I finished installing a 2600 clutch, Fidanza flywheel, new OEM TO bearing, a QPR longer slave rod and I cannot get the tranny into gear. The pedal seems to run into the floor but I cannot select gears. This is similar to what Kougar had a while ago in his quest. Could the longer rod throw off the shift fork movement? Do I need to adjust the clutch pedal? I know it was right before. Seems that the pedal has a bit of play before it grabs and becomes firm. Please tell me I do not need to take it apart again :ohmy: .

What do you think is wrong? This is my first clutch swap. Please help ASAP. Thanks in advance, John.

Did you bleed the slave cylinder?

On the way to the cookout my TO bearing (I think) reached its final stage. I pushed it in, it felt wierd, I let go and there was a lot less pressure coming back up. And there was about 2" of play... so Im not sure though what could be wrong with yours. TO bearing installed the right way?

I did not bleed the slave cylinder. Do I need to bleed it? I unbolted it from the tranny without un-screwing any of the clutch lines.

I think the TO bearing can only go on one way. I also swapped trannys. I took the old one off and put the new one on right away. Took a minute.

Could it just need to be adjusted (clutch pedal from the floor)? Would the 2600 and new slave rod throw it out of align. I can push the pedal a bit before I feel the pressure.

Bleed it, then try adjusting the clutch pedal, linkage, and then if thats not it, pull the tranny off and go from there. :)

In my experience, you need to bleed the slave if you unbolt it and let the rod/piston move all the way out. Like Cher said, bleed it and then adjust the pedal and you should be fine.

Jim

If the slave cylinder has a chance to open up (extend the rod) then it needs to be bled. Also with new clutch installs its a good idea to bleed them anyways, because usually the engagement point moves. The reason it moves is due to the fact that now everything is back to 'spec' (correct thickness clutch disc, correct step height, new TO bearing). The clutch hydraulics actually adjust overtime to keep the system moving smoothly.
You might also have to adjust the throw/engagment point on the peddle due to the longer rod.
good luck :).

Thanks, I will try to work on it tonight so I can make RF on saturday.

Hopefully you can get yours fixed, my problem still remains - even after 3 months. :goodluck:

tow it to a shop and have them fix it...


(lol sorry i had to :) )

-E

That is my next step if I have to pull the tranny again. I will let you know. You will be better off if I make it to RF and break. More $$$ for you ;) .

Honestly i rather not tow any of you guys again, because i don't want your cars to break...

but if they do i will gladly do the tow for you..

-E

OK, I went out to bleed the clutch. Before bleeding it, my friend noticed that you can get it into gear with the car off except 5th gear. While bleeding the clutch, the clutch pedal would get stuck to the floor after I close the valve. There would still be plenty of fluid in the resivior. We repeated the process untill the bubbles went away. After doing it, the trans could get into 5th while the car was off. There still feels like a lot of slop in the pedal though. We started it and it still will not go into gear. Everytime he let off the clutch (after I shut the valve) it remained stuck to the floor. The repair manual says that you should slowely release it but it gets stuck. What am I doing wrong? Could it have something to do with the slave cylinder?

Crankwalk

Normal

Thats really a sign of crankwalk?

Is the slave cylider new? Does it have any fluid coming out of the boot? I would replace that anyway. But first pull out the boot going into the tranny around the clutch fork and have someone push the clutch down all the way. Can you see the fork moving all the way? If it doesnt move very much then there is a problem with either adjustment under the dash or the slave/master cylinders.

Like mine, it sounds very much like air in the hydralics, and i still think i have an air leak somewhere...

Anyhoo maybe there's an air leak with you too? There are things called Mity-vac or something, i'm sure someone here knows of them. They apparently take out ALL air easily and quickly. I have yet to try it personally, but maybe you wanna try it.

Oh, and dont give up so soon! I mean jeeze, I've dropped my tranny 4 times in a row now. Then again i suppose you do have a DSM :naughty:

Ok, I threw in the old clutch rod and the pedal became much stiffer. Still had a little play but not as much. I tried bleeding it again, no bubbles came out and it remained stuck to the floor. The slave cylinder is moving, it appears to move far enough. I cannot compare it to anything though. I looked under the dash at the adjustment and the boot looks like it may be wet. The rod going into it is a little also and it looks like a little fluid (one drop) may have rolled down the drivers side of the firewall. That must be my leak.

How would I get a leak now and have all these problems when I didn't before? I didn't touch the hydrolic system, I just unbolted it from the tranny. The only thing I can think of it that the new clutch rod did it. Maybe when I put it in, it raised the fluid level until it couldn't go any furthur and blew out a bit at the seal on the firewall. Any ideas?

Do you think that is my problem or is it something else. It doesn't appear to leak at all when I push the pedal. Looks like some was forced out once.

you should be able to shift into every gear with the car off, weather the clutch disengages or not. What year car is this in and what year car did the tranny come out of. The shifter linkage, shifter base, and shift levers on the tranny vary with years, you need to know how to make them work with each other if there from differnt years.

~John

I think the pedal is supposed to stay stuck when you are bleeding it, you pull the pedal up after you close the valve...