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The Spazmobile
Well, under pressure from Scheides, I'm going to post a build thread. I probably should've had one a while back, but it's whatever. I guess that means I need to go over history a bit.
Bought the car on April 19th, 2008. 156k on the clock, completely stock. The reason for purchase was for autox and a better DD. See: ugly wheels, boring and stock. http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-...16038_2528.jpg I ended up blowing up the stock T25 in Fall '08, and replaced it with a small 16G. I have no pics of this or the install. Later on, my stock BCS seized (or something), and I picked up an MBC. Again, no pics. The car then stayed this way for a while, until a piece of asphalt jumped out in front of me and destroyed one of my wheels. This caused me to get these: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3513/...dc7522fe97.jpg Then came the drop, on Asshanson's old Tokico Blues with Red lowering springs: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2509/...a6cc73c375.jpg And now, as of last week, I have an FMIC, which is the real reason for the posting of this thread. Nothing special, and it's not huge, but it does the job and fits the bumper quite well: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2719/...2a4fa638ec.jpg Piping is routed as it is due to my j-pipe pointing toward the passenger side, I'll be picking one up that faces the driver's side and re-routing it soon: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2494/...536c88cd93.jpg And along with the piping, I also got a Greddy RS BOV, probably a little overkill for my application, but it sounds... interesting, and god knows I'm an attention whore: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2706/...8d37a71d22.jpg And that's where things stand today. |
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Nice work spazzy! Can't wait to see some more boost and some numbers out of this thing!
You're on your way to a well-setup 2G :D |
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Coming along nicely considering your budget !! All ya need now is some cams, maybe some 264's or a 264/272 combo. I think that would work pretty good with this setup you have so far.
How's that strut tower rust? get that fixed? |
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Hows the crank play lookin'? :)
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looks good man. what's your next mod? I know how things are going with a tight budget.
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Lookin good! I hope your next mod is a nice set of jumper cables ;)
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That's an interesting piping setup you have there haha. Finally getting some mods on there I see.
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I loved the Tokicos for looks, hope they do well for you in Autocross.
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Yeah, the car does look awesome driving down the road.
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Going to reroute that BOV back into the intake?
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dont forget about the 2 days it was in my garage.
suspention swap both front wheel bearings left tie rod end right lower ball joint right tower rust fixed right side axel |
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And all of it 2 days before the cruise.
That was NOT fun. Though I did get to beat shit with a mallet, which felt pretty good. |
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Wow, i'm surprised.
It does look nice, that drop is perfect. |
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looking good still slower than a mini though....
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Glad to see the build though. Lets see bay and interior pics |
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Anyway, how could throttle response get worse with more air volume in the pipes unless the tune is goofy? |
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Well, it is on the stock map still...
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Primo has fixed 2g strut tower rust before, btw.
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^ LOL.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure the slow boosting is partially due to an exhaust leak I can't seem to get rid of. One of the bolts from the o2 housing to the turbo keeps backing out, I'll get that taken care of again this weekend and see how much that helps. It's not so much that response is actually decreased, but audibly it takes longer for the piping to fully charge, I'm not really spooling any later. I haven't done an official leak test, but all the ones we heard during testing we fixed, so if it's a leak, it's relatively minor. |
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O2 housing being loose shouldn't really cause slow boosting.
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Anyway, looking good! |
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But I have another question now... how the fuck does this even happen? http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...z/IMG_8098.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...z/IMG_8104.jpg The bolt was fine when I put the heat shield on after the o2 housing came loose a few months back... Anyway, vice grips are a no-go, was trying for 10 minutes, wouldn't budge, is my only option at this point dropping the turbo? I have spare studs, I just need to get this fucker out. |
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Damn that sucks. Id get rid of those studs anyway and go only bolts. Alot easier to deal with.
The car is shaping up though! |
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Car looks nice dude, keep up the good work.
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depeding on how much wiggle rom you have. you could remove the turbo band, the 3 other mani bolts, and the exhaust and just remove the hotside of the turbo. that way you can try and leave the lines
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I'm going to see about having a nut welded to the top of it, thoughts on that? |
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welding a nut could work, methinks
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Do it right.... Get it removed and get rid of those studs.
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Do you recommend anything specific to replace them with?
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take it out and all bolts
I have some good bolts for turbo's I can get you a set just stop by |
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A Irwin bolt out would probably get that out without having to drop the turbo. Otherwise welding a nut on would do it.
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Same thing happened when I upgraded to a t28, for some reason the top broke off. Couldn't get it out with it in the car, but it was easy to get out with the turbo in my hands.
Go with OEM turbo bolts, should be the same as evo ones. I think they are about $5 apiece new but worth it over hardware store stuff. |
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Yup, put on new bolts and you won't have any problems.
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