I was going to do a HG in my 92 but it turns out it is fine. So now I got a set of ARP head studs just sitting here. So I was thinking of just taking the stock bolts out and running the ARP's right in through the head one at a time. I know this has been done by a few people around and I was just wondering if anyone had any tricks or things to watch out for. Any opinions from anyone who has does this?

I think Shane said he has done it before. I would never do it though as you will want to make sure the holes are clear of any oil or debris. I also like to tap them while I have the head off.
If you do it though, make sure to do one at a time. How much boost do you plan on running? Why did you think you had a bad HG? If it has been a while since you replaced the T-belt, you may as well pull the head and do it the right way. Then you can replace the HG at the same time.

Also, if you are going to do it with the head on the car, make sure you do not torque the bolts down completely. As you take an old bolt out, replace it with the new one and snug it up, dont torque it. I am pretty sure there is a torque sequence and you want to follow it.

Honestly, to do it right, you wanna take the head off.

One, when you you tighten up headbolts, they expand, and warp a bit. You definately want to re-tap these holes. You could also just tap them while the head is on, but good luck. Very tight spaces.

I know of a few EVO owners who have done this successfully. But they come stock with metal headgaskets, not composite ones like ours. And from what I hear, it's a little safer to do this with a metal hg in there vs. a composite one like you most likely have.

Good luck, there's no way to loosen and tighten in sequence if you're loosening, replacing and then tightening each stud. I suppose you could just take each out in sequence and put in an ARP without torqueing at all, then torque them to spec once they're all in. Just don't break the seal by bumping the head while the bolts are out.

So yeah, bottom line is... Take the head off the block if you really wanna do it right.

Its worth it in the end. I pulled my head just to be safe and when I did, I noticed my head gasket was starting to get close. Definitely if the timing belt has seen some wear.

Man I didnt know this. I dont want to take my head off to put ARPs in. I would think taking one out tightening it and then doing the next would be fine...

I was hoping to run around 25psi on race gas if I got the ARP's in. I know Enes and Shane have both had good luck doing this recently and it can be done. I was just mainly looking for any opinions on the acutual process if anyone had done it as I am pretty sure this is what I will be doing. I just cant justify pulling the head just to put in the ARP studs alone.

I was in same boat as you man.. hence why i did it.


I started from middle..
took one out.. lubed the threads a little, slowly finger tightened it, let it sit for a minute and then torqued it to 80.
did it in criss cross formation.
Then i went back and torqued them the by the book following the pattern. but torqued them to 85.
let it sit for about an hour, went and ate.
then came back and torqued them to 90.
I will check it again this weekend before i go to RF just to make sure they are all torqued still to 90.
this was done on cold motor. with total time of 2 to 2 1/2 hours.
no bubling in the reservoir, no overheating issues... yet.. almost 2000 miles i think..
thats all i put on the car this year.. with at least 50 passes on 24 to 26 psi showing 41 to 45 # air/min

_E

Have you ever removed a head before? If not, it'd be a good learning experience. Once you do it once, it won't seem like such a big deal anymore. That's how it was for me atleast.

Best of luck, lots of people blow head gaskets right away or soon thereafter installing ARP's this way.