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Originally Posted by twack
i got one as a filler but i yanked the wires long time ago due to it being anoying (and was worthless) think i might put a 2nd boost gauge in cause i got it sitting around, just in case i want a second opinion on my boost.
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Haha, this guys is funny.
Noobs, The "blinky" gauges read on a 0-1 volt signal. They are reading on a narrow band signal. They are only accurate around 14.7:1. Once you deviate from that air fuel ratio (which is Stoiciometric* ).
*Stoiciometric is the air/fuel ratio for gasoline where the correct amount of air and fuel are used to produce a "perfect" combustion, meaning the only thing leftover is water and carbon dioxide.
A wideband afr meter uses a lambda sensor (o2 sensor for those attempting to follow along) that reads on a 0-5 volt scale.
The issue with using a 0-1 volt signal is that the way the voltage is sent. If it is just a little bit leaner or richer than 14.7 you are hosed.
See the graph? Voltage deviates just a little bit from stoic and you are hosed. Yeah you are "lean" or "rich" but how much?
This is where a wideband 02 setup comes into play.
This is a much more accurate way of measuring what the oxygen level in the exhaust system really is.
I'll save on how an 02 sensor actually works and the differences between different types of 02 sensors for another day.
Just remember that the blinky gauges are virtually useless when trying to tune for power. An engine operates at stoic afr ratios (give or take a few .1 of an airfuel ratio) near cruising and idle.
Decel, accel, part throttle, and WOT all have different target AFR's.
***Pictures taken from a Innovative LM-1 supliment.