Ok heres the deal. When i swapped my brake pads when i was in minnesota i think i fucked up a little, my car hasnt been the same since. Ive never had a car with ABS before so i think i messed with the adjustment and tightend it too much. first off i remember when i finished the job i pulled out of my driveway and started to accelerate to hear a loud scraping and very little power, the car was moving but when i let off the gas the car slowed down very fast. so i pulled back into the driveway and loosened the bolts i thought were the problem, still the problem exists that when i am at a stoplight i can let totally off the brake pedal and the car will not move, (remember im still an automatic at the moment) usually if you let off the brake the car will roll foreward. so im thinking that the brakes are still set too tight, and i think this may be causing my car to get horrible gas milage due to the added stress on the motor. Is there any way to adjust the ABS brakes so that they are to spec?
Tom

Did you open the bleeder screws before you forced the caliper piston back in?

bleeder screws??? i dont think so

Bleeder screws on the calipers.I don't have much experience with DSM ABS, but with others, its easy to damage valves in the ABS, if your not careful

Don't open the hydraulic system if you don't have to.

There really isn't any adjustments for disc brakes. did you put the pads in backwards? :stick:

But seriously... Unless you removed the hub/bearing I doubt you f'd up your ABS system. Unless you damaged the back of the sensor by bumping/hitting it with the caliper while you were messing around back there.

Actually on ABS systems you should always open the bleeders when you compress the caliper pistons back in.I've seen plenty of ABS damage by NOT doing so.

no the pads are not backwards, but like i said "first off i remember when i finished the job i pulled out of my driveway and started to accelerate to hear a loud scraping and very little power, the car was moving but when i let off the gas the car slowed down very fast. so i pulled back into the driveway and loosened the bolts i thought were the problem,"

I've never opened the bleeder to compress the caliper piston in my life and never had a problem. Just squeeze it with the trusty old ChannelLock pliers.

The sensor is in the hub/spindle on mitsu's, not in the caliper

The caliper slider bolts are not your problem Tom, I would retighten them. Did you check to see if your rotor backing plate/dust sheild is scraping on the rotor?

The position of the sensor has nothing to do with it, it valves inside(external on some vehicles) the ABS unit/pump that can be damaged by reverse pressure

Never had it happen personally but I have no doubts that it is possible.

I've never opened the bleeder to compress the caliper piston in my life and never had a problem. Just squeeze it with the trusty old ChannelLock pliers.

The sensor is in the hub/spindle on mitsu's, not in the caliper [/b][/quote]
I do not open the system either, put to push in the pistion just turn the ignition on the ABS pump opens the valves. so some say that buy pushing the old juice past the pump will fuck up the pump , I never had a problem in seven years of this practice. :goodluck:

mdereus21: The two bolts holding the caliper together, one has L and the other had G on the head of them, they need to be torqued at 45 ft/lbs


ding ding ding we have a winner

I've seen/heard of it happen an easy 15+ times, Dodge trucks seem to be the most easily damaged.Personally I'd rather not take a chance at damaging $100-$500+ parts, when it can be easily avoided with a 5 min brake bleed.

We'll see. If not then most likely something got messed up with the ABS system.

EDIT - I'm dyslexic... It's actually 54 ft/lbs...

I agree with that. also it would be a good time to change all the fluid out. I flush out by system every two years, I'm thinking of trying synthetic fluid.

Your car is equipped with Minnesota rotors that depend on the specific compressive effects found only in our roads. You need to quickly swap to Cali spec rotors and all will be well. You do not however need to upgrade to the high inertial load rotors as your car is an auto and will never actually generate any of those types of forces. They do however make a more suitable beefy calipers to deal with the stresses of excessive reverse torque. You might want to consider them.

Wow I never knew that mike, gee golly does QPR sell them? Very funny mike.

anyways, i torqued them to 54 ft/lbs and she feels a hell of a lot looser. much better, but now i need to bleed the brakes because after pumping the brakes i still have to push the peddle to the floor and it will slowly come to a stop, so any ideas on how to do this. please no ideas from mike. i know where the valves are just dont know how to open them.

You use a wrench ;)

hahahahah. You need a manual if your going to do stuff like that Tom.

Take the little rubber cap off the bleeder and loosen it with a wrench and go at it. Have fun if your doing it alone. ;)