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Cylinder head noise!
I got my car running and It idles fine but when you give it throttle the cylinder head makes a hollow thumping noise....
I just installed bc 272's and did arp's along with the timing belt, ect.... I don't know what this is.. Is my head shot?? It still idles fine and runs good. It just makes an anoying noise and gets louder as the rpm's go up.. Any help on this would be great... I'm so depressed about it :( |
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Hollow thumping noise? Could you explain that better? Are you sure you're oil is full?
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I'm not sure how to explain it over the computer besides its hollow thumping that speeds up with throttle and gets louder as it goes, but it sounds fine at idle.. |
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Well if it runs and drive's fine just take the car for a drive. See if the noise is still there. Just make sure to pay attention and stop if anything wierd starts to happen.
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I did take it for a drive and it ran and drove fine...
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But the sound is still there? Are you sure you're not going crazy? lol
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I heard it. It's more like a loud knocking. Loudness and rhythm increase with RPM.
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I dont know what this is...! Tomorrow I have something going on till mid afternoon and then I'm gonna pull the vc off and see if anything is visablly wrong.
If anyone has any knowledge about this please lmk. |
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Bump for a mitsu member in need!
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it kinda sounds like you might have a collapsed lifter
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Thats what I was thinking too. DSM lifters pretty much suck. Even new ones can be a problem. I guess pulling the V/C will shed more light. Maybe something is hitting the inside of the V/C? Like a socket that got left in there or something?
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Check for crankwalk. That sounds exactly like what mine just did a couple months ago. The noise quieter until after 2500 rpms, then it would get louder or until the car warmed up, Also the car ran fine except the knock sensor was pulling timing after 3000 rpms due to the noise so it was losing some power. I tried everything to get rid of the noise and it ended up being the main bearings and rod bearings.
None of the usual signs of crankwalk were there, such as the clutch pedal dropping to the floor or anything along those lines. I was having a hard time pinpointing the noise, at one point it sounded like it was coming from the transmission area, so i changed the clutch and checked everything. Still the noise was there. Changed out the lifters to the no tick ones and bled them, noise still was there. Retorqued the head, and cams. Still there checked the CAS. Then finally pulled the oil pan and found the rod bearings were completly fucked, and the main bearings were pretty much out of spec. I ordered rod bearings from MAP but it was too late. I drove it to a meet and on the way there complete crankwalk, Then i parted out the car. :) |
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considering he just put cams in and because he described it as a "hollow" sound and it sounds like it's in the upper part of the engine it sounds like a valve train noise. valve train noises are usually a hollow sounding noise. one thing to listen for is does it sound like it's at crank speed or a little slower? valve train noises are at 1/2 crank speed.
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if you want I can come help you pinpoint where it is and what's causing it. just give me a call
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did you listen with a stethoscope or just by ear? |
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Just by ear... and trust me you can hear it!.
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Pull the valve cover off and take a look.
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Kinda wish i would have found this before putting more money into it, oh well, i still have the Stage 4 Competition clutch for sale if anyones interested. LOL |
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Just did and everything looks good...
It never made this noise before and when I parked it it didnt make it either... I put cams and arp's along with new timing components and now it does. The cams were all torqued to spec and so was everything else... Timing belt was dead on with every tooth. |
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Do you have a camera with sound to record the sound its making?
otherwise you may want to try bleeding the lifters. |
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I do have a camera that does all that but cant get my computer to read the disk anymore.... :(
shawn ( 4seasons ) came over and we used a stethoscope on it and the noise is deffinetly coming from the head.. Its on the exhaust side by the cam gear.. or thats where its the loudest... Tested it under the car while running and even with throttle and nothing from the oil pan.... Might be a lifter or rocker but im going to take the vc off again tomorrow and see if I can wiggle any of the rockers. |
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I took the valve cover back off and all the roller rockers are nice and tight along with everything else...
Still hoping for it to be collapsed lifter... |
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I would take all of the lifters out and bleed them with new oil. Its quite easy to do. There is a post on dsmtuners on how to do it. after you do that the knocking will be very loud for 10-20 miles but will quiet down eventually as they are filling with oil.
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Also ecmlink shows no knock untill driving and even when im getting into it a little bit "not much" it shows a max of 1.7 and it still needs to be tuned
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realistically you should just replace the lifters. you should always put in new lifters when you put in new cams but bleeding them would at least be a good place to start
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Why would you need to put in new lifters with new cams? The lifters don't touch the cams.
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No reason to replace when replacing cams. I sent him instructions on how to bleed the lifters (evom how to). From the video he sent me it sounds like a bad lifter tick, But if bleeding the lifters or changing to revised lifters doesnt help i would definatly pull the oil pan and check the rod bearings. |
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Well I'm glad you all think its in the head because I've been watching youtube videos on lifter tick and rod knock on the 4g63t and I just dont know anymore... I am going to be trailoring my car to map in about a half hour because they have a way to replace the lifters without taking off the timing belt...
I still have a sick feeling it could be rod knock but the stethoscope made it pretty much 100% that its in the head on the exhaust side by the cam gear.. We will see........ |
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What oil are you running?
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it wasnt until after i bled the lifters (took them out with the cams in place) that i decided to pull the oil pan. Mainly because i was getting frustrated and didnt want to have to pull the transfer case, just wanted everything to be finally done. And when i saw how bad the bearing had gotten i quickly ordered some new ones from MAP. (thanks guys) and as it turned out the mains were also bad. Im sure MAP will get to the bottom of it. Best of luck. |
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Also, the car is sitting at map for the time being and just waiting for them to give a call and let me know what the extent of the damage is...
That 6 bolt might be getting built earlier then I had planned.. I just don't know if I can scrounge up the money to do so.. :( |
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Hey spending alot on your motor and cheaping out on the oil seems stupid to me... Your choice. :)
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if it was the 6 bolt I would think about it... But i'm pretty sure most of the ppl on here use mobil1 and obcourse your going to run amsoil when your a dealer for it!
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Idk that oil has much to do with crappy oem lifters. You think your cheaping out with mobil one? ask the guys in the shop what they run in their dd's and I bet you would be suprised. If your car is at map and your worried that mobil one is too cheap, check out Eneos. Just ask them (anyone there about it) what they think about it. The thing is that its not really any more expensive than any other premium synthetic oil.
I think that Kracka had a thread going about oil a little while ago. it may be worth a look. Anyways, I look forward to hearing what the problem is. I would almost be willing to put money on a lifter(s) or possibly a cam bearing(s). If anyone can figure it out its MAP. Sometimes the pros just got to take over and do work. |
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