I got tired of making a topic for some questions I've have or ran into, so I made this a post for all sorts of questions.

My most recent problem is that my valve cover is leaking oil from somewhere, but I dont know where. I checked the plug wires and looked into the spark plug holes, but there is no sign of oil leaks. I dont think I have any cracks in my valve cover, unless their just too small to see. It doesnt leak ALOT of oil, but enough to concern me about it.
Does anyone know where the leak is coming from?
Anyone know what a Blow-Thru set up is? I heard that was the only way to vent into the atmosphere, but I dont know what it is. Someone want to fill me in on this?
For those who have a Boost Gauge hooked up, how did you guys hook up you're boost gauge. I heard that there was another way other than to T it off the black and blue line.

Thanks alot if you can help me out one these questions. I've still got a alot left to learn about DSMs and this is the only place I can learn from...

This is what I have done so far to my car:
K&N filter
2.5" DP (PressBent) w/ Test Pipe
2.25" Test Pipe back piping (PB) into a 2.5" N1 exhaust
TurboXs HPBC (which isnt working too well :headache:)
Phantom Boost Gauge
Blitz DD BOV (on and off)

Where on the valve cover is it leaking? In the area around the spark plug holes, or around the outside of the head? Try replacing the valve cover gasket and maybe use a thin coat of oil resistant RTV.

Blow through is what it's called when you use a GM MAF sensor in place of the stock MAS. The MAF also uses a translator, also known as a MAF-T or MAF Translator, which converts the signal from the MAF to something that the ECU will recognize. There is no point in getting this just so you can "vent to the atmosphere". The stock BOV was routed back into the intake for a reason, and it should be left that way until your car is modified to a point where it's not necessary.

The boost gauge can be hooked up to any line that sees vacuum/boost. There are numerous lines coming off the intake manifold and throttle body that can be used.

How's the seal on your oil cap? That is a common place for an oil leak if the seal is bad.

The oil cap is still good, no leaking from there. I think I found where its leaking from, I was looking around and there is a small tiny .5" long crack right near where the spark plug wires are, no leaks on the outside of the head. The crack was so small that it was barely noticable. Anyone know how to fix that problem? :headache: (DSMs cost too much money...haha)

I only have the BOV on like once a month for a day or so, I was just wondering that that Blow-thru system was. I like how the stock BOV is so quiet, my car has no TSI or AWD badging on it so it almost looks like a non-turbo(almost ;) )...except I gotta find somewhere else to hide my boost gauge other than on the A-Piller.

JB Weld to fix the crack where oil is leaking. Check out SLS's site for all sorts of gauge mounting options. How exactly do you turn a BOV off?

What's their site url?

If I JB weld the small crack, my valve cover would have a chunk of JB weld just sitting there. I cant fill in the crack, because its way too small. All I can do is weld over it. But I'll probably have to end up doing that sooner or later. I'm still looking for more cracks or possible oil leaks on the cover.

Yeah, you'll just have to have a small glob of JB Weld on the valve cover....it is either that or find a good condition used one for sale. SLS's website is something like http://www.straightlinespecialties.com/

They have some cool bezels on that site. If I knew about that site before I bought my A-piller gauge mount, I would've gotten one of SLS's bezels. Ohh for that Super-AFC bezel that mounts into the center vents, does air still go through. I'd like to mount an AFC there someday, but it gets a little cold in the winter and I'll need the heat...haha.

Hey, is anyone selling a stock 1g valve cover? I'm looking for one, because mines has a crack on it and it leaks quite a bit of oil and I'm under boost.

I have one. PM me and we can talk price.

PM Sent.

I have another question:
Does the 2G stock wheels fit on the 1G? I'm looking for stock wheels to go back on my car, it came with 17" rims that are fading and falling apart. They look nice when they're moving realy fast, but if you look upclose when its parked then it looks like crap. I'm planning on buying stock wheels for my car sometime next Spring, so I still have a while to look for some.

2g wheels do fit a 1g. I suggest you check the oil cap gasket again. Feel if the gasket is nice and rubbery or if it is like plastic. If it is very hard, replace it. As far as the crack is concerned, replace the vc or JB it, have mike weld it and anodize it.

You can also mount the gauges and SAFC in the glove box.

I found out where the oil was leaking from now. There is this big crack on the top right of where the spark plug wires are. The more boost I'm at, the more it leaks. I already found some vc's that I'll just buy and replace before fall.

I wont be getting a S-AFC anytime soon, so I'll have time to figure out where I want to hide it. Plus, I have no alarm yet so I dont want it to be easily visible.

I just installed an Air Fuel gauge onto my car and its reading kinda weird. If I let the car sit for more than 15 mins all I get is really lean readings, it doesnt move at all. Then after a while it starts to move like normal again, then if I step on the gas a little and let off, the A/F gauge lights disappear beyond the red. I'm just wondering if this is normal, I've havent done any tuning with my air flow or anything.

One more thing, ever since I've got my downpipe put on I've been misfiring. It misfires alot if I hit redline and it misfires when I'm above 3K rpm and not stepping on my gas. At times I get a loud pop, other than that its mostly just lots of crackles on and off. But it doesnt misfire at WOT unless I hit max rpm.

This article may be of interest to you: http://www.dsmstyle.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4484
Hopefully that article will explain a little bit why narrowband A/F guages are in overall retrospect: worthless.

Whoa...that was some article. A little confusing, but it seemed right. So I'm guessing that I need to upgrade to a Wide Band o2, to fix the problem a little. I didnt read through the WHOLE thing yet, I just read what seemed more interesting. But thanks for the site.

hey, does anyone know where I can get a Valve Cover gasket? I've been slacking on replacing my valve cover, because I havent gotten the gasket yet. Since this will be the first time I've changed the valve cover, I'm not sure what I'll need. So if anyone can tell me everything I need and how easy/hard it is (it looks very easy)...that'd be awesome.

Just pull it off. Go to the dealer and get a gasket. Make sure you get the spark plug hole gaskets too at the same time otherwise the new out side gasket wont seal becuase the inside round ones will hold up your VC because they are hard.

Its about 50 bucks for the set of gaskets :headache:

:headache: :headache: :headache: :headache: :headache:
$50 bucks for just a set of gaskets? You're talking about the spark plug hole gaskets and the valve cover gasket, right?

What do you guys think is better for my next upgrade?

A Super-AFC II
Or
3" exhaust pipings from the testpipe back?

Right now I have 2.25" piping from a 2.5" testpipe to a 2.5" exhaust. I'll eventually get a 3" dp and exhaust, but thats plan for next spring. Oh...and any ideas what I should do next?

So, I just got my datalogger put in just like two days ago and I found out that I someiimes have 43 counts of knock. I currently have the MMCD and still dont know what many of those abbreviated words mean like FLG0 or FTRM. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what I can do to push my knock counts back down. Does the MMCD have an Air/Fuel Ratio monitor on there also? It kinda sucks when there arent instructions with the software and the net isnt helping either.

Turning down your boost is a good way some say. Puting higher oct gas in helps too from what the DSM gods tell me.

I have my boost set at 13, but it sometimes spikes to 18 and drops down to 16 when I downshift on the freeway. I always put 92 octane gas in her. Is it normal to be knocking when you're barely on the throttle, because when I press the gas alittle on the freeway, knock starts to jump and then when I floor it all the way, it doesnt have knock. If the Timing advance has anything to do with it then thats probably one of my problems, knock jumps up when my timing doesnt advance enough. I was running 16 lbs for a month or so with boost spike, I wonder how bad that must've been. So I'm a little confused with this knock stuff....exactly how bad is 43 counts of knock or any counts of knock at all? :headache: