i herd of people removing their balance shafts. what are the results? can you just pull them out? please give me info thanks.

First, when in the tech sections can the wording be more to the style of 7th grade english? There is a shift key.


Second, www.vfaq.com.

Third, http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

People generally remove them for insurance reasons. If the belt breaks, it usuallly knocks off the t-belt. It also creates less drag on the engine. If you are swapping timing belts, I would do it but I would not pull the front of the engine apart to do so.

I had QPR did my balance shaft removal. They have a better way of doing it by cnc machining one of the shafts for better longer positioning of the oil pump gear, unlike the short stuby from that vfaq picture, there is always a chance of it wearing thru the aluminum housing etc etc..

If you want to see what it does to a car when its removed you can come on over and see. i also have hard engine mounts too so it a bit more vibrations than usual.

leme know..

-E

It's a good thing. But I wouldn't do it just for the hell of it. But it's a good time to do it if you're replacing the timing belt and you're engine has some miles on it. Replace the front case and oil pump while you're in there.

The front case and oil pump are a little spendy at over $200 in parts. I would check them if you do go through the trouble to pull the shafts. They can be verified to make sure they still meet factory tollerances. If they don't, obviously it would be the best time to swap them.

If you have a serious interest in doing this, I recommend having myself or someone else who can tig aluminum weld your front case to block the hole left from the front shaft, it is cheap and much cleaner/safer than going with the RTV or JB weld and a plug method. I have seen those fail a few times.

The advantages to doing it are there as mentioned in added safety for your timing belt and some potential increased performance from less rotating weight, but as was also mentioned, I wouldn't do this as a single mod, rather it would be more worth doing if you already are in that area for TB replacement etc. There is a pretty decent amount of work involved and it is all messy.

yeah my motor is about a million parts due to my head gasket. the t-belt is off so do you think i should do it?

yes

I removed my balance shafts when I rebuilt my laser. I notice only slightly more vibration at idle still very smooth thru the whole powerband. I removed them for free (well I had to buy a bolt that cost me a whole 90 cents) if you would like to know how I removed 'em ill write some instructions for ya. Overall it was quite easy to do and the best part is that now I have two weapons that Mitsubishi cleverly disguised as useful auto parts sitting in my trunk :lol:

My T-Belt broke and I was wondering if i should have the Balance shafts removed? BTW it is a 93 talon tsi with 130,000.

As long as you are in there, yes.

And get that stub shaft from QPR. I have a full magnus build that was almost wrecked by that colt/mirage stub eating my oil pump housing and locking up the oil pump.

-MaTT

ours isn't a stub shaft. Its a full shaft that has been turned down. This allows it to still be light weight, but allow bearing support to prevent the oil pump gears from chewing up the front case.

If you have a 2G, do it for the increased oil pressure.

Just for conversations sake, has anyone tried using the 90 straight cut oil pump gears vs. the newer ones to possibly combat this problem? Wait, I'm getting ahead of myself... Was 90 the only year the oil pump had straight cut oil pump gears? Just curious if the straight cut gears would put less load on the sides of the oil pump housing and not cause this problem...

Or is it the actual stub itself? Guess I've never heard much of this problem until now...