3/4 cylinders
 

Well on my way home from work my car started to sound like a Subaru and lost all power. Pulled into a BP and it died and wouldn't start again. Got it towed home and pulled the plugs and #3 looked like sh*t.
It's greenish in color and looks like it has a tack weld on it/ melted electrode.
Coil pack tested good the primary ignition coil in the diagram tested at 1.01 ohms so it's a little high, says 0.77-0.95 ohms.

Re: 3/4 cylinders
 

Note that this happened immediately after doing a pull.

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Not really a pull..just accelerating

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Did you do a compression test? You'll probably at least want to take the head off to inspect for additional damage.

Re: 3/4 cylinders
 

Compression test tonight. #3 was the plug that was messed up but the misfire seemed to be coming from #1
No smoke or anything.

Re: 3/4 cylinders
 

well compression test results are #1 162 #2 158 #3 0 #4 149..going to pull the valve cover tomorrow morning and see if any rockers fell off and also look to see how the valves look. Wet test (for the hell of it) made no difference for the #3 cylinder

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Well all the rockers are still in place. Coolant level is still good and no oil is mixed in and vise versa. During the test it cranked over way faster than all the other cylinders, just because no compression i'm guessing.

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I'd use a bore scope to inspect the cylinder. If there isn't any obvious major damage do a leak down test

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Do they rent those bore scopes?

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Not sure you can check. You can get a cheap one for like $100. They don't have the best qualityimage but yyou can at least get an idea of what's going on in there

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Ok. Should I do a leak down test first?

Re: 3/4 cylinders
 

=mark4g63t;434592]Ok. Should I do a leak down test first?[/QUOTE]

It doesn't really matter you can if you want. But you have to pull the plugs to do a leak down test so it'snnice to just take a quick peak first. That way if you see something major you can save yourself the time of doing the leak down test

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Where are you located?

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Eden Prairie. Plugs are already out from compression test.

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With zero compression I'm going to guess a bent valve. Any broken springs? At this point you pretty much have to take off the head anyway.

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No broken springs from what I saw at a quick glance.

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Just take the head off.

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Will most likely start doing that tonight.

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Is this motor stock or built?

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.020 over 2g pistons 1g rods I believe. They might be NPRs

Re: 3/4 cylinders
 

+1.

Cylinder #3 has 0psi and a wierd looking spark plug, so something is obviously fucked up. I'd skip the bore scope and leak down test. The head pretty much has to come off at this point so just take it off and inspect for damage.

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Now to leave the manifolds on or take them off? I've heard its easier to leave them on for a place to grab.

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Decided to leave them on. Going to start pulling it off after I make the tension tool. It's a 8mm x 1.25mm thread pitch and should be at least 8 inches long correct?

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Diameter and pitch sound right, not sure on length.

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Took the head off and BAM a chunk of the exhaust valve on #3 is gone!:eek:

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What should my next step be? Think I should get new valve guides?

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Was that an exhaust valve? I would be trying to find that piece, get the head checked out, and check you turbo if that's an exhaust valve all for starters.

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Take the head to a shop, have them fix it. Try to find the missing piece. Put it back together. Let r buck.

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Is there any cylinder wall damage?

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No cylinder wall damage. Still have crosshatching in them. It was a #3 exhaust valve. Taking the o2 housing off now to put my external setup on and will see if there is damage to the wheel.

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What could have caused this?

Taking the head over to Marks tomorrow to take the valves out and pick up a set of Jackson Auto Machine std size valves. Then the head goes to Gosh on Mon. to see whats up with it and reassembly.

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just a burned valve does it look broke or like it was cut with a torch

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Hard to say. Will know once it's out.

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im gonna assume its a burnt valve don't usually just break little chunks off

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what causes a burnt valve? lean?

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that or to little valve clearance sticking it open a little for some reason seems not possible with hydrolic lifters but who knows happens to saturns all the time

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My injectors ohm tested fine and look perfectly clean.

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The valve does have jagged edges where it broke.

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than maybe a bad lifter pumped up and held the valve open a bit. what happens in saturns is there supposed to be adjusted and when people don't do it enough they wear out of clearance and hang a valve open and they burn just like that.

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The cam cap bolt was a little loose.