I just put in a SPEC stage II clutch in my quest, and i did it myself. Thing is, now it doesn't go into gear. When the car is off, the shifter moves in and out of gears fine, so the shifter has to be in right (i have RWD also - direct link).

I got it in reverse once, i dont know how - i might have pulled up on the shifter. It shot me backwards until i put it back in neutral. I can't remember if i even had the clutch out when it shot me.

It will not go into any gear, and it grinds reverse like hell.

I had a leak of DOT 3 before the clutch, never found out what it was though. I'm thinking master/slave cylinder, because that's what my new problems points to.

I've already bled the clutch (no help), the pedal is fine, and that's what i've done so far.

you should put it in to first when the car is off, then start the car. itll jerk then it should work. thats what i did to my truck when it didnt go into gear. if that doesnt work then i dont know.

um...no offense, but how would that help my get it in the other gears? It can't go in any of them.

I dont have a neutral switch either, so i can start it with the clutch out.

The clutch is obviously not disengaging completely.It may be installed improperly, faulty master/slave cylinders, or a longer slave rod may be needed.

check the cluch fork movement, make sure its moving enough to release the clutch. Or you could have installed somthing wrong.

~John

How much heavyer is the clutch? Did you put in an SS clutch line? Your car is older than any DSM, your line probably doesn't care for the extra pressure. At least than can be an issue for DSM's.

Nut behind the wheel?

you say you can shift it good while its not running?

did you verify that by puting it in neutral and moving the car, and then puting it in each gear and moving the car to verify that it actually GOES into the gear.

what you could of done as well is missed the fork alinement, or maybe even forgot to put the throw out bearing.

-E

OK...

Clutch was installed right, im almost positive of it. The fork does move when the clutch is pushed, it just doesn't move enough. So, like some have said, it's not fully disengaging. I do not have a SS line, maybe i should look into that...

The slave doesn't slowly 'leak' backwards after it's pushed in, we checked. But does this mean it's good for sure? I don't wanna just start replacing stuff that is fine, even though it is 17 years old.

All bearings are new, and im pretty sure the release fork is OK too.

Wow....GETTING PISSED. :headache:

Here's a quick re-cap....of hasn't worked

- Bled and Re-Bled then Re-bled again
- Adjusted the pedal
- Took shifter out, put it back in

also...

- Slave doesn't move back when pushed (not bad right?)
- Clutch pedal runs into the floor

So right now i'm leaning very heavily towards "Didn't install the damn TO bearing right." How the fuck did i screw that up? There are two clips that hold it to the release fork, they came off once while installing (put them back on) but i'm guessing they came off again. :fworld:

It's also possible i bent something when I let the tranny hang from the clutch area for about 30 second. Either way, I may just have the POS towed then have a professional do it right, since I'm obviosully incapable.

Oh yeah, although it seems pretty well covered, if ya want the opinion of quest people go here

...Wow...

I must be king idiot or something.

I RE-DID my clutch. Well, re-did it tranny back. Turns out one of the TO clips was infact on wrong. I fixed that, and figured i was fine. Turns out i didn't do shit. Same exact problem as before.

Strange thing is, i'm not even mad. Just...dumbfounded. All that work was like practice, and that's it.

Just to make sure...but Valvoline 80w-90 "high performance" gear oil can be used in the tranny, right?

Problem remains (how i see it) at clutch is not disengaging fully.

Is there any pedal adjustment on the "0"gens?

I did my 2600 in my 2G and had the EXACT same problems you have until i realized that my pedal was hitting the floor before the clutch master cyl was pushed in all the way. I adjusted my pedal to bottom out the clutch master cyl as it hit the floor and everything works great.


-Matt

Well i adjusted my pedal ALL the way up, so that you would get the fullest pedal possible. That did nothing except put my pedal really high.

Another "Magnus trick" is to put a fatty lock-washer under the pivot point for the clutch release fork. About 2mm thick washer should increase the travel of your TOB and disengage the clutch. You gotta' take the trans down though.........that sux.

-Matt