seperation was about 104 deg and with were the cams sit now that number is about 110 deg.
Here is a link to the cam card: http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...15-2&x=36&y=11
~John |
Looks good John. So you are going for more than 110 lobe separation? I wouldn't advise over 114 as we might have serious idle issues with those high of a cam and the 1600's. We can play with injector angle time to try to bring it into check, but I'd say keep it wide enough to give room to mess with on the dyno to make power, without having to worry about fuel washing out the exhaust.
Let me know what Thursday works best for you homeslice. This will be epic.