Re: Project Lex
 

You should flip the angle brackets over so the angle portion is facing down. Cleaner IMO but probably wont be seen anyways. Looking good! Now those head studs right? Shouldnt take more then a few hours :)

Re: Project Lex
 

Can't flip it over, the weld on the IC hits the angle before it can sit all the way down.

Headstuds, I'll do that after I get the EMS working ;)

Also just ordered some more chinese CXRacing goodness! Just a universal 2.5" piping kit for the FMIC piping. I decided on 2.5" instead of 3" as the smaller piping will simply be easier to plumb/route. And I only ever had 2.5" on my Talon. If in the future when I'm running high amounts of boost, if I feel 2.5" is hindering me then I will maybe consider changing it out then. But for now, 2.5" is my choice.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330491362847

And picked up a 6-pack of reducer couplers as those will be needed to transition from 3" inlets and the 2.5" piping.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HSCM

Re: Project Lex
 

Hey you should call me sometime when you're working on this. I wanna come check it out and possibly get motivated to do something too!

Re: Project Lex
 

Sure thing. I'm kind of a slow worker now a days however, and since I have all winter to get this done I usually just go pretty slow, make sure it's all right. So it can get kind boring :) But maybe I'll shoot you a ring once I start throwing the turbo on.

Re: Project Lex
 

Got a bunch of the ABS shit, removed. Now I need to finish ripping out all the brake lines, find some Tee's (supposedly off a 93-96 Corolla), and run all new lines. I've never ran new brake lines so this will be a learning experience. I think I need some kind of flaring tool. Anyone ever done brake lines before?

Re: Project Lex
 

For flaring the lines you should be able to just rent the tool from oriely's. And I would for sure put some solid bracing on the bottom of your FMIC. You dont want all that weight hanging just off the top two bolts. Could cause a crack over time.

Re: Project Lex
 

I have, its not that fun. I have a small tool for bending the line.

I want to get this for flaring line:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCwQ8wIwAA#

Re: Project Lex
 

I may have to borrow that from you sometime! I just watched a bunch of YouTube videos on making brake lines, so I should be an expert now :)

Re: Project Lex
 

No, I don't have it.

I was just saying after my last experience with flaring brake line, I discovered this tool and I WANT to get it.

Re: Project Lex
 

I was referring to the bender you said you had.

Re: Project Lex
 

Sorry, not feeling the best today.

Re: Project Lex
 

Try taking a pewp, it helps me sometimes.

Re: Project Lex
 

Yeah thats a decent kit, close to the one I have, they are super handy to have, not something you use a lot but when you need it, its nice. I made all new brake lines for my camper this past season, saved me $750, so it paid for itself in that use alone.

For most of you guys it wouldn't be worth it though, because unless you are doing a custom line of some sort you can buy prebent lines fairly cheap.

Re: Project Lex
 

^Can I borrow that from you?
B-man I'll grab that bender next time we meet.

Re: Project Lex
 

Nice. Yeah in my case there are no pre-bent lines as everything came with abs. So I have to make/run all new stuff.

One thing I'm confused on, is the guy who'd done this before said to go to Autozone and get 3/16 metric line. Sounds like an oxymoron to me, haha. So do I need some kind of special metric line? And then does that mean I need some kind of metric flaring tool?

Re: Project Lex
 

the fittings will be metric, I believe thats what the metric part refers too, while the line diameter/flare size is 3/16".

So their bender will work you won't need a special one.

Re: Project Lex
 

3/16" line is not metric. It's also pretty big, that's what I used for my fuel line from the tank to the filter.

Re: Project Lex
 

Yes it is, that's what I used for the abs bypass line on my flatty. The tubing size, and flare is all SAE, it just has metric threads

Re: Project Lex
 

Gotcha. So yeah it appears I need 3/16" line, and metric fittings that appear to be M10x1.0. So also need two M10x1.0 tee's. All the junkyards I typically go to now charge to enter the yard, making it pretty worthless to try and find these little pieces there then. Might just try to find some Tee's at the hardware store, or online.

Re: Project Lex
 

Just use vacuum hose and plastic fittings. It's safe.

Re: Project Lex
 

ECU notes for myself:

http://mkiv.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php...-Harness-Clone

Re: Project Lex
 

Just ordered up a couple more things from MAP. Great prices thanks Chris!


Pro Sport Boost Gauge (30-0-30):
http://www.maperformance.com/prospor...rformance.html


Depo Wideband Gauge/kit. Helluva price, never seen a WBO2 kit (w/ gauge) for this cheap before. And the gauge is a perfect match to the Pro Sports :) :
http://www.maperformance.com/depo-ra...-52772led.html

Re: Project Lex
 

WOW that's a great price on that wideband. I'll have to keep that in mind.

Re: Project Lex
 

Aren't you going to max out that boost guage :p

Re: Project Lex
 

Good price indeed, although an AEM is only 10 bucks more now-a-days.

http://www.maperformance.com/aem-ana...-30-5130w.html

Re: Project Lex
 

Yup, but on the Depo one, the gauge is the same as the Prosport, which is why I chose that. I'd like to keep all my external gauges as similar looking as possible, rather than having a hodge podge of different brands like I had in my Talon (SW, Greddy, Autometer, PLX...). Trying to keep it as clean looking as possible :D

Re: Project Lex
 

Ha, yeah I hear ya. I actually spent a bit of time trying to figure out what to do because ideally I'd want a gauge that goes to 35 or 40psi. Problem is, I wanted to keep my gauges as similar as possible. So I didn't want to end up with another 40psi Stewart Warner, with some other brand WB, and a different brand EGT, and some other brand Oil Pressure. And I didn't want one that is boost only (no vacuum), so finding one greater than 30psi that also shows vacuum, with other matching gauges was hard. So I just settled on this as I will have a loggable MAP sensor in Megasquirt which will tell me my boost above 30psi. And I'm thinking since the gauge is mechanical, that if I go beyond 30, the needle will continue to wrap around. So I can see 35psi on the MAP sensor, and look at the gauge and just note to myself that "35 is when the needle is on the 's' in boost" or something, so I can still kinda know what's going on there :) I don't ever really plan to go much beyond 35psi. If that day comes, well then that may be the day I decide to go with a different boost gauge. But I forsee this one being just fine for me in the end :D

Re: Project Lex
 

Great gauge, I've got the Amber version in my car. The thing I'll note is that you don't want to use the included tee, it's got a restrictor outlet that severely cuts down the responsiveness and accuracy of the gauge.

Re: Project Lex
 

Noted, thanks :)

Re: Project Lex
 

I run 37psi on my 30psi gauge, works out great, lol, just pegs at 30 the whole time.

I am in the same boat though, can't decide what to do for a gauge that reads up to 40-45psi and a matching AFR one to go with it...someday I will get around to buying that stuff.

AEM maybe? It's one I am considering, I think their gauge goes up to 35psi or one of theirs does.

Re: Project Lex
 

Is yours mechanical or electronic? The one I got is mechanical, so I'm hoping the needle continues to sweep past 30psi, and doesn't just peg at 30.

Re: Project Lex
 

You could consider wiring in one of the Evoscan NAV displays. It'd read your MAP sensor for voltage and you'd do the conversion.

http://www.evoscan.com/gpsnav

Re: Project Lex
 

Mine is electrical which is why it stops at 30...the mechanical one keeps going, at least Jakes did in his evo.

The evoscan thing seems unnecessary.

Re: Project Lex
 

This entire hobby is unnecessary.

Re: Project Lex
 

Maybe the Evo X talk in the SC300 project thread is unnecessary? lol

jus sayin'



Touche, didn't really think of that. :)

Re: Project Lex
 

Same reason I got all amber Prosport gauges for the Evo, that way they match each other as well as the gauge cluster. Cleanliness is like godliness, and godliness is, well, what we Mitsu (and ex-Mitsu) owners do best. :D

Re: Project Lex
 

35psi in the 2jz holy schnauzer what HP are you shooting for?

Re: Project Lex
 

I have a couple goals. Goal one is to just have this running decently on WG pressure this upcoming summer. And at that I hope to be in the 350-400 range. Then the following summer (when I have money and time to upgrade the drivetrain) I hope to turn it up to around 35psi and get 600-650 out of it. Then will probably turn it down to 30 or so for a safe street tune.

I think both those goals are very achievable, especially in the hands of Shane on the dyno :) He's magical!

Re: Project Lex
 

OK so like it was pointed out earlier, I got the wrong WG for my manifold. It appears mine is flanged for a 50mm HKS wastegate from what I've been told.

My question now is, from what I've read the HKS 50mm gate is supposed to have a firing ting that is built into the flange. But my manifold flange does not have that. So WTF? Stupid Chinese maybe? I'm about ready to say screw that flange and cut it off and have someone weld on a flange for a Tial.

Here's a picture showing the firing ring built into the flange that I thought this is stupposed to have:
http://www.manufacturer.com/cimages/..._Wastegate.jpg

Re: Project Lex
 

That fire ring piece does not get welded to anything, it just gets put in between the manifold flange and the wastegate.

It shouldn't take anywhere near 35psi to reach 600whp, unless your turbo or the rest of the setup really sucks. You can reach 600whp with a 4 cylinder with less than 35psi.