Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor06
Ok, I think I am going to go with the ACL tri metal ones (and yes Joe, they do make them for 6 bolt rod bearings). I would rather over build it than underbuild it you know?
One question on the +.001 sizing though, wouldnt that make it more susceptible (spelling?) to spinning?
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No. Spinning is when metal touches metal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor06
What about rings? Prefiled would be nice if they make them, if not or if they are overly expensive its not a big deal. Someone recommended a brand to me and I cant remember it for the life of me. All I remember is they dont make pistons (that I know of) and it seems the name was of a town in the midwest. I will try to remember that name.
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No. Rings are always file fit. If you are not familiar with this process I would highly suggest having someone build your motor. Not all ring gaps are good, not all ring filers are the same, and not all rings are the same.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor06
Also, what about oil? I have heard soooo much about it all and everyone has a different opinion. I was going to go with some Royal Purple, but someone told me it "works too good" and the engine needs more friction to come up to the right operating temperature. Is there any merit in that statement? Is it true I can run the cheapest dino oil for the first couple oil changes of the break in since it wont be in there for long, or do I need to go with the same shit through and through? What about weight, the car wont see temps below probably like 50 degrees since its a summer cruise car, should I just stick with the 10W-30?
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We recommend and use Redline Oils for synthetic. Our motors get generic motor oil for initial break in, then switch out to synthetic on street motors at 500 miles. My motor got synthetic after 8 miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor06
Speaking of break in, a DSM wiseman told me that of the engines he has broken in, the best way he did it was by semi-beating on it during the break in. What would you recommend for the break in?
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Most aftermarket rings seat at idle. We break in all of our motors on the dyno using load/vac pulls. 10ish vaccumm pulls will usually seat all the rings, then its good to go. This is a very touchy subject for some, we do it our way, everyone has their own.
My motor was making 500+hp after 8 miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thor06
Sorry to be bombarding you with questions, but I gotta get my mind right on this shit so when it comes time to do it, I know what I am doing you know? I think I am going to have to hit you up for a set of those bearings and rings, but probably not for a while. I still gotta rip the engine apart, buy a decent torque wrench and micrometer, and get machine work done before I can start building it. Anyway, I appreciate the help Swanny and everyone else.
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Not a problem, it is what I am here for.