Re: my new project
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Re: my new project
If gases only go through one scroll vs. two it would effectively cut the A/R in half would it not?
Edit, FP is having Holiday sales on their BB 3788 ($1700), BB 3794 ($1700, JB 4294 ($1500), and JB 4205 ($1500) turbos. All are T4. Ball bearing Journal bearing |
Re: my new project
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Now that i think about it A/Rs on divided exhaust housing are kind of strange to compare because they realistically have a separate A/R for each scroll. Hmmm brains. When i said what i said above i didnt have a dual scroll exhaust housing in mind. now i do! Carry on! |
Re: my new project
Also I will probably be running a gt42 style turbo with a top mount manifold so I might run into fitment issues with the hood
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FWIW, a friend of mine runs a QSV on his poopra with a Comp billet 67mm. I believe he said it cut roughly 5-600 rpm off his spool time when it was setup correctly.
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Switch to DSMLink.
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I've never used one first-hand, so couldn't speak on any sort of actual RPM increase. I think they are in the 300-400 dollar range.
Check out youtube videos of Sound Performance Supra's, they have some where they compare with and without QSV dyno charts. Flopster, I think you figured it out on your own :) But if anyone else is still confused, yes you reduce the "A" by blocking off one of the scrolls. So if you're A/R was .90 (90/100), and you block off one port, you would have reduced the A (90) to a lower number say 50. So your A/R is now .50 (50/100). I am not a mechanical/math master, so I don't know if it's exactly cut in half or what. But it is significantly reduced. |
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Idk how I missed this but I think the jb hta4294 would be a good realistic option too. If I had the funds right now that bb3794 would be a real option too that's a good deal! |
Re: my new project
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Here's a little update. On the engine I have basically everything I can assemble right now minus the manifolds. And still waiting on funds to have the cams degreed and get the couple parts needed to put her back in.
I was feeling kind of ambitious today so instead of buying a full blown pump hanger I decided to rewire mine with 10g wire. I got the stock plastic plug where the stock wires go into the sender out and drilled it bigger then ran then 10g wire in and jb welded it closed. This should help a lot with the voltage drop to the pumps almost all the crimp connectors in the tank were loose and it was 14g wire in the tank. I used crimp connectors to connect them to the pumps but I also soldered them so they can't loosen up. It will also get rid of the multiple connections coming in and out of the sender as well as using the rusty sender as a ground. There are also multiple wire size changes coming into and out of the fuel pump relay. I will be rewiring all of that too so there is a good clean power supply to the pumps. |
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Hanger looks good. I always thought thr full blown was a waste of money.
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http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc40...ke-a-look.html
That's like a sore dick, can't beat that shit! |
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Damn! I wish I had the funds! I might have to see what I can do to scrape some up
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I put some new strainers on the pumps and got the sending unit installed and rewired the relay to day. I just need some eyelets so I can finish the grounds for the pumps. It's all cleaned up now. Unfortunately I forgot to take before pictures
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I was not talking about the pte 6766 but it does flow more. If you want something that bolts right up have you thought about sending your turbo to pte and getting the 72mm billet wheel put on it? |
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