First off I will start by saying that this problem has only started to occur during the cold/snowy months. This may be coincidence, maybe not.

I will go out and start my car in the morning, no problem. Drive my car to destination X, no problem. But, if I go into a store for a short amount of time (half-hour to and hour) when I come back out and start the car, it runs like sh--. The car doesn't wanna rev, sounds like a 52 John Deere and doesn't accelerate at all. I don't know if its related or not, but when I pop the hood, there is what seems to be a ticking sound coming from my alternator. The sound is almost like current jumping.

But, if I go into somewhere for an extended period of time, and let the car cool completely, the car will run fine again. I really need some advice on this one guys and gals. I thought it might be an o2 sensor cause I will throw a CEL when the car is running poorly. I replaced that, but it didn't help. (Needed it anyway) If anyone can shed some light I would appreciate it. I don't want to take it into a shop for diagnosis till I try to fix it myself. TIA!!!

Joe

What kind of car, year, MODs?

92 Talon - MBC, UICP, K&N

Thats the sorta-common warm start syndrome. My old GSX did that too. Check on the VFAQ, I believe there is a write-up on how to cure that.

Check for a failed FPR or a leaky injector/s

Fuel pressure solenoid up on the firewall.

I don't really understand how the FP solenoid relates to the problem I am having, can you explain please. I do have my boost tapped into that line though, so maybe the tap is messing with things, but keep in mind I have had it tapped there for almost a year without issue until lately.

Also, what type of tests should I run on the solenoid? Ohm test? Volt test? If so, what type of readings should I expect to see.

Joe

Use your voltometer to pull the code off the diagnostic port. Then you have an idea of what is wrong. I haven't done it myself that way but I think they show how to on vfaq. Or, find someone with a datalogger. Is the code always on or just when it runs like crap? Have you tried reseting the ecu?

It has nothing to do with the issue, but just FYI you should not have your boost controller tapped there period. It isnt so bad to have the boost gauge tapped there, but it can slow the responsiveness of the FPR and you dont want that under boost.

If the FPR itself is bad, then it means your fuel pump is overrunning it. When you try to start your car when its warm, you cant because more fuel is injected than what is intended. This happened to my stock FPR, although starting it was never a *huge* problem. Sometimes it just took a little finess ;)

I have no experience with the fuel pressure selenoid though.

try the fpr....my dad had the same problem on his 2001chevy silverado... we replaced that and it started and ran like a champ!!!!

I don't have my controller tapped there, so no issue on that. But, I do have my gague tapped there. Where is the ideal tap location for the boost gague?

Secondly, I am willing to replace the FPR, but I am worried that this will not be the fix to my problem. If I do decide to replace the FPR should I just go aftermarket upgrade (adjustable), OEM replacement, or good ole bend me over Mitsu parts?

Joe

BTW - thanks for all the replies guys/gals!

You could get a used OEM for almost nothing. If you had big plans for the car though, i would spend the money and get a adjustable one. But, i would borrow a friends known-working FPR first, before you spend any money at all.

Where you located? I have one that worked fine. I dont want to sell it though. You could maybe borrow it.

I live in the St Paul area. If you would be willing to let me borrow it, that would be great. If that seems to fix the problem then I would be more than willing to pay you out for the part. Is there a VFAQ out there for the FPR I have never replaced one before.

Joe

I will let you borrow it, PM me with when you want to meet. I work most of this week so it may not be till saturday when I could meet.

To replace it, you start your car and pull the electrical connector from the fuel pump. The car will die and the fuel pressure is gone (no spilling gas). Then you unbolt the regulator, disconnect the lines and put the new one on. Not that difficult.