Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

So i got a longblock from nick, it has an o'reillys knock sensor in it, i don't believe in parts store stuff for some things and this is one of them.
My friend was telling me that mitsu uses rebadged stuff for their sensors, but i said i don't care its worth the few dollars to know that i am getting something that will work with the rest of the car guaranteed.

Anywho i have my old knock sensor so i am planning on switching to that.

REASON: Been trying to tune the car for the last couple of days on and off, and no matter what, anything past 10-15% throttle between 2000-3200 rpms the knock sensor basically eats its face up to 15deg knock retard.

PLAN: switch out knock sensor, double check everything is in check, pray this fixes it and maybe turn knock sensor up.

Settings are: above 20% throttle and 2000rpm.

Thanks

Aaron

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

I am sure the same manufacturer that makes Mitsu's stuff also makes the generic OEM replacements sold at parts stores, but I agree with you on using "Mitsu" stuff for the important parts since at least you know you're getting one of the better quality sensors since the part stores sell so many different brands (some good, some bad). Also, make sure you torque the knock sensor properly.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

Agreed on proper torquing. I don't remember what it's supposed to be, but it's pretty light. If you torque it too hard it will be too sensitive and read excessive knock.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

maybe i should try torquing it correctly first then put the other one in if that doesn't work.

Any tuners care to guess? This shit is really fucking my day up.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

Swap it out, torque doesn't make enough difference to peg the sensor for no reason. I only like Mitsu stuff for sensors like that.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

sweet, switcheroo countdown 10 mins.

Thanks.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

I wouldn't try using anything but a real OEM sensor for something like knock. They need to be calibrated exactly for what the ECU is looking for. I can't say I have ever seen a problem for a knock sensor being too tight, maybe from being too loose.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

Sorry
I would normaly put a Mitsu sensor in but I was lazy and didn't think I'd be selling the motor, don't worry I wasn't lazy with anything else. It's all mitsu except teh knock sensor. It did work fine on the 14b and stock parts. I wonder if the swap messed it up.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

OK - Thanks for chiming in with the advice all, i put the mitsu one in and basically no change, not as bad.

I think i have Phantom knock, but i have no idea how to tell, it knocks between 2-3k.

Would you all like some logs maybe?

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

logs would help

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

I know that brains, that is why i went out and made some.

I have attached a few cruise logs and wot logs.

Note LTFT mid pegged at 10% I messed with airflow and such with no luck. Messed with deadtime and it destroyed my idle.

I am pretty sure that i will be starting again this weekend and dedicating a full day to just tuning.

well i guess it won't let me.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

Mabye it's time to go to the dyno. Hell of alot faster than geussing.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

I hear you on that one, but i don't know anyone that will dial all that shit in.
I have to call the locals and see what they say.
After the full day if i don't get anywhere i guess i will have to pay.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

Warning: This post turned into a long rant.

I have to dial in the airflow and deadtime on almost every DSMLink car that I do, especially if it's running a MAFT with it's poor metering. It might not be 100% perfect, since I only have a limited amount of time with the car, but I try to get it very close in the areas that you actually would drive in. Usually it's good enough that you could get by without an O2 sensor, I have done a bunch with bad or flaky O2 sensors that we just had to put the car into fulltime openloop anyways. DSMLink doesn't offer nearly as many MAF airflow points as an EPROM tuned ecu nor full fuel and timing maps, so you can't dial it in quite as finely.

I had the 4th or 5th DSMLink made and have been tuning them for a while. I know that playing with the timing slider in the 0-4000 RPM area can adversly affect your part throttle. That changing the fuel sliders usually does nothing until you are WOT and have a lot of airflow, I see tunes all the time where people try to use the fuel sliders in the lower RPMs to try to add fuel and it does nothing, often it they do nothing even at WOT until you have a few pounds of boost. I know about the 2G quirk of long term fuel trims affecting WOT fueling and how to fix it. I have also tuned DSMLink cars with no knock sensor, which actually sucks and defeats one of the main reasons to run DSMLink in the first place.

I can't tune a car that is broke though. 75+% of DSMs that come in for tuning have a major boost leak. Sensors need to actually be working right. They shouldn't overheat constantly, the cooling system needs to be able to pressurize to raise the boiling point, so no leaks, a good radiator cap and thermostat are usually needed. No thermostat or a stuck open one will make them take longer to warm up and then not cool as well once it's warmed up. If you are pushing coolant, then you probably have a blown headgasket, it isn't uncommon for a DSM to have a barely blown headgasket because of a poor sealing surface, bad install, knock or whatever and run perfectly fine and not smoke, but push some under boost which eventually leads to overheating when that space in the cooling system is now full of air. It usually doesn't hurt power either, it just annoying to have to fill it up all the time and have it start overheating every pass. BTW, I don't copper spray headgaskets either nor do I retorque headstuds. I have run over 40psi on cars without pushing any coolant, the surfaces need to be perfectly flat though and clean enough to lick. If you do want to spray your headgasket, copper spray isn't the thing to use, there are better options.

Re: Knock sensor - Mitsu or parts store
 

Thanks for the info.

It is much appreciated. You have pm.