What is the difference between the act 2900 clutch with a 6 puck disk vs a 4 puck disk. Does one grab harder. I thought the 6 puck was pretty much race only. Which would be best for a daily driver?
Thanks

Non puck, and even better yet, a 2600, unless you are going for 600whp on a daily driven vehicle...in which case, we all know it wont be daily driven for long.

i was gonna say something, but then cvd chimed in like an ass and talked all good.......and stuffs.....garr

two pucks ;) (the difference that is)

Glad to be of help, let me know if there are any other math problems you are having trouble with.

which 2900 disk would be easiest to drive around town with. I thought there was a street disk, but I guess not. I was told there was only a 6 and 4 puck.

They both suck for street driving. But get the 4 puck if you must get one :goodluck: on having anything in one piece.









I must say that that is horrible advise and you should not get a pucked disc. There is a reason they don't offer the 2900 with the street disc, cause you don't really need a 2900 if your getting a street disc.

what could hold a lot of power that is streetable?

A puck clutch disc with a sprung hub is not as bad on the driveline. More pucks is not always better. I have a ClutchMasters 2500 with a 4 puck sprung hub and I like it. And it's good to 600+hp.

The 2600. It will be fine for 500whp or less. To much more than 500 and you are starting to push the limits of the clutch.

One major reason the ACT pucked discs are something to avoid is the lack of springs and they are on the agressive side of things. (really bite into the PP an FW).

CVD gives good advice.

an act 2600 with street disc. an act 2900 can also be used with a street disc, but you won't need it. puck discs, both sprung and unsprung hub, will give a lot of additional driveline noise, particularly when coasting, the engagement will also be more harsh, less forgiving. you don't need a puck disc. i believe even shephard runs a 2900lb+ pressure plate with a full face disc.

Shep runs a 3200lb plate and a full face street disk, rau in his awd ran a 3200lb plate and a 6puck disk. Just get a 2600 untill it starts slipping all the time, then look into a sprung pucked disk of somekind. My 2600 holds 530whp fine untill 5th gear.

~John

Yeah, they do offer a 2900 with a street disk. I have one sitting in the garage. I am with the rest of the guys though, get a 2600 with the street disk. I doubt you will be making more than 500 whp, so it will work just fine for you. Why put more stress on the driveline than you have to?

A 4 puck disc will grab/hold more than a 6 puck.Less surface area with the same pressure=more friction.

That is what he is worried about. He should have quite a bit of power when all is said and done. He wants to put one clutch in there and be done with it. Not have one that slips (at all). He is going to be starting with the same turbo you have John. Then he plans on swapping to a larger one.

Seeing that John's clutch (2600) slips in high gear, what would be the next step up then? In ACT, isn't it the 2900?

If he needs that much holding power then it would be wise to go with a better friction material like ceramic. Just get a sprung hub.

That is what he is worried about. He should have quite a bit of power when all is said and done. He wants to put one clutch in there and be done with it. Not have one that slips (at all). He is going to be starting with the same turbo you have John. Then he plans on swapping to a larger one.

Seeing that John's clutch (2600) slips in high gear, what would be the next step up then? In ACT, isn't it the 2900? [/b][/quote]
Just get a 2600. He won't need more. :secret:

I agree. It is going to take him a while before he makes that kind of power. He is going to be breaking tranny parts before he gets to 500 whp anyway, unless he puts in a built tranny. So the clutch is going to have to come off anyway. People think they can just throw some parts on and make 500 whp, it doesn't work that way.

You can somewhat just throw some parts on and make 500whp, but to actually get that 500whp to run a 10 without breaking crap is the hard part.

Well said, that's why my tranny is at TRE right now. I don't want to take any chances and am having it done now before it breaks and trashes the trans. :3gears:

And thats where it will sit for the next 6 months as you try to get him to answer your emails and phone calls. ;) :goodluck:

And thats where it will sit for the next 6 months as you try to get him to answer your emails and phone calls. ;) :goodluck: [/b][/quote]
Actually it's going back together as we speak.

Doesn't really matter though. Magnus has been waiting for the connecting rods for my engine since April and doesn't have them yet.

Viscious - what's your overall rating of your Magnus Experience?

I don't want to get off topic here, I'll PM you.

Well said, that's why my tranny is at TRE right now. I don't want to take any chances and am having it done now before it breaks and trashes the trans. :3gears: [/b][/quote]
alright maybe i'm dumb, but in TRE's 1G transmissions are the gears or hub/sleeve any different than stock, other than being shotpeened? Actually from their site, it doesn't look like the gears are even shotpeened. They use stronger shift rails, "improved oil passages" (eh isnt the whole thing full of oil?), nice trash magnet and filter, and evo shift forks. I'm not really seeing anything else but nicer synchros and taller 1st/5th gear, which aren't improving strength any.. Am I missing something here?

Actually it's going back together as we speak.

Doesn't really matter though. Magnus has been waiting for the connecting rods for my engine since April and doesn't have them yet. [/b][/quote]
are you going titanium or something?

Even with stock parts, the way that it is assembled and small changes make a huge difference. Guys like John Sheperd have spent years and years playing around shimming, clearences, making small changes to parts, etc and have learned how to make a tranny last longer and shift better. Anybody can take apart and put back together a tranny, but to actually know what works and what doesn't takes some trial and error on actual high HP cars. There are some parts that can be swapped from one model year to another like the double syncro shit and EVO shift forks and getting rid of the terribly weak 3-4 gear in the 94+ trannies.

fair enough. lotsa plastigauge

Not to mention putting in a 4 gear center diff or spool if you are over 500 whp.

Lots of plastigage doesn't do anything if you don't know what to set the clearances to! They have quite a few tricks they do too.

<!--QuoteBegin-illz@Jun 10 2004, 10:56 AM
alright maybe i'm dumb, but in TRE's 1G transmissions are the gears or hub/sleeve any different than stock, other than being shotpeened? Actually from their site, it doesn't look like the gears are even shotpeened. They use stronger shift rails, "improved oil passages" (eh isnt the whole thing full of oil?), nice trash magnet and filter, and evo shift forks. I'm not really seeing anything else but nicer synchros and taller 1st/5th gear, which aren't improving strength any.. Am I missing something here?[/quote]
Let's try and keep this post on topic.

To answer your questions, I had TRE Cryo treat all the parts, I had the 4-spyder mod performed to the center diff with the Torington bearing mod, double synchro on 2nd gear, heavy duty 3/4 gearset hub and their "blueprinting" and assembly. This will cover about 95% of anybodies requirements with a high HP DSM. I did not go with the higher 1st gear set.

Look HERE for more info

Now back on topic :3gears:

I had Shep do the same stuff to my tranny that Vicious got, except the cryo part. I'm running a 3100 ACT pressure plate with a street disk. We'll see how it holds up.

If anybody's interested, I have a used 2600 and 3200 pp for sale. PM me offline for details.

Also I have heard the problem with the monster pp is cracking the crank shaft. So unless you want to tear down your motor and check the crankshaft for cracks every year, you might want to get a 2600 and a sprung pucked disk. My clutch only slipped a little, still hit 165 in 5th at 7k. I just smelled a little cluch on the way back down the frontage road, and it was only a little.

~John