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Re: Project Lex
I hope you're right :) I'm just basing my goals on my experience with my Talon (completely different car but about all I can personally compare to). This turbo is similar to the one I had on my Talon. Compared to the S362 I had on the Talon, this 84-75 I have for this car has an ever so slightly smaller comp wheel (appx 0.5mm smaller I believe), but a better exhaust side. And the Talon made 628 dynojet at 35psi, so that's pretty much all I'm basing my goal off. If you blow my goal away on the dyno (like you did with my Talon), well then you won't hear any complaints from me :)
Your dyno in 2wd mode reads a little closer to the dynojet numbers correct? |
Re: Project Lex
You cant compare your old 4 cylinder with a 6 cylinder offering 1 more liter of displacement. :P
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Re: Project Lex
I agree, plus this setup will have higher compression (10:1 vs. 8.5:1).
But on that same note, from what I've gathered is while the 2JZ may be strong, it isn't nearly as efficient of a design as Mitsu motors. So while it does have more displacement, that doesn't directly correlate to 1L of additional power over a 4G63. And in the end it's all I personally can compare it to as I've never been around 2JZ setups before. So what's a cracka to do... ;) |
Re: Project Lex
I was going to say because there are guys barely in the 40psi range with way over 1000hp on a 2jz. Go for 35psi anyways Brandon!
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And on what turbo? That DB Evo is at 1000hp too. Is it a similar turbo? To me it just seems like a lot of Evo guys make similar power, with similar turbos, to some Supra guys. So that additional liter doesn't equal a bunch of more top end power when compared to a 4G63. A little more, maybe, but not as huge as you'd think. And again, that's me watching youtube videos and reading on forums. I have no first hand experience, which is why I'm saying at this point the only real thing I can compare to is my Talon. Time will tell. 600hp is still so far away, so I try to not even think about it really haha. |
Re: Project Lex
Yea, our dyno in 2wd mode reads close to a Dynojet. The extra liter of displacement helps a lot with power and spoolwise, but yes it isn't as efficient. They don't have very good heads or cams, and most of the normal aftermarket cams people run in them are weak compared to other cars, but they still gain decent power. The factory intake manifolds suck at making high RPM power, but most guys don't try to rev them that high anyways.
10.0:1 compression and 35psi with only E85 might not work the best. The 8.5:1 Supra motors have a harder time fighting detonation than a 8.5:1 DSM motor, which has a much harder time with knock than an Evo, STi or Honda. |
Re: Project Lex
Yeah I don't want to rev super high either. I still have to figure out what a decent RPM to rev to would be with stock valvetrain, and minnimal clutch dragging.
As for the rest of it, thanks for the input. I still plan on sticking with the 10:1 stock compression for now as that keeps the quench design exactly as was engineered from the factory. So I guess we will just see how she does. If we don't make it safely to 35psi, that's OK because with the higher comp ratio, I should be making the power a lower comp motor at 35psi would make, at a lower leve like 30 or whatever that works out to be. And of course it's a never ending project, so depending on results, everything is subject to change someday :) |
Re: Project Lex
The turbo or fuel system will probably max before 35psi anyways.
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Re: Project Lex
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TB showed up in the mail today. Very clean, pretty happy with it's condition!
Also after quite a few conversations back n forth with Shane, decided I will be ordering up some injectors from them (DBPerformance) here shortly. So thanks to him for taking time to help me choose some suitable, yet affordable, injectors that should work for my goals. What we decided on were the 900cc High Z EV14 injectors that FIC is selling. They claim that they flow the same as "other companies 1000cc" injectors. So I'm assuming they are referring to the ID1000's. We shall see. I will end up pushing these pretty far, but they should work for my setup and goal. If they start to run out of room, I can always just look into a Fuel Pump setup that allows me to run higher base fuel pressure. Here's a link to the injectors: http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/cg...ey=IS145-0900H Also been speaking more with the Megasquirt guy. Right now I'm on the fence of possibly going with the new (still in beta) MS3 setup that is "supposed" to rival some of the higher class tuning systems such as Motec. And of course for a fraction of the cost :) We'll see what I decide on, but I will be deciding soon as I need to get that going asap. |
Re: Project Lex
Just run a thicker headgasket, that should get the CR down a hair while maintaining the factory design.
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Just got finished talking to Jordan (the MS guy) over AIM and decided on a setup. I'll be ordering up all the parts myself. Once it all arrives and I'm ready to install, Jordan will then be helping me with instructions to wire this up to the car as he's done quite a few MS setups on SC300's, and is currently running MS3 on his SC300. It's hard to explain, but this will be used in parallel (tandem) with the stock ECU. Don't confuse that with being a piggyback however. What Jordan's method does is leaves the small basic things for the stock ECU to retain control of. Things such as A/C and other accessory functions, even some of the idle stuff will still be ECU controlled I believe. However all the engine vital controls such as fuel control, ignition timing, things such as no lift to shift and what not, that will all be fully controlled by the Megasquirt with no stock ECU interference. I honestly like this idea as it lets the stock ECU still maintain control of the basic stuff that its good at controlling, and leaves the Megasquirt in full control over everything else.
Here's a rundown of the parts I'll be looking at getting: MS3 ECU w/ MS3X expansion fully assembled: $640 (could be had cheaper if you want to do the assembly yourself) http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...led-p-435.html 4-bar MAP sensor upgrade: $65 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ion-p-117.html Megasquirt Wiring Pigtail $48 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1...ess-p-114.html MS3x Expansion Board Wiring Pigtail: $55 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1...ess-p-454.html Then I'll be running the free tuning software application called Tuner Studio Lite. If I later decide to, I may upgrade to the registered version for $35 to unlock some of the advanced features like their "auto tune" feature and what not. Here's a little peak at what the software is like: http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStudio/ http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStu...ages/LEDsm.png http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStu...eAnalyzeSm.png http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStu...tuningAids.png |
Re: Project Lex
Sweet, once you get that megasquirt set up, lemme know. =) That's a helluva lot cheaper than an AEM.
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That's pretty badass B-Dog, would like to eventually run a megasquirt to replace my stupid Suby ECU.
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Just ordered the Megasquirt from DIYAT. :) Almost decided to get the parts and build it myself to save $200, but just decided to spend the extra to have it assembled and tested by them to alleviate any chance of me screwing something up during assembly.
Also realised they sell 18" pigtails for a little cheaper than the 12' harnesses I originally linked. So that saved me about $40 also. Links have been updated in the prior post :D After shipping and everything, right around $800 total. Could have done MS2 for about $350 less, but Jordan talked me into MS3 as it's supposed to be the shiggity big down! $800 for something equivalent to other $2000+ systems go for. |
Re: Project Lex
Swap in a 4G63?
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^STFU noob! lol
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Exhaust housing has been dropped off at Primo to get some high temp black coating done :) Thanks guys!
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IC Piping and all the couplers showed up :)
Also, I fu(king give up on the metric M10 x 1.0 Tee's. Nobody sells them, and I'm not going to tromp through a foot of snow at the junkyard looking for these on some other cars. So I ordered two of these from Vatozone. So I will be using 3/16" brake line, and on the Tee end it will be standard 3/8-24 fittings, but on the other ends it will be the M10x1.0 fittings that go into the OEM components. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1366137 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291682129 |
Re: Project Lex
Chynaaaaa!!!!!!! lol
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Got a little bit done today.
This is the fuel tank evap line that went into the charcoal canister which is now under my workbench never to be installed again. I cut this line back so it ends underneath the car. May do something more with that later but it's fine for now. So here you can see that evap line that I removed. Also that is where the stock ABS and charcoal canister used to be, so I have a nice big empty corner there now :) http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291780568 Picked up a Tee Fitting (3/8-24) from Vatozone. So on the Tee side they will be standard fittings, but on the car components they will still be metric to mate up to their respective components. Bought two lengths of 3/16" line from Vatozone as well. This is some sort of copper alloy which is nice to use as it's easy to bend. I still have to flare one end of it but you can basically see how it is routed here. This is the Tee for the front brakes. So it will just leave the master cylinder, go into the Tee and from there two lines will come out (1 for pass side and 1 for drv side). So that is the only line I've made so far, but I consider it a success as I worked slow to try and make it as nice as possible, and it was the first line I've ever made before so it's not perfect, but not bad for the first time :) http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291780568 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291780568 So 1 line down. Figure I can slowly just work on and aim for 1 line a day, and then the brakes should be done. |
Re: Project Lex
I like that copper line, its almost gold like!! lol
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Re: Project Lex
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Front brake lines are all mocked up. All I need to do is some flaring which I think is going to suck, haha. Here's some pics, showing how the line is routed.
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...5&d=1291951586 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 The line from the bottom of the Tee, coming down then bent right under the brake booster, then bent straight again to continue going towards the front of the car http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 Same bend as shown above, but from further back so you can see the last bend that takes it through the gromet and into the fender well http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 Drv Side Fender Well, mating to the stock flex line that goes to the caliper http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 Back to the Tee, showing the line that runs along the firewall towards the passenger side http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 Line along the firewall, now on the passenger side. http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 Showing the bends that take it into the fender well http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1291951601 Pass side fender well. http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...5&d=1291951801 |
Re: Project Lex
Nice. So are the brakes all proportioned correctly doing this then?
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Re: Project Lex
Yes, the proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder.
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Megasquirt has arrived. Pic attached
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Pinouts 2jz-ge ecu pinout: http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...SAFCTHING2.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...SAFCTHING3.jpg MS3 wiring diagrams: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1...ess-p-114.html http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1...ess-p-454.html --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MS3 and MS3x board settings for stock VR style cam/crank sensors MS3 JP1 - jumper 1&2 J1 - jumper 3&4 Both Pots turned all the way down (CCW) MS3x JP7 - jumper removed Both Pots turned all the way down (CCW) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MS3 and MS3x wiring *wire the items in BLUE font* *all ECU wiring was tapped (not cut) unless labeled as CUT* Fuel Injectors (CUT) #1 ECU 20 - A MS3x 19 #5 ECU 16 - B MS3x 16 #3 ECU 18 - C MS3x 13 #6 ECU 15 - D MS3x 10 #2 ECU 19 - E MS3x 7 #4 ECU 17 - F MS3x 4 firing order 1–5–3–6–2–4 A to cly 1 B to cly 5 C to cly 3 D to cly 6 etc TPS VTA1 ECU 43 - MS3 22 (use this) IDL1 ECU 64 (idle for ECU, don't wire this into MS) Power IGN ECU 1 - MS3 28 Distributor NE ECU 27 - MS3 24 - Main Tach/Crank Input to ECU Either G1 or G2 for Cam Input, I used G2 G1 ECU 26 G2 ECU 25 - MS3x 32 - Tooth angle is 0 on gte and ge for G2 Igniter IGT ECU 57 - MS3x 14 (CUT) IGF ECU 58 (CEL feedback, don't wire this into MS) Water Temp ECU 44 - MS3 21 Intake Air Temp ECU 45 - MS3 20 Wideband MS3 23 Knock Sensors Rear ECU 49 Front ECU 50 (Unsure where to wire these atm) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Misc Good Info http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/trigger-wheel.html http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf108.jpg |
Re: Project Lex
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Re: Project Lex
Hmmm... maybe it comes with Ms. Pacman already on it :)
Anyhow no real big update. Spent the weekend in Fargo so wasn't able to do much. However Dave Henry (black redonk na-t supra) was kind enough to let me and the g/f stop by his place to chat for a little while this weekend. I picked up a drain line flange from him that'll bolt to the oil pan so one more small part to add to the stash of parts in the garage. Kind of cool to see some of the stuff he's doing, as well as some nice carnage. |
Re: Project Lex
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Didn't have much time today, but was able to go to my cousins today and borrow his flaring tool. I removed that first upper line and decided to just give this flaring tool a shot while laying in bed. One end was already flared, so I only had to flare one end. So here's my pics of the process of applying a double flare to the line. Was pretty simple, and took only a couple minutes. Turned out just fine it looks like. I suppose the real test will be once it's installed and hopefully doesn't leak.
Break out your professional deburring tool: http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 Use the die to measure the correct amount of line is protruding out of the clamp http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 First flare created with the die http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 Use cone to make the double flare http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 Double flare done http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1292386959 Also, the stereo company from Chiyyna shipped out a new stereo to me, that should arrive here in the next few days. Hopefully this one lasts a little bit longer than the last one. It cost me $68 to ship it back to them, then another $10 to send me a new one. They won't reimburse any of that. BS in my opinion, but not much I can really do. Just hope this one works better. |
Re: Project Lex
Good work. Shit's pro, son!
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Re: Project Lex
Nice work on the lines! Custom brake lines have always been kindof a mystery to me.
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Re: Project Lex
damnit wrong thread lol sorry.
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Re: Project Lex
Thanks for all the kind words! And yeah my first time delving into brake lines as well. Really not that tough. Especially with this copper alloy line i'm using, they're very easy to bend. And the flaring was a sinch. But again, the true test will be when they are all hooked up, and see if they leak or not.
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Re: Project Lex
I thought for a second your flaring tool was the giant buck knife. That would have been skill to do a double flare with that.
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Re: Project Lex
I like all the rust on it, I wonder what else you use that for? hmmm...
Looks good. I found this: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/an...113521203.html $380 - Pioneer http://images.craigslist.org/3nf3k43...85665b11c8.jpg Might be something to look at? Pretty close to the price of that chickedy china unit. |
Re: Project Lex
^ that doesnt have NAV...
Good luck on the new chyna unit. Sucks you had to pay more, but with electronics I usually stick to the proven brands for a little more money. Less hassle in the end. |
Re: Project Lex
^You are right, my bad I thought it said it had Nav or maybe it was a diff. ad.
Might be worth a call to see what he can do for one with NAV. This has steered me away from the chyna bay stereos, I have my eye on a nice alpine flipout for my ride next year. |
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