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I know that there are numerous people around here that are going to be running a fresh engine set-up this year, my question is: what are your plans for your break-in period? I know that there's the "golden rule" that the first 500 miles should be very easy going to break the engine in. Are all of you going to be starting out with your final bolt-ons (ie- large turbo & injectors) or are you going to start out with some smaller parts (ie- 14B & 450s)?
.....or does it even matter as long as you "take it easy??" Basically I'd like to hear some first-hand opinions about your engine break-in beliefs... :bounce: ....oh yeah, and if you post up stupid BS in this thead, I'm going to request mods/admins to delete it per my request :stick: Thanks!!!! :woowoo: |
Break in Secrets
This page gives a different view of what's considered not the way to break an engine in, but in reality, what is said there makes alot of sence. As some would say "Break it in like you intend to use it". :3gears: |
yeah, i agree with the super fast break in. break the damn thing in on the dyno! people have had good results doing so
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i guess that loaner car that hyundai gave me for a day should be doing good then. had 2 miles on it when i got it. at the end of the day it had about 60 miles. at least one of those miles was doing burnouts. redlined it a few times and did a little power shifting.
stupid hyundai |
I havn't brook in many car engines, but i have brook in a lot of bikes and sleds. On all of my bikes and race sleds i have beat the shit out of them from the start. I let it warm up and giver hell. I have never had problems with this method. I have competely rebuilt moters at the track on my sleds and the first thing they see is wide open racing. i agree with that method and i would use it on a car engine.
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i was at the ford plant in minneapolis (or where ever it is) and they take the trucks right from assembly line to a dyno.
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Quote:
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Take it out after making sure there are no leaks. Accelerate up to the speed limit and then let off the gas and coast leaving it in gear. Do this several times in the first 20 miles to seat the rings. Then change the oil, change again at 100 miles, 500 miles and then put in synthetic at 1000 miles if you prefer.
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This as with many things is dependant on how the motor was built. There are variables involved including the RA factor of the finish hone, ring selection etc. It is possible to build a motor that will be broken in within the first 20 minutes. Personally I believe in the more abusive type breakin as well.
Plateau honing alone cuts the breakin time considerably. Taking it further by going with quicker seating rings and lower RA's really can cut things down a lot. Do a search on google for "plateau honing" if you want more info. The machinist we go through can give us just about any RA we request. On a side note, it does help to have round bores. (think torque plate) |
IMO motor break in is way overated. We had Burgess 91 TSI on the dyno w/23 miles on the motor. Made 451 whp w/ roughly 30 miles on the motor. I was boosting 20 psi on my motor after 15 minutes. But you dont have totakemy word for it do as you please, its your motor, just giving my opinions. Also both motors are still running perfect.
Nick Straight Line Specialties |
Re: Engine Break-in Question
Major thread resurrection but, interesting article (granted it is about aircraft engines):
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main...neBreakIn.html On a side note, what the hell ever happened to Bucky? |
Re: Engine Break-in Question
All S2k engines are revved to 9k before being installed in the car to ensure the engine and VTEC is working/running/engaging properly. My personal feeling is, with today's technologies, people think WAY too much into break-in and should just drive the thing. This is regarding new from the factory engines, but modern engines don't even need the first oil change any earlier than the regular interval. A lot of companies even use a special moly-additive in the factory oil so its beneficial to leave that oil in until 3-7k depending on how you drive and the conditions (per owner's manual).
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