http://www.enesg.com/gallery/albums/...0199.sized.jpg

Ok, i hear all people complaining about greddy large fmic how its bad and all that.. how its MILE LONG tiny piping..

If you look the pipe on the top is 2 1/2 inch, and inlet is also 2 1/2 but the only tiny pipe is the turbo to the intercooler pipe.. now think about it... turbo outlet on most turbo's is 2" anyways.. what wold be the point of it going over the 2" of pipe until it reaches the intercooler anyways?


about the only thing i could see they could of changed is taken the 90 degree on the turbo and spun it the other way around so that it can go by the exhaust get heated up even more.. and then go thru the intercooler, that would shorten the piping by about 20" thats about it....

-E

Plenty of people have gone very fast on the large GReddy FMIC. Remember that this is the same core used for the Skyline. The only benefit for shorter piping is quicker spool up and more of a straight shot. But this reduces the volume of the plenum charge available after the turbo. Larger pipes will slow down the velocity of the air flow which will reduce air temps slightly and reduce flow resistance. But 2.5 inch pipe is still bigger than the 60mm throttle plate.

I would like to see side by side numbers of a system with only the pipes being changed.

how about not having the piping blocking the top 1/4 of the intercooler? or better yet, having the inlet on the right of that pic and the outlet on the left? what's the pressure drop on the greddy?

yeah, it looks like it's on backwards.

That top part is blocked by the bumper anyway.

he needs speed holes.

Well side mounts must not do anything at all since they are blocked by more than a pipe.

I think the air will get around that pipe, and it isn't really that much of the surface area.

Unless things have changed or get a custom set up this is the best fmic on market for 2g. I have it on my car. I still use the bumper. Just cut out the area on bottom of bumper so air will go around pipe and get that last 1/8 area. With 1g engine, 20g turbo I have never seen egt go above 1200, even under heavy driving and load. I cut out about 1/3 of my front bumper. Takes away strength, but not much.

I see the clamps your using from picture. I suggest T-Bolt clamps if your running allot psi. I think you can get them at QPR or others. When I went over 18psi they just will blow off every 5-10 miles under boost and thats annoying.

what do EGT temps have to do with IC?

They don't, his car is just running far too rich.

Heavy-duty worm drive clamps can handle just about anything you throw at them. I personally don't like T-bolt clamps, too expensive and a real PITA to tighten/loosen.

Without fmic my egt temp was too high. Most of my modifications I have done once at at time so I WOULD SEE THE EFFECTS. I have never had to worry about T-Bolt clamps coming loose. I did have problems with the ones in the picture. No matter how much you tighten they would come loose and the t-bolts are easier to tighten. My car is not running rich, Tuned it recently WOT after new cylinder head on dyno chasis. Take this advice and use it or don't. Just trying to help.

if you are seeing 1200f max egt either you are making no power or your probe is nowhere near the exh runners. if you're seeing max 1200c you're detonating or running stupidly rich. if you have properly beaded IC pipes worm-drive clamps won't blow off.

if you want a good fmic setup try indyracecores (not sure if they ever became reliable on production again though), RNR out of san diego, dougs dyno power, and a few others. all make great 2g setups with nicely routed piping and good core/endtank setups

Heavy-duty worm drive clamps can handle just about anything you throw at them. I personally don't like T-bolt clamps, too expensive and a real PITA to tighten/loosen. [/b][/quote]
Your kidding right? T bolts are cheap for what they do and they are super easy to get on and off. Just as easy as worm clamps. Napa carries T-Bolts for 2-3 bucks depending on size.


If you want to go all out we also carry wiggins clamps but that's a whole differant ball game. Big money.

Quote (illz @ may 6 2004, 10:31pm)
if you are seeing 1200f max egt either you are making no power or your probe is nowhere near the exh runners. if you're seeing max 1200c you're detonating or running stupidly rich. if you have properly beaded IC pipes worm-drive clamps won't blow off.

First, I have greddy fmic, it has properly beaded pipes, ALL do, without t-bolt clamps my old hose clamps would not hold up on dyno after 18psi. T-bolt have better clamping force. Second I use pyrometer egt f * 100 gauge from autometer, sensor taped on manifold runner off of #1 cylinder. Gauge goes from 0-16. Under heavy load never seen it go past 13. Made 380whp on dyno chasis with my set-up and a/f ratio wot from 4.5 rpm-8.0 is avg. 12.0, almost straight linear line. Car is tuned correctly and runs great on c16. Again I think Greddy fmic is very good, probably even better ones now offered in the aftermarket.

if you are seeing 1200f max egt either you are making no power or your probe is nowhere near the exh runners. if you're seeing max 1200c you're detonating or running stupidly rich. if you have properly beaded IC pipes worm-drive clamps won't blow off.

if you want a good fmic setup try indyracecores (not sure if they ever became reliable on production again though), RNR out of san diego, dougs dyno power, and a few others. all make great 2g setups with nicely routed piping and good core/endtank setups [/b][/quote]
NO NO NO NO STAY AWAY FROM INDY RACE CORES!!!!!

They are very hard to get in touch with. Also the fact that a very good friend of mine ordered 1500 dollars worth of stuff from them almost a year and a half ago and the stuff still hasn't showed up. The guy more or less dissapeared after the order was made and he won't send the stuff or money back... to make a long story I have heard alot of bad stuff about ken ( I think it is his name ) at IRC and my friend is in the process of sueing him.

Your EGT's should be higher than 1300 deg F. You say you are tuned right, how do you know? Your AFR's may be right, but then you need more timing if your EGT's are that low. Heat = expansion = power.

Also, what was discussed earlier, why the bigger piping for the intake pipe to the IC? Vicious had it right, but didn't elaborate on it, the resistance in piping is cumulative. The longer the piping, the more resistance and the smaller the piping, the more resistance. So short, large piping is the best. This is also why people can make huge HP on a stock 1g TB. It is not very long, so the restriction isn't outrageous, but it is still a significant restriction.

I think you may have things a little mixed up, this is just my opinion, the Greddy FMIC might be and probably is the MOST POPULAR, but I am don't think it performs the best anymore. There are a few I can think of that just have a lot better design just by looking at them. Personally I have the Apexi Skyline GTR FMIC and just by looking at the end tank design and the way the intercooler piping runs would make it seems way more practical and efficient. Or even the Victory FMIC looks like it has a lot better design than the Greddy. People have went really fast and made a lot of power on the Greddy though so it must be a good intercooler, however I don't think they have made many strides to change with the ever changing market.

And yeah atleast if you buy the Greddy you will probably get it within a decent amount of time if at all. I have heard some horror stories about the other FMIC's.

Maybe Brian (Slowwhite) can tell you about the two FMIC's, he switched from the large Greddy to a Apexi Skyline just like the one thats in my car. So Brian which one do you like better?

CRAIG

Gredy small or large? the small is pretty small bytheway
-E