I recently purchased a TurboXS H-RFL and wanted to know if i could run that on my eclipse without recirculating considering the bov vents to the atmosphere or are there problems with doing such... :headache:

You can run it venting. You may get bad idle and a CEL code though. I have seen cars vent fine, no idle problems and no CEL, and I have seen others that do not idle and throw a CEL after a while. Put it on and see how you like it and how your car takes it. It is not going to hurt anything at all. If the CEL comes on and you are going to take the bov off, just reset the computer and swap them. BTW, a CEL is just for fuel trim malfuntion. Not something VERY important. I know a few people who drive around with it on.

I wouldn't worry about the CEL as much as the car running rich inbetween shifts because the car is going to exspect that air being blown off is going back into the intake.

Just because you can do it doens't mean its going to be functional. Yeah you may think it sounds cool and that its not hurting anyway, but unless you have a stand alone ECU or a MAFT where it won't expect that air to come back into the intake pipe its going to hamper your performance no questions asked. Unless someone has some magical way around this.....

CRAIG

Shift quick :secret: . You dont necessarily loose power, you just get a hesitation when shifting for a second. It will seem to bog down a bit. Dont think I would see a hp gain switching from a vented bov to a not.

so how much am i looking at to get a stand alone ecu or do something about gettin rid of this CEL....sorry im such a noob i bought the car a couple months ago

Craig said "hamper your performance" not lose hp. Bogging between shifts is going to make your car slower and hamper performance. You may also run into a problem at idle if the BOV leaks. The RFL's are actually decent at idle, so you may be ok there. Overall it is a newbie/ricer thing to do without the proper electronics to allow you to do it correctly.

Get a HKS SSQV. They don't leak at idle when tightened like most others. They are the only ones I've seen work well on a 2G without throwing codes or having to be re-directed.

Don't listen to Honda guys when buying DSM parts.

-Matt


Edit: Afte seeing other posts i see the CEL thing is truely Random........I stand corrected from the above statement.

Thanks, Matt

yea i was told i shouldnt put this bov on until i have a standalone ECU.....like an AEM AMS...which i have the money to do so

I don't get it? Full Standalone to run a Turbo XS BOV? Why not save over a grand and get a 1G BOV and crush it. Or maybe a Greddy Type S and re circulate it. Take that cash and dump it into the motor or more bolt ons.

id figure id get a full standalone becuz this is my second car and its not my daily drive and i want it to be something special with a lot of power for the weekends..

thats a really cool idea. i bet it will sound awesome.

should i jsut send this BOV back and order a GReedy Type-S with a recirulating kit.....and can someone give me a link to where i can find a recirculating kit

the greddy type s uses the same dump tube of your stock BOV.

Never heard of the AEM AMS.... what's that stand for? Air Modulator System specially made to vent bov's? :secret:

You do not need a stand alone to vent a bov. Just put it on and see how your car acts. Every car is different. My car hated venting a HKS ssqv bov which works great on someone elses car. My brothers 2g throws a CEL venting and my friends doesn't with the same bov you have.

Guess I am just one of those ricers that vents when I dont know how to correctly....

I run 3 BOVs venting into each other. It works great and sounds awesome.

aright 92tsiawd ill try it

Just put it on and see what happens. You will probably be fine with it venting. Even if the cell comes on from it, don't worry about it. It would probably take a little driving for it to go on anyways and wouldn't cause any problems. Mine would go on and off. I gave it to my friend with another 2g and his didn't go on at all. It shouldn't cause any problems and as long as it idles, you are fine.

I have the SSQV on my 2g right now. And it hates venting. I threw a CEL, and my car runs like dirt. I decided to get the recirculating kit for it. If I were you, Id just get one that recirculates, Im not sure if the RFL has a kit available to do that though.

I've been running the Blitz BOV - Vented to atmosphere on both my 1996 and my 1995 GSX - had it for going on 5 years. with "Zero" problems. using a SAFC for most of it. And now a DSMLINK.

But I will say my car was slow to get power between shifts until I went DSMLINK.

But that's because I'm using the NLTS feature so I just keep my foot on the gas the entire time during a race, and don't let off till the end of run.


I agree with Craig and Jet - due to your car going rich between shifts it'll take an extra second for it to correct the fuel once you get back into gear. Or at least that's what if feels like when I drove with the SAFC. (or when I don't use the NLTS)

Why do you take your foot off the gas when racing??? It slows you down. You don't need NLTS (no lift to shift) either. Just shift quicker. When you are higher in the rpm band, it takes longer to rev. Try it a couple times and you will get the hang of it. I have a NLTS feature on my MSD-DIS2. Honestly, it slowed my shifting down and I don't use it.

Back on topic though. Just try it and see if it is livable. Do not even consider getting AEM to solve the problem. If you don't already know, it costs ~$1500 for the standalone. Then you will keep spending more for add ons such as a wideband, boost controller, etc. You will run a bit rich but for the most part it is livable. I have to vent my bov because of how my ic piping is made. I recommend recirculating a bov but for me, it is not an issue of concern.

NLTS has actually improved my Shifting....Everyone know's I'm up there with the best of them when it comes to grenading Tranny's.

Most of the time it was from trying to speed shift but I'd start to let off the clutch before the syncro's lined up and the car got into gear but I'm still pulling the shifter back so I end up grinding or exploding the gears.


So I learned that shifting fast isn't neccesarily the key to fast racing. it's "Smooth" Shifting that works the best for me. Plus for me a "Piece of paper" for 1 run isn't worth the expense of blowing up a tranny.


the NLTS so far works well enough that the when I shift it slips right into gear every time now?

The reason for me to take my foot of the gas was because I usually shift slow and if I kept my foot on the gas I'd be bouncing off the rev limiter.

-brian

Damn newbies! :P That is called speed shifting. That is much different that no lift to shift. The no lift to shift is a 2nd rev limiter. If you shift at 7500 then you set the NLTS at 6000 (or where ever your next shift comes out at) This will make it easier on the tranny because the engine will be closer to the right RPM when you shift.

Speed shifting is hard on synchros and shift forks.

AHAHAHAHA - OWNED :woowoo:

Ok I'm sorry but seriously people a full stand alone just to run a BOV you got to be kidding me. You may see a drop in idle after running hard then coming to a stop light (dang red and yellow lights). Your car may even stall out because it makes your car run so RICH. A simple AFC can help this just lean out the bottom end. Just be ready to tap the gas if it is gonna stall out.

I run a HKS SSQ doing an atmosphere dump, once and a while I have problems with my 95gst dropping down on Idle but I'm still livin it up.

-Tim

Just don't be a ricer and recirculate it. Isn't that a good answer? If you are setup to dump, fine. If you don't have a speed density or blow through setup, then recirculate it. It's not rocket science.

Amen to that JET, isn't that what I said in the third post? Why the hell is this thread two pages long? And in advanced tech? This post should be in the parking lot. Speed shift, not lift to shift, whatever, if your car is meant to recirculate, then do it, if you have the equiptment to do otherwise then do it. Otherwise you are losing something somewhere, even if its just gas mileage its still stupid.

Granted its funny as hell when some fucking honda has its window down and you come up along side of them and blow off right in their ear and scare the shit out out of them.

CRAIG

Damn newbies! :P That is called speed shifting. That is much different that no lift to shift. The no lift to shift is a 2nd rev limiter. If you shift at 7500 then you set the NLTS at 6000 (or where ever your next shift comes out at) This will make it easier on the tranny because the engine will be closer to the right RPM when you shift.

Speed shifting is hard on synchros and shift forks. [/b][/quote]
Yeah, I am a ricer and a newbie. I have a MSD-DIS2. I know what the fuck NLTS is. Personally, it slows me down that way. I am fine doing it as I plan on rebuilding my tranny soon anyhow. On the 16g, I needed all the help I could to go fast with my slipping clutch.

OK, you guys talked me into it. I am going to spend $1500 to vent my bov the right non-ricer way. That will make me cool then huh? I will save the $2 per year on gas . It will pay it self off in the long run :liar: .

It's just a F&%KING bov!!!!!!

How about you just recirculate it like we posted 4 or 5 times?!? I guess some people just aren't quick learners? Some of the stuff Mitsu sent out from the factory is actually there for a reason.

And yeah, speed shifting is really going to help that slipping clutch. :rolleyes: Some people just don't get it.

:lol:

Dude, for sure get that AEM standalone. At only $1300 to vent your BOV you are getting a bargain. One question though, do you have any tuning experience? I sure hope so ;)

BTW, he is being sarcastic. Who is the stupid one who thought of that idea as a GOOD alternative??? Craig??? If anyone wants a ride, I will show them that you can vent a bov and have the car run fine.

In conclusion, buying AEM is a STUPID idea just to vent a bov.