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Well,
i'm thinking of how to limit the weight transfer more on the fwd cars. I was thinking making like two rods in the rear suspension to make it solid. so like i can bolt it in place of the shock? and the rear of the car would be higher than normal? The only setback to that is that i'd have to keep swaping the rear suspension every time i'd go to the track, which is not that often anyways.. what do you guys think? which also means i would have to get a new shock tower collar and a shock that i can weld to it.. -E |
Solid rear suspension is a bit extreme... You want a little give back there. I'd suggest just getting adjustable shocks. The Teins that are on display at Propulshun get pretty damn stiff at their highest setting.
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i currently have Tokico's 5 way adjustables.
-E |
Get coil-overs and set the rears as high as they'll go and the fronts as low as possible without the tires rubbing and set all four shocks at full firm. Or if you wanted to do it on the cheap, just pick up some coil spring spacers that twist in between the coils. We used to buy them back in the day when jacking up your Chevy was cool.
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AIR BAGS. you can go from street to strip with a push of a button.
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Or maybe just some metal rods you can bolt in place with the car jacked up? Or a couple of cylinders (hydraulic or pneumatic) that you could fill (air pressure, or just oil to lock it if you use hydraulic cylinders) to stiffen up or lock the rear suspension but leave bolted/welded in place for street driving? Just a few more ideas for you. There was a kit to do this with pneumatic cylinders for sale at one point in time, that was a few years ago, obviously never caught on. I don’t remember who it was, but Dijon tool pops into mind.
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I am with Carl, bag it. Takes very little time to do and still gives you some suspension. You are back to normal street settings in 20 seconds too.
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Wheelie bars.
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I don't know if this is true or not but I have heard that with two much power and airbags you can blowout the airbags on the lauch. :3gears:
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the bars might not be good on the body. ive heard of some hondas doing it in place of their coil over setup. but it just does not seem like a good idea.
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from what I understand, if the rear axl is solid the hole time, you could lose control you need some suspension, so make somthing that releases after the most weight transfer. you would not want to flip over right. :rally:
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Wheelie bars with hydraulic actuators for adjustable height on the fly. And a large set of airfoils in front of the car to keep the nose down at speed.
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Coilovers or spring-blocks. I don't see wheelie bars being truely effective on FWD unless they are actually holding tension against the ground. When I ran at the track, I found my best settings on my AGX shocks were 8 (full hard) in the rear, and 3 (1-4, 4 being hardest) up front. I always had my coilovers set with a slight tilt forward to keep weight over the front tires.
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^ What kind of 60 foots were you pulling?
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2.4 best of beint 2.37 the 13.1 run
-E |
My 60's were generally right around 2.3 or so, mostly due to no traction. 17's are no good for drag-racing. Launching wasn't my strong-point either....very inconsisent.
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the hardest part is that actually i don't want to mess up the body in order to run the wheelie bars.. i would hate to have to take the bumper and all that stuff off every time. but if i have to i supose i will..
-E |
Check out Smithoid's car. He has 2 round holes in the back bumper to mount his wheelie bars. It is not very noticeable at all, especially on a black car. Bagging it would be the easiest to do and could be used on the street too.
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