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New Short Block
Well, looks like insurance won't cover my engine it either. So, looks like its time to start looking for a new short block!
I'm thinking a 2.2L. For now it will be summer DD, so it needs to be reliable, but fun. Any recommendations for the Evo X? I'll be calling MAP in the morning for a quote. Other thoughts? Also what other things will I need, internals, oil pump, etc? |
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For a leased car, I wouldn't recommend anything more than a stock setup.
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I'm buying it at the end of the lease.
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junkyard motor and do nothing, its already proved its reliability.
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Put a stock motor in it, demod it and sell it/drop lease.
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Kill it. Kill it with fire.
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If you want a built engine then go with MAP. They're local to you and their engines have proven themselves.
for a leased car though, I too recommend a replacement stock shortblock. One more thing to remember, the more you modify anything the less reliable it becomes. |
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Stock motor in, trade in lease for a different one.
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Well, enough people have voiced about the whole modding a leased car and frankly that is none of my business, I'll try to simply answer the question lol.
I'd go with MAP, they have built dozens of 4b11's now, more than anyone else local, no reason not to use them. A 2.0L setup is probably the most reliable. It requires less tuning to get right. If you want easy, buy a new shortblock and keep stock sleeves and do drop ins. You will need an entirely new oiling system for sure. Plan on oil pump and oil cooler for sure, probably get a new oil pan too as DB could never get all the metal specs out of mine. Pick up some metal Hyundai pulley's too. Keep it simple, stay on pump gas, stock turbo if you can, otherwise small upgrade like an EF2, EF3. I am saying keep it simple because then your fueling system can stay simple. Keep the fueling system to a wally 255 drop in if you can and some 1000cc injectors (prolly ID1000's or FIC11000's). You could probably do E85 if you really want to on that setup if you stick with an EF2, then you can get an easy 450whp. keep the head stock and everything else you can stock too. By the looks of it you seem pretty set on building the motor since mitsu won't cover it. I can't blame you, seemed silly to me not to build it if I was replacing the motor but others have a decent point. So my advice is keep the "while your in there" to a minimum. Manley rods or Map X beams too, ACL bearings all around, deck the head, new headgasket (which if you stay 2.0 you just get the entire mitsu gasket kit, plus mivec 0rings which don't come with the kit I think) and get some JE or Weisco pistsons, if weisco get the 1400hd's or JE ams spec ones. GL! |
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I saw put a stock motor in it and just drive it. Iam sure this wont be the first motor that you will blow up if you keep modding it. The more mods you do the less reliable it will be. Even if you bought it and still owe money on it I wouldnt be sticking more money into it. This the problem with everybody Sticking money into stuff that they dont own. just keep it stock and save your money so when lease is up you can pay it off.
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I have money that I was saving to pay off my lease when it came due. The plan was to mod the crap out of it then once I owned it. That plan is kind of out the window now.
It's going to be about 7.5k to do a new stock engine from mitsu, out of my pocket. So, at that rate, I might as well get what I want. I plan to take the money I was saving to pay for this new motor, then just take out a short 2 year loan on the buy out. I'm not real concerned about what I should do/not do with my lease at this point. I'm really just looking for advice on the best way to get what I want, regardless of whether you agree with my financial strategy. |
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Well go to map for a motor then
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What kind of HP do you want eventually?
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Built motor from MAP.
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Looking to be around 400-450 at most. Nothing ridiculous.
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hell at that power you could honestly do a stock motor lol. And you'd prolly have less issues with everything (tuning easier, assembly from mits), but a built block, do stage 1. |
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You guys think I can get away with doing a stock block and new internals? The stock block is $2500 with my discount.
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Can you stick a 4b11 out of another car and tell mitsu to suck it?
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$7500 yeow! Penny pinch man, penny pinch. I saved $$ on my motor build by doing as much myself as I felt comfortable with but it still bit me in the butt in a few spots.
I'm down with the full stage1 setup, good solid motor setup. Clean up the head. Pray none of the valves are bent--I had 6 bent IIRC and it cost me a pretty penny to fix. Send the cams AND valve tappets with to the machine shop as I wasted probably TEN days waiting for stupid new tappets and other misc delays....anyways strap it down with standard ARP headstuds torqued with a good solid torque wrench, don't forget the little oil filter screen that sits on the top of the block. More spots I saved cash on: The gasket kit--listed as $310 above idk what's in it so I just ordered peice-by-piece from mitsu (looked back at my notes for this) for $121.85: intake manifold headgasket head-to-waterpump head-to-tstat housing turbo coolant hose (mine was a little iffy) turbo drain-to-block o-ring 4x oil filter housing-to-oil cooler copper washers This leaves room for cheapo o'reily 10w30 oil for break-in, coolant, a small pile of oil filters and a fresh set of plugs. That reminds me, I have lomker's HKS spark plugs to use during your break-in if you want....no big boost on them but you can do all the vacuum pulls you want on them and then swap in a set of fresshie gapped plugs once you're ready to tune. Also I put in a fresh clutch disc in for my HDG6 to give it some extra life for something super cheap like $150. I'll post up anythign else I can think of. Also be SMART and don't go more than a few miles once you get it back together without double and maybe triple-checking ALL fluids in the car--engine oil, coolant, trans fluid, xfer case fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid. I see people turn a blind eye to this shit...if you had a hand in assembly or not be smart and check these! |
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Mid 400's is doable with a stock shortblock, stage 1 will take you safely to 600.
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4g63 swap it.
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Kracka is making alot of power on stock motor on pump gas. stage 1 will be more then enough for what your going to throw at it.
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I still think throwing in a 4b11 out of something else would be dirt and they you put a bow on it and tell mitsu to suck it.
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The stage 1 h-beam rods are technically not as strong but for the price difference it's way worth it, they will be plenty strong! |
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Sounds cheap to me.
I didn't see where he mentioned he can't do that, but ok. Oh my bad, turns out I should know every detail of the lease before I make suggestions. Being serious, i just think that would be funny and the cheapest way. |
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Cheapest way to do what, exactly?
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Put a motor in the car that works.
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Yes, finding a junkyard 4B11T from a 2008-2013 Evo X would probably be his cheapest alternative, but he has expressed no interest in replacing his blown up engine with another stock one.
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Apart from you, they do seem to blow-up pretty easily.
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I agree, besides self inflicted injuries my car hasn't had any like problems that would happen to a stock car, like suspension issues or any of that crap. |
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But apart from this random that troggy has experienced sounds like they are pretty good. high 400s is damn good too. |
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Word. Come down to Texas I'll we attempt to get BBQ again!
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