Tubular chassis builder
 

I am looking for somebody who could build a tubular chassis for a DSM that the drivetrain, suspension, and exterior/dash could bolt up to. I know it's slow, expensive, and seemingly pointless but I don't care, I want it done. Any suggestions would be great and any advice from those that have gone tubular would be appreciated.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Race craft.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Paging: John LaCroix

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

TNT in Blaine has a chassis fab guy that does a lot of hot rod chassis.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Wow you guys rock! Thanks for the quick references. I'll get started with these but keep it coming.

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Bulfab has some pieces also, if not racecraft.

Is meanstreet still around?

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Is bulfab even around? He doesn't answer email.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

No Richard is no longer running his own shop (meandtreet), he now works for Race craft.

What happen with that black evo tube chassis from years back?

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

You could always fly a chassis guy in like Brent did. I think it was Gary Reese, who also did Buschur's. All I remember is that he had a long ponytail and didn't talk much. Most beautiful welding I've ever seen.

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I just bought the crossmember and mustache bar bullfab is still around!
but yes he doesnt answer emails

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He's in the shop making stuff, he's a one-man business, and it's part time.

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Ha, the only form of contact information provided on his site is a form you fill out and send to him with your email address, not sure how else you get ahold of the guy. Must not want work that bad.

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if your serious and got the money upfront i would contact bulfab hes 'Vassil' on here

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

I hope you have extremely deep pockets.

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keep in mind half the battle is getting through a nhra inspector/ cert (like I was), and the big RACECRAFT tag tacked onto the main hoop is pretty much a 30 second ordeal to get your sticker

for the purposes around our region, you're paying more for brand recognition and the associated credibility that comes with it, rather than top-notch work speaking for itself. This is in no way to say that any of the area fabricators don't produce exceptional work, but if you're looking for the least headache, especially at Brainerd, go with a big name.

If I ever took my '56 to someone, it would be to Kurt at http://www.autokraft.org/gallery/anderson/

this guy does the work, stands by it, and will line up next to you on bracket days

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something like this has gotta be well into the 5 figures right? Like 10-30k?

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I asked once what it would take to turn my car into a rwd and the figure I got was $45k

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

That sounds like someone wanted you to go away :P I would expect ~$15k for something like this.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

I'll find him and contact him for sure, thanks!
I also contacted the fab team that did the green 240 drift car at MAP's show and he estimated roughly 6K give or take for taking the shell and adding in a tubular skeleton throughout allowing all the stock stamped metal to still serve as mounts and shaping, yet have the rigidity needed to not worry about strut rust, floor pan damage/repair, etc. The issue I felt with going with that option was simply the feeling that cars or at least street cars weren't their biggest markey/forte along with a long time frame which didn't bother me however.


I am l looking to actually keep the AWD and just keep the basic features. I know that since the sub frames exist, it'd be more handing the person a rusted out DSM shell, along with the well known pre done sub frames (unless they requested their own in an effort of similicity, and going from there. The car would continue to be driven on a regular basis (currently everyday, but doesn't have to stay that way by any means.) I would mainly be interested in something light, stiff, safe, and resistant to the usual corrosion and abuse that most DSM's suffer from. I understand finding a rust free DSM and transferring all the parts over would cost me at least 3K minimum for the kind of shell I'd want. Since I don't plan on drag racing, nor any major changes in my setup, I'd like to keep it simple. Cosmetically and electronically speaking, I have my connections and have tons of room to play there. It's simply the measuring, welding, and logistics of tubular that I cannot perform and the only reason I am not confident in doing this entirely solo.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Patience metal fab seems to be big into tubular stuff as well and they can get certifired.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

I have talked to these guys (turns out the be the company that did MAP's sponsored drift 240sx) and I really like what they do. I'll check in with them when they are open. Racecraft thought I was nuts, and I'm waiting on a reply from Vassil. Worst case I just go tubular front end with new strut towers front, and have Patience do a new floor pan along with a roll cage connected to the rear strut towers.

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What are your goals for the car and is a tube chassis needed or wanted?

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Are you sure he wasn't just quoting you on a tubular front suspension/structure and/or roll cage? That seems awfully cheap. You do realize that once you remove the unibody, you have little to no positional references right? This is a massive undertaking to do it right and get all the pickup points dimensionally the same.

If all you want is something rust free, just find another pristine running/driving DSM from down south or something. It will cost you less and be far less hassle and you'll get what you're expecting.

I don't think you realize what this would actually be... a stripped out, loud, harsh, rough, bare bones race car. Even trying to fit all your creature comforts back in there would be ludicrous and difficult. You would NOT want to daily drive it.

Are you sure this is what you really want? I'm seconding Nate on this.

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Eric's car (green 240) was far more than $6k to tube chassis.

I agree with single. I don't think you know what you're asking for. My caged and back-halved 1g was ridiculous. Just getting in and out of it sucked hard. Too loud for the street, absolutely zero creature comforts and #becauseracecar problems left and right.

My 10pt caged / not back-halved 1g was ok on the street but not even close to something I would want to DD. Again, did have #becauseracecar issues because of a billet stall on the freeway. In all honesty, the only time I took it out was when I knew for sure something special was out. I'd scout first with my DD.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Just buy Buschur's 1G race car he is selling for $25k.

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If you are willing to wait. There is a sick part out that is going to happen in about two months.

And there is a shell with a 10pt cage, freshly painted engine bay and exterior.

That will be part of it and it retains full interior. I actually contemplated selling my eclipse and just buying his out right. But he cant wait till next year when id have the difference in cash.

It'll be posted on ecmlink car makes around 700hp

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I wonder if what he's actually talking about is a caged chassis... and not a tube frame car.

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If I had space and time it would be a fun project. Good luck.

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After much research on why you guys are right on tube framed cars, I have been looking into a tubed chassis with a full cage and front and rear sections if possible. I have talked to a few more fabricators I knew from the off-road world and have decided the money and mostly time going into full tubular would never pay off and since most sections of our chassis can be fixed or modified without using tubular designs that gives me more confidence. Wanting it to be daily drive able if I needed, but also safe for the occasional event, all while trying to prevent chassis decay, is a hard target to hit.

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As others have asked. What are you trying to achieve, prevent or are worried about?

For daily driving, you should just do a cage in a normal chassis car, with swingouts. There is no need to do all you are talking about, if corrosion is your worry. Everything can be fixed or replaced for cheaper than what you are proposing.

None of this will "pay off" in any sense of the meanings, so not sure what you mean by that comment above.

Back to the original question, what do you think all this will achieve? What are you trying to achieve? Answering this clearly will help us all give you sound advice.

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Frankly I plan on traveling to several tracks throughout the country as I start to perfect sections of the car. I will start with BIR, Road America, Indianapolis, and possibly some tracks in GA and FL. I have family all over the country and would love to eventually travel more with my car not just a couple hours here or there to a local event. I have over 10,000 miles on a built setup from DD and small trips here and there and I know that in order to truly make the car ready for anything, the chassis would be best modified to allow some serviceability and versatility.

Front end:
-More open to allow better routing of cooling devices and cooling airflow in general
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier mounting of aero/performance accessories like splitters, intercooler, etc
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust

Rear end:
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Lighter
-Stiffer

Main chassis:
-Lighter
-Stiffer
-Easier to clean and keep free of rust
-Ability to mount additional safety gear like harnesses and lower seating front and rear
-Allow for easier wiring routing


I saw that I am drooling.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Sounds like you want a cage, along with tubular front and rear subframes.

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I would even suggest subtracting tubular front and rear subframes. Just get a clean southern car and have a cage added by bulfab, etc. Do maintenance on it, get it in good running condition, add necessary upgrades for tracking the car, and go have fun. I am basically currently doing exactly that with a new racecar for WRL/Chumpcar. LMK if you want help or advice.

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This the route you should go. All the rest will likely make life with the car worse in the end. Don't over complicaten what isn't needed. Build it this way, try it out, and mod IF needed. Don't create more items to fine tune before you even start going more harcore.

Re: Tubular chassis builder
 

Yes exactly.

I appreciate the input from you both and frankly will strongly consider doing just the roll cage first and cleaning up the rest of the car as best as possible and go from there. I look forward to mainly the safety, strength, and rigidity of a cage anyway so I feel it's money well spent in the grand scheme of chassis modifications.

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FYI - driving a caged car without a helmet is actually more dangerous than driving a non-caged car without a helmet. Lots of metal to bash your coconut on.

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Very good point.

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Rust is not an issue in a car driven only in the summer. I've never had even a spot on mine.

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same with my spyder. but then it sat for 11years apart lol. I did put winter rims and tires on it this year and it never left the garage

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Same with my old 1g. Nevada / AZ car, and I kept it out of the snow. Best way to do it if you're looking to get and maintain clean shell in my opinion.