[Gravy]

I've got a few things to answer, so bear with me if i forget an answer.

When looking at all of the exahst runners #2 and 4 are very clean, only small amounts of black soot as i'd call it, but no build ups. One was bad due to an exauhst leak, and actually got oil dripping into it once or twice, so there was a larger deposit around the outside, but the insides and the exauhst mani it's self was clean. #3, or the problem child as i'm starting to think of it, was horrible. There were actually resting deposits of soot or black powder in the runner and when looking up into the valves, it was coated black. Almost like there was a never ending hole. Anyways, the coolant lvl's are fine, and i'm getting no bubles coming out of the system when i pull the radiator cap when it's running. Both warm and cold.

Compresions were done on a mix of conditions. All tests were done in neutral(of course) on level ground by simply pushing on the starter button. Every time the engine was cold but the last time i did it with the 145 reading, but the plugs were still cool enough i could touch them by hand and it wasn't very hot. Otherwise the car had sat for 4+ hours and was just above room temp or cold. Not anywhere near operating temp.

Also, something i though of that's starting to scare me. WHen i look down the piston when there's good compresion the top of the piston looks new, shiny and clean. But when i'm getting shity compresion it's got oil on the piston. Shouldn't that burn on a little bit? I find it odd that it's nice and shiny. Don't recall the other pistons being dirty or clean.

Would a possible valve guide cause similar issues? I've yet to re-build an engine and doing so alone will be interesting to say the least. I've pulled a motor and removed the head once before. With our cars, can you remove the pistons, aka do a rebuild with the engine still in the car? I know on the old Escort you could pull the pan and remove them that way. Just getting them back in there was a bit harder(from the top of course).

Compresion tester is good. If i was getting f'd up readings on other cylinders i'd think it was bad. But getting no more then 2 PSI difference on all of the other 3 i'd think it's a good tester. The tester himself may not be the smartest one around, but it was done the same every time with similar issues.

Is a leak down tester something you get from a parts store or make yourself? I'll do some research tomorow and look more into this. But for now still fishing for some ideas and your input. Thanks for all the information and helpful ideas.