Put a new head on the laser and also had new caps put in the ecu, connected everything up and the car won't crank. We didn't modify any of the starting system and it did crank before the new head and new caps put in the ecu. Wha tdo you think the problem is. Think it could be the ecu?

Does anything turn on? Like the fuel pump, gauges? Can you hear the relay click at all?

CRAIG

The dash lights come on, the boost guage goes to zero and the relay clicks. The battery is good and charged.

Make sure all the engine grounds and the starter wires are connected.The ECU doesn't have anything to do with the starter circuit, and if the boost gauge zero's when the ign is turned on, the ECU is working.

I am pretty sure they are all connected. mpi and 2 others on the possative. On the neg side there is one goint to the firewall and 1 more on there.

Do you have the one from the battery to the starter bolt?
joe

If you don't fix it, I could probably head out there again and help if needed.

Does the starter do anything at all? Check and make sure that the signal wire didn't get knocked off the starter when you were swapping heads.

I am pretty sure that is what it is. There is nothing. We push started the car a couple of times but the car doesn't like venting a type-s ;) . We have to stay on the gas to keep it from killing. I also need to connect the logger to get the throttle cable adjusted properly. The previous owner hacked the shit out of the MAS so I had to find a stocker. Runs a bit better but still has idle problems (boost leak symptoms, probly type-s). I will have to make a recirc pipe fit and try it again. Does anyone have a stock car? How many wires are on each battery terminal? I am guessing that a starter wire got buried somewhere. Both the starter wires are in the same loom as the tranny connector right? I have two wiers on the negative side of the battery, one to the firewall and the other to the loom with the tranny connector. I have three on the possitive side, one to the MPI fuse box, one to the same loom as the tranny loom and I cannot remember where the other goes (I am at school and cannot check). I hope James just dropped a wire down. He put a new terminal on the negative side.

Ok, I have the cranking figured out. There is a loose connection on the starter switch.

I recirculated the bov and the car will still not idle. It wants to kill. The car has a new intake manifold gasket along with the TB gaskets so that is not the problem. I still have not boost leak tested it yet though. I did a compression test on the beater and it went (4-1) 160-160-70-160.

Does anyone know what the voltage at the fuel pump is supposed to be? That will probly be the next thing I check.

The previous owner put copperspray on the exhaust mani-->turbo gasket. Would that smoke? I see a bit of smoking from it. Under boost, it will smioke out the gasket like it is not sealing. There is no smoke coming out the exhaust though. Is the coppersptay keeping it from sealing? It doesn't smoke at idle or normal opperating speeds but a quick snap of the throttle to spool the turbo will send some white looking smoke out. Doesn't leave the lock though.

Cylinder number 2 is 70? I hope thats a typo.

Did you check to make sure the BISS screw didn't back out of adjustment on the throttlebody? I know that would make your idle screwy.

I wish it were the case. The engine supposedly was rebuilt 34K ago. I am now believing it (160 #'s). While drilling the 2g head, we noticed that one of the valves was open while the rest were closed. The rocker was off a bit. It was adjusted and looked fine. I will have to pull the cover and check it again. Hopefully it didn't fall off to the side smashing the valve and piston. The head was off a running 95. I will take the car to QPR and have a leakdown test done when I get it running better.