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Back at it
After a LONG break, and a lot of connecting the dots; I am back into DSMs.
Sunday afternoon I traded my R6 for Jungy's 2g. It's a great car, a little rough on the edges, but a great car. The motor feels strong and well put together but I still haven't gotten around to a compression test. Haven't boost leak tested or anything else. So far all I've done is get an alignment. It was way off. And tune the car. It's running corn but was at 14:1 on 26psi... A little hot for my taste so I brought it back down to 12:1. I have to give credit to Jungy or whoever tuned the car, all I had to do was move the sliders evenly and the AFR stayed consistent. Before I post the dyno numbers (I did one pull at Full Blown), I want to thank Brendon (Jungy) for a great build. There's not much I have to do except main upgrades. Turbo, IC, Trans. I love this car already and it's hard to not get on the gas. Here's the dyno sheet. 26psi / T3 HX40 / E85 http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...2/2g/451hp.jpg I had originally planned to 6262 it right away, but I really like the HX40. Sounds like a jet engine (never had that on my 67) and has a broad powerband. Another thing I never had on the 67. Not really too sure where to go with it. Will be putting K Sports in for sure as well as a twin disc and trans. That's the plan for now. |
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Nice! Out of the box and great powerband and peak numbers with just some tuning. Bring it up to BIR next weekend? :)
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Awesome. I've been dying to see some number from this thing!
Keep the HX40, that thing has a lot left in it. I say skip the FMIC (I thought it had a pretty good sized one already?) and clutch too and spend that money on a paint job. :D |
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Haven't decided whether or not to try and drive it up to Proving Grounds. I'm not sure if I'd want to try driving it two hours away yet. Though Jungy did to meet me in Rogers so maybe.
The FMIC is a good one, but I have a feeling it would run out of steam 30psi+ same with the ACT 2600. I do agree that it needs some paint though, maybe a 2GB conversion first? |
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^ 2600 with a 6 puck held strong on sleepydsms talon and be made good power.
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A QM twin disk with easy engagment? That's almost impossible to believe. The only QM TD I've driven was on a subie, but it was rediculously hard to drive.
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lol, welcome back.
Love all the advice in here. I'd like to see what you can get out of that hX40, they wake up after 30psi |
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Did you used to have that red 1g?
Nice numbers |
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Hahaha I remember when you pulled the power on the monitor at db when you were getting tuned so nobody could see your numbers!
Any pictures of the car? From memory you picked up a damn clean car! |
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That day is how I remember you so well, BRAD!!! Haha, my street racing days are over so I don't care to hide stuff anymore.
I don't have any exterior pics yet. Will get some up soon. |
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I had a very adventurous day today. On my drive out to Little Canadia to pick up b00stedspyder's 2g tails; I noticed a weird sound coming from the driver's side rear tire.
I kinda ignored it thinking it maybe suspension was just creeking. When I got back home I finally decided something was up, it had gotten louder and louder. Especially at low speeds but the faster I went the quicker the wub wub sound was. I got out and kicked the tire, the wheel moved a little without the lugs following immediately. :shocked: The garage I have to work on the car is in Maple Grove and I live in St. Louis Park. So I drove to the Discount Tire in Plymouth. I asked the guy to torque the lug nuts down. He comes out and tries to tighten the lug nuts. When I say try, he used two 1/4 turns and said, "I can't do this for you. Your car is unsafe to drive and unless you buy new wheels and replace the studs, I can't work on it. When the wheel wobbles it screws up the studs, that's why they won't tighten." My jaw dropped. So I unscrewed one of the lugs and told him that the studs hadn't even been touched. There was zero indication of the wheel even touching the studs. He still refused to tighten them. So I had to call everyone I know to find stock lug nuts. Since the spline drives on the car were eating away at the ID of the wheel stud hole. Found some, but had to run to MG to grab my torque wrench and spline drive key. Then back to Discount to tighten them. Then over to MAP to get the lug nuts. Finally just got home at 9 after some Honda tried stalking me to race. To be honest, today was fun. I did miss the excitement that was gone while I didn't have a DSM. |
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Good news. I just went through my logs and dynoing I was only at 23psi. Pretty impressive if you ask me, I'm liking this HX40 more and more.
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Fuck thats a scary deal with the wheels, wonder what would cause that?
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Spline drive lug nuts on stock wheels.
The spline drive lug nuts have that 45* flange for aftermarket wheels. The stock wheels require lug nuts with a lip on the inside and a flat flange. |
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Oh ok. Dang, hopefully it didn't cause any damage then!
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I don't know how but it didn't. The lug studs are still perfect and the wheels only have a little bit chipped off the outside of the hole. Good ol DSM.
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Put some new shoes on the girl and got around to taking some pictures. Not the greatest pictures but at least there's a little eye candy in the thread now.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/L1020124.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/L1020126.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/L1020127.jpg |
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I got sick of the metallic Kttsssssssssttt the Greddy Type S BOV was making. So I bought and had MAP mount a Tial Q for me today. Unfortunately it still flutters on low boost so I'm going to try a dedicated vacuum source to see if it helps.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...2g/photo-9.jpg Still can't decide where to go with the car. Do I leave the Holset on and get BC BR coilovers or do I get another turbo? First time I've had money before I knew what to do with it.:lol: |
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Dude, I don't know if you realize how much this turbo has left in it. lol
Bring it to Shane and turn the boost to 40psi. Then think about getting a bigger turbo. :) |
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^Tell us.
These holsets really seem to shine over 30 psi though. |
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Yeah you guys are right, other than knowing other people have hit 6xx DJ HP I really have no experience with them.
But my experience is usually more boost = more problems. I'd rather run lower boost and have less problems. Which reminds me I still need a twin disc heh. The 2600 / street disc definitely won't hold on at 40psi. |
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Well, if my brother ran a HX35 at 50psi and an HX40 at 65psi....
Also, more boost in a smaller turbo really isn't that much different than less boost in a bigger one. Just flows the same and makes it laggier. 25psi in a 14b ain't the same as 25psi in a GT35R. Ya know? |
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ON a dsm?
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Nope. But it was still on a T3 HX35. Just saying, you can run a ton of boost through those things. :)
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Time for another update.
I got sick of the Greddy crap that I have to calculate to know where I'm at. So I replaced the boost gauge with an old Stewart Warner I had laying around and replaced the EGT with an AEM UEGO. Still need a different oil pressure gauge though. I also bought one of the GrimmSpeed MBCs. I really like it, I like that it has audible clicks that indicate .25 psi change in boost. Even though you can't hear them with the motor running, it's better than an entire turn of the knob for 1 psi. I think vertical lines instead of horizontal lines would be a good idea. They're more precise. It's not like you'd be able to replicate boost using the current horizontal lines. But thank you DC and Jordan for talking me into it. I also did a boost leak test and had a pretty good leak from the intake manifold gasket. So I replaced it with a paper Fel-Pro one on the side of the road last night. Big mistake. The paper didn't stay straight when seating it, if I hadn't been in a rush it wouldn't have been a problem. So I went to First Gear Garage and replaced it with a metal OEM one today. I know I fixed the leaks because the car dies shifting now :lol:. Will need to adjust BISS and do some tuning soon. I've been at a real 26 psi for a while now after the MBC install. Definitely feels like a gained a few horses. Will hopefully be up to 35 soon and will dyno again. I decided to ditch the 255 intank / 255 inline setup also. I'm going to run two or three DW 300s instead. I have big plans for this car for next season and have started collecting parts. Including these Wiseco 7 bolt 10.5:1 HDs. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-11.jpg |
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And thanks to the wife for helping support my addiction. :spin:
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Nice. why did u change pump setups?
I take it the current motor is a 7 bolt? |
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And no, the motor isn't 7 bolt. The Wiseco HD's were off the shelf 10.5:1 CR. If you look at the 6 bolt pistons they're only 8.5:1. Both pistons are the exact same dimensions omitting the CR and wrist pins. The 7 bolt pins are 1mm thicker than 6 bolts also. So I also get 1mm thicker wrist pins in 10.5:1 off the shelf (yes MAP had them in stock) at the cost of drilling out my rod bushings 1mm. :spin: |
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I see.
I know about using those rods, just wondering if u had a 6 or 7. |
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Bearings decided to eat themselves.
Time for a new motor. |
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I took advantage of this decent weather and tore my oil pan off today.
While poking around the car I found this, which I was told was hooked up: http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-12.jpg And this: http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-13.jpg Considering all of the I/C piping was also loose; I'm going to go over the whole car before it leaves the garage again. Anyway, here's what was in my oil pan. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-14.jpg And I bet you can't guess which one was spinning haha. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-16.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-15.jpg Even though the bearing looks like it had a bad night in gitmo, the crank is surprisingly smooth. If the one rod wasn't blued from heat, I would throw another set of bearings in and see how it went. I didn't have enough time to pull the motor out today but at least I know the situation now. The next decent day I'll get the motor out and send the rods out to be reconditioned and crank to be cut. Hopefully the crank doesn't need to go past .10 under. If it does, I won't be running it since DG Motors wants $180 to re-nitride it and who knows when I'd get it back. I have a nice OEM crank I picked up but I was trying to save it for the next build. Will update when the motors out. |
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Sucks you spun a rod bearing on the new car. I guess its a good thing that happened too. You got under the car and found some things wrong. Hope the rebuild goes smooth.
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Yeah unfortunately it requires my car to be down for two weeks.
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Time for another update. I got time to work on the car yesterday. Everything's off except the motor mounts. I also put together a new motor hoist. Nothing too exciting but I'm getting there even with a lot of days between me working on it.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/IMG_1030.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/IMG_1031.jpg |
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Put together my motor stand and got the motor out.
I had decided since the passenger axle didn't want to come out; I was going to leave it in and rip it apart..... http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-18.jpg Damn thing stayed together! I ended up prying it out at a nice open angle since it stayed together with the motor literally out of the engine bay. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/photo-17.jpg Will get the crank and rods to Wagamon tomorrow. They said 2-3 day turn around so hopefully Wednesday she will be running again! |
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