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So tonight I test drove a '92 Red Laser AWD 5 speed. Runs well, turbo burns oil, 1-2 syncro is shot, and possibly has a balancer shaft bearing going out but the owner has a pile of receipts for work done in the last 20,000 miles a inch thick. The only modification is a K&N. The car only has 95,000 miles on it. The drivers side door has some damage along with the drivers side fender and rear quarter panel. Interior is in overall great shape and it has a non-leaking sunroof. He'd take $900 and throw in a new fender for the driver's side. It also has a clean title.
Whatcha all think? |
Under a grand AND under a 100k? Not too shabby, I'd take it. :bounce: Plus, it's a "Laser"
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I would grab that one up. You could get everything fixed, or do it yourself and make it a real steal. Either way, I would still jump at that one.
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Just because a car has a lot in repair work done it doesn't mean it is a good car. My car had $4800 in repairs at one shop in the prior 2 yrs before I bought it. It had a news turbo (16g which they charged her $1100 for), new transfercase (charged her $900 even though it would be covered in the recall), new clutch, etc. I drove the car 10 days before the clutch went out (not drivable) and it sat for a month until I could get together money to fix it. Now, things go wrong left and right on my car. 2nd gear synchro is shot (I pulled the tranny tonight), year old clutch is not holding any power, alternator went out, head gasket blew 2 days after fixing the alternator, etc. I wouldn't buy it soly on the thought that it has had maintainece done. Maybe the stack is because the car is a lemon.
I would do a compression test to see what is going on with the engine. Get a rebuild quote on the tranny and figure out all the money you are going to have to throw in the car and then add a grand for extra repairs. Add it up and see if it is worth it. You may be better off buying a decent running dsm for $3000. |
The compression what checked by a mechanic and was fine which is why the owner suspects the turbo is blowing some oil. The tranny is very driveable as it is.
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I would do the compression test myself. A mechanic pretty much sees if the numbers vary or not across the cylinders. Unlesss he is a dsm mechanic, odds are he doesn't know what is good. My old integra hit ~92-92-92-93 or something. Those were good numbers. My dsm hits 150's across the board, 90's is a very dead engine on a dsm. I believe 130 is the rebuild range. A average mechanic would see 130 across the board as good as the numbers do not vary much. Just my opinion.
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BTW, feel the turbo for shaft play. That will help you decide if it is a turbo problem.
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could be bad valve seals.
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Any other opinions out there to assist me?
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Definetely check the turbo for shaft play. Could be the turbo's on it's way out.
if there is no shaft play or bent fins, etc. then the oil could be coming from the head. In which you'd have to rebuild that to some extent. Syncro's are cheap enough - or you could just save a grand and ship it to Shep for him to rebuild. 92 lasers are the lightest of all years. Plus being it's AWD 5psd there wasn't that many made, let alone still driving on the streets. So that's a plus. is the fender paint matched to the rest of the car? if not you'd have to pay for paint. Figure: -$1000 shep tranny -$50 fender (what I sold mine for) -$150 - Door -$150+ for new turbo depending on what you go with -$500 Head rebuilt -$800 to fix rear quarter damage if it isn't to bad. Honestly you get what you pay for. If it was me I'd start with a car with a clean/perfect body. Then go from there. Everything else is easy enough to fix/Change out. -brian |
Well here's the maintenance record the current owner has...
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He also has the following parts which I bet I could get him to include the majority with the deal: Quote:
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i hope that it didnt have as much shaft play as ians old car jakey. then again, the shaft was sheared ;)
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I think you would be better off spending 3-grand to get a nice condition 1G. Lots of money in repairs could very well mean the owner beat the hell out of it...but it could also mean he babbied it and wanted it perfect. That is something that should become obvious after talking to the guy for only a matter of minutes. Nothing really extrodiany on the list of repairs he gave you with the exception of a rebuilt tranny....who rebuilt it and why didn't he have the 2nd gear grind fixed (warranty?)?
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From what I've been able to read, the current owner has absolutely babied the car. I've met with him twice and both times he was more than happy to tell me any and every detail about the car. As for the tranny, I didn't read my above post that close but the tranny wasn't rebuilt, it was from a junkyard.
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:ohmy: do it man!!!
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If you dont mind doing work here and there and getting into thiings when they break then go or it. It is a pretty good deal and if I found a laser like that Id swap it up.
If you cant do the work yourself then have some change on the side to pay for repairs or parts. |
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So what you're saying Tyler, is that your motor is blown?
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So please assist me with this list:
-Possible Causes for Burning Oil- *Shitty valve seals *Blown turbo *Bad rings I should mention that the car burns oil at the rate of approximately one quart per 300 miles. |
For that much oil to be burned that quick I would think it would be the turbo. Are there any leaks maybe? It is smoking blue out the exhaust right?
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I should add that I have not examined the engine bay very carefully to see if there are any obvious leaks which is something that I know I really need to do. |
Whoa, that is a lot of oil. One quart per tank of gas. I think you have the most likely causes down. Could be something like a seal on the front case or something... I would definitly do a compression test now. See where you are at. The numbers will be low if the valve seals are leaking or if the rings are shot. Feel the turbo next time you see it. See if it smokes after reving it. Rev the car at the throttle body to ~2500 rpm and check for smoke at the turbo.
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When my 14B died, it would blow blue smoke out the exhaust only when I was over 10 pounds of boost, then enough smoke comes out blind anyone behind me.
The valve seals were also bad, but when they were the only thing the was burning oil it was only letting out blue smoke when I started it up and when I sat at an intersection for awhile and then left. |
Yeah, I have seen the same senario as above. The turbo may blow out a puff of blue smoke by the exhaust manifold.
Sit the car at idle for a few minutes then move it and have a friend check for smoke out the exhaust. That would be valve seals. My car had that problem a while ago but still had good compression. |
Well when I expressed my concern about the oil burning problem here is what the owner said:
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Sounds like a blown HG to me if it is coolant and oil. A compression or leakdown test can tell you how the engine is. If that turns out fine, I would suspect the turbo.
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It's cheap, just buy it. It's not a life changing purchase. You can part it out for more than $900 if the car sucks. You are pretty damn indecisive Jakey, I remember the 50+ PM's I got about my $750 car. JoeM got a ton about the laser too. Just do it!
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Well I made my first DSM investment tonight. I'll try to get pictures up within a few days. It definitely needs some work but once I get the oil burning issue figured out I think it'll make a damn good beater.
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Awesome, post pics when you get a chance. Good luck with it.
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great job jakey!!! It sounds like it will be fun.
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great job jakey!!! It sounds like it will be fun.
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