what does knock mean?
what is timing, what happens when you change it?
how does the air fuel ratio stuff work? like 12:1 or sumting like that.
what air fuel do you want to hit?
BASICALLY I WANT TO KNOW THE BASICS OF TUNING, PLEASE SOMEONE EXPLAIN?

There is lots of info out on the net already.... Go do a search on VFAQ and then come back if you have more questions.

Thats my suggestion ;)

Unfortanately this is a very broad question(s).

I would recommend reading through the tech (basic & advanced) on here, along with other forums (like DSMTuners) and you will start to get a good idea.

Although I'm sure a few will give their input.

Knock-Knock is bad.Knock can mean 1 of 2 things, pre-ignition knock (which comes from mixture igniting before you want it to), or post-ignition knock (which comes from the mixture burning to quick).Either results in peak combustion chamber pressures before the engine is meant to deal with them.Do a google for NACA, they were the WWI-II equivalent of NASA, they have the best papers on Knock and other topics.Including pictures of actual knock, from an engine with a quartz window in the combustion chambers

Timing-Timing can refer to 1 of 2 things also, cam timing or ignition timing.The latter is what is usually meant when people speak of timing.Basically it is how many degrees before TDC the spark plug ignites the mixture.In non-knocking combustion, after your plug ignites the mixture, it takes a certain amount of time for peak chamber pressure.You generally want the peak pressure to be at or just after TDC, otherwise the combustion energy is fighting the crankshaft rotational energy.As RPM increases, since burn time stays relatively the same, the ECU advances ignition timing to keep the peak pressures where they are suppose to be.Not enough timing advance and you're wasting your combustion energy, too much timing advance and you're not only wasting energy, but you're putting severe stress on mechanical parts.

Air/fuel ratio-Most production vehicles aim for a ~14.7:1 mixture, any leaner or richer and emissions increase rapidly.Best power is usually obtained at about 12 or 13:1.

EGT temps-In my opinion EGT temps are nearly worthless, other than giving you warning of impending engine damage.

would this work to use the pocketlogger on?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...u=S195-2051%20P
or these http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/ca...c.asp?CatId=227

Quote (Lightning GSX, MARCH 31 2004, 12:25 AM)
Air/fuel ratio-Most production vehicles aim for a ~14.7:1 mixture, any leaner or richer and emissions increase rapidly.Best power is usually obtained at about 12 or 13:1.

EGT temps-In my opinion EGT temps are nearly worthless, other than giving you warning of impending engine damage.

Exactly, my point, few individuals on my case about egt's. You got it right. If your running too high egt's, like 14-16, way too hot and you got a bad set-up. I'm making 400whp at just 20psi with puny 20g turbo and my egt only go up to 13 under load. Plenty of guys making way more power with same egt, just bigger turbo. ;)

If I can give my 2 cents worth of advice remember once you start learning about tuning, you cannot just have a big turbo. Another 2/3 of cost for supporting mods and stronger engine to have a good set-up.

Oh noos, my setup must be aweful. I cruise under light load at 1400 F. :uh:

On the highway I usually sat right around 1400F too. At WOT I liked to keep it right around 1550-1600F and that was damn-near perfectly tuned. 1200-1300F is best kept for city-driving.

will the palms work for pocketlogger?

Palm M100 and M105 are cheap, basic, and get the job done perfectly.

alright, im going to have to purchase one of those now :bounce:

so do you have a car now? 1G or 2G? the software and cables are different for logging...

NO, my parents are tripping. well at least my mom is. she is all like get a 4 door the insurance is cheap. but i dont want a galant but i could get it, but dont want it. so im looking for a 1g with low miles i think i found one and i have to negotiate with my moms. have to try to convince her that the insurance on a eclipse isnt going to be that much more then the gvr-4. 2g cost to much. so im just looking for a 1g. you guys think the gvr-4 will be ok?
AHHHHHHHHHHHH :rant:

Quote (Jason @ may 9, 2004)
QuoteThe (from Ford performance sight on turbo's and intercoolers)
My egt sensor is connected to manifold off of #1 cylinder. Don't have bad set-up if running 14-16 egt under load, but if you have cooler inlet temp. you will have more power becuase lower egt. Last 2 sentences from quote prove inlet air temp directly relates to egt temps. This is basic thermal dynamics. Another reason I believe my egt lower then others is because shorter duration and lift of my exhaust cam. All this is healthy talk about egt's, timing, a/f ratio, etc. You can have perfect air/fuel curve tuned correctly and have high egt or low egt. Every engine different. ;)