How fucked up can a bolt be before a die set can't fix it.

I ask because a bolt on my car that comes out of the body (read: really a pain in the ass to replace) has the first 2-3 threads completely trashed.

Can I fix this with a die and some patience, or is it too far gone??

get a new one..

-E

dag y0, I was hoping that wasn't the case.

Oh well, thanks for the fast help!!

Edit: Just out of curiosity what exactly can a die fix??

A die is more for making threads out of blank metal. It can clean up threads, but it is hard to get them started correctly if it is the first threads that are messed up. If the middle or back threads are messed up, it works good for that because it is already started in the correct pattern.

As long as you have adequate threads in the hole when the bolt would be all the way in, you can fix the bolt with a thread file and or regular file. I fix them all the time with no issues (I work with Josh and Allan ;) ) It just requires some patience and if the threads are completely gone, it may be worth either putting a chamfer on the bolt or cutting it shorter. Either way, there would have to be enough threads left when you are done or it would be a mistake.

we ended up cutting it shorter and then using the die to clean up the threads, and it worked beautifully.

There are plenty of threads too, we could thread another nut on top of this one if we wanted to

Ace hardware has one full wall of bolts.. just make sure you get apropriate one for the job.. i hate fixed bolts.. next time you pull them out or tighten them you run into problem of NOT having the option and then having to drill drill drill tap and that just makes everything stoopid..

-E

Thats not really true. Theres nothing wrong with fixing bolts if they can be repaired. Use some locktite or grease on them and they will never have a problem coming back out.

Never say never little kid.. you will learn as you grow older!

-E

Who are you calling little kid? Ive seen way more broken bolts and things having to to with tapping than you have. Sorry but I think you lose. ;) You dont know what Ive dealt with on my car, most people dont.

Off topic.. i apologize for changing topic..
Ok guy, then grow up because i don't knw if you are 5 or 15 ...

-E

Yea mods delete all this gayness. BTW Enes your not always right you know. I guess if Mike fixes bolts all the time like he mentioned hes doing it the wrong way too... :rolleyes:

-E

Bolts are made of metal little girls, it isn't a big mystical thing. If the threads turn in okay without binding and the bolt hasn't been stretched, it will be fine.

what is the thread pitch on my ARP head studs now that i've torqued them to spec once?

Uhhhhh................ the same that it was before??? Brian, I probly could have fixed that bolt for you at work if you came in earlier ;) . Is the car on the road yet?

BTW, Peter, locktite and grease are not the same thing.

No but they will both protect the bolt from rust and also keep it from seizing. I like grease as it sheilds from water.

No No No, you are all wrong.The correct way is to get a pneumatic impact wrench, the bolt will thread right in.

with two large air compressors!!!

That bolt was just a swaybar endlink bolt, and I needed a longer one anyway, I bought a universal polyurethane endlink bushing kit, and every bushing is about 1/8" of an inch taller, so the stock bolt is not long enough.

The car was on the road, and it turns out my rear differential isolators are completely trashed, it was supposed to be a brick of rubber sandwhiched between 2 pieces of metal, my brick of rubber on both sides is completely seperated from the bottom piece of metal, so my differential is literally just sitting on its support, nothing holding it down at all, so the clunking noise was the diff rising up 3 inches and slamming down on the support.

Oh well, easy fix, and for $140, not terribly expensive, and it could be much worse if it was the differential itself.