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tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
Well ladies and gents! Pick up my car hopefully in the next week in Duluth!
Anyway it's a 95 Talon TSi FWD, but thanks to turbodomestics, I'm going to tackle the AWD swap. Looks pretty straight foward and should be fun! Since all I do is jack off everyday.....anyway, here is my plan, and let me know what you think. I expect to be in the range of 350-400awhp. Tweak it if need be! -HX35, Bullseye housing Maperformance/Ebay -Turbonetics Manifold (still unsure) -Punishment Racing o2 housing -TIAL 38MM Wastegate .9 BAR -DSMlink V3 -2.5" Maft? -BC 272 -Competition Clutch 2300 -255hp pump -Fuel Lab/Aeromotive AFPR Kit -SS fuel lines -1350cc/1600cc Injectors -FMIC -All Hard Piping 2.5" -3" custom exhaust HKS carbon Ti muffler -Stainless steel feed, return oil lines -Buschur Filter -Injen pipe 4" intake -EGT Gauge -Wideband 02 Gauge -Oil Pressure Gauge -Boost Gauge -ARP head studs -Headgasket -Timing Belt -Tires Hoosier Drag tires(not exactly street legal..lol) Peter said post it up to see what you guys thought...lmk! |
Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
If you are going AWD then why do you NEED straight up drag tires at that power?
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Sounds nice; post pics when you can. JDM 2g though? Since when are DSM's JDM?
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Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
Is JDM 2G the name of someone on this site or are you trying to make a JDM 2G?
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Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
Lot of things you may not need to get just 350-400whp.
-HX35, Bullseye housing Maperformance/Ebay I'd go something in bolton form with internal gate, I assume you'll be running at least 25psi on e85. Something like a e316g, 20g, or 50trim. -Turbonetics Manifold (still unsure) Keep the stock 2g manifold and port it or something -Punishment Racing o2 housing -TIAL 38MM Wastegate .9 BAR Not necessary if you stick with internal gate -DSMlink V3 -2.5" Maft? Stick with the stock 2g MAS, it'll be good for well over 400whp. -BC 272 -Competition Clutch 2300 -255hp pump -Fuel Lab/Aeromotive AFPR Kit Probably don't need that, deal with a little overrun. They are spendy. -SS fuel lines Keep the stock lines, maybe SS line from filter to rail? -1350cc/1600cc Injectors -FMIC -All Hard Piping 2.5" -3" custom exhaust HKS carbon Ti muffler -Stainless steel feed, return oil lines -Buschur Filter What's this? -Injen pipe 4" intake -EGT Gauge Don't bother -Wideband 02 Gauge Not really necessary unless you'll be doing your own tuning. -Oil Pressure Gauge -Boost Gauge -ARP head studs Make sure you get a 6 bolt motor. If you're going to do AWD with a heavy clutch you're going to risk crankwalking. -Headgasket -Timing Belt -Tires Hoosier Drag tires(not exactly street legal..lol) Please no. |
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The Injen intake is only good for a stock sized turbo, unless they make a bigger one now???
You don't need any fancy fuel lines or an aftermarket FPR, unless you plan on running 2 fuel pumps. |
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lol JDM cause i'm asian...joke...not exactly jdm..hahaha
Thanks for the input!!! i'll probably take all of that into consideration...i had to write it up kinda fast cause the wifey was pushing me to go to the gym. Air filter...i dunno i saw the air filter showdown on one of the threads and it looked like the best, but probably do a different one. The turbo, I didn't know a internal gate would hold up. but i guess it does!! awesome! even better. Tires....ya i won't do those..just want some sticky icky tires! I will post pics as soon as i can, i won't be a swifty and shaft you guys.. i'll keep it updated from time to time. :)!!! |
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I thought i needed a AFPR if i was going to run a 255hp pump? Also there is going to be a 6 bolt swap...what internals do you guys suggest or is it all personal preference?
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People have taken a completly stock 6bolt engine to 580whp +. I think you'd be fine keeping it stock for that power level.
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what about the afpr? I thought it was necessary? or am i reading threads wrong?
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You can run the 255 on the stock regulator but you'll run rich at idle and light throttle. asshanson was just saying to deal with the richness cause afpr's there expensive. Just look around for a cheap kit. I got my aeromotive for 150 with everything.
I personally would invest in one cause my gas mileage went wwaaaayy up once I installed mine. |
Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
well it's only 229 for a aeromotive fpr?? i think it's worth it for better gas mileage... i just want good parts thats all :)
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Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
Importevolution.com has a cheap push lock AFPR setup you could look into. It's the same one I'm running.
As others have said, you have a lot of un-needed parts on that list. I made 366awhp on LSE's low reading Dyno Dynamics on E85 and a PTE bolt on 50 trim. That was on a 30 minute horseshit tune I did the morning of, and on around 24psi. Make sure you research up a bit and ask plenty of questions, before wasting money. |
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How does an afpr get you better gas mileage?? That clutch is probably not going to last long at 400hp either, I would get something beefier.
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:) thats why i'm here...what clutch you recommend and what are you using for tuning(halon)?
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another reason why i listed so much is so hopefully in the future i can grow some more...
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Do a stock 6 bolt or use some 2g pistons for slightly higher compression if you want to. I wouldn't do aftermarket internals for your goals. Just use ARP headstuds and a stock headgasket. |
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That is a bolt on. MANY threads on this subject. A lot of people love this turbo, I'd say go for it. Stay away from the turbonetics manifold though. I'd look at the Forced Performance or something like that. Better quality and they just dropped the price on it. |
Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
Southbend DXD's seem to be pretty popular and much lighter pedal pressure than an ACT 2600.
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peter told me about those but does map sells those? i couldn't find those clutches..
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MAP no longer sells Southbend clutches due to frequent failures. Competition makes great clutches; stick with them and just find the right one to suit your desired power level. The 2300 (full face segmented kevlar) is a very good clutch and is what I'm running in my Evo; that should be fine for your power goals, otherwise if you want more go for the 1680 or 1620 if you feel really nuts :) Tpunx bought the 1620 for his daily-driver DSM so maybe he'll weigh in on this thoughts of it. FYI: The Competition product numbers don't correlate to the pressure plate weight. I did have a Southbend DXD in my Laser though and was very happy with it.
Check out Tom's part-out thread: http://mitsustyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21961 The Competition Stage 4 1620 clutch only has a few hundred miles on it I'm pretty sure and he only wants $250 for it. |
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I think the fuel trims can only offset so much. After I installed a 255HP in my Evo it ran noticeably richer at idle and cruise.
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To answer your question, I was using DSMLink V2 for tuning.
I ran RRE's X-Clutch on that setup. It had lighter clutch pedal pressure than an ACT2600, and a slightly higher clamping force. Excellent clutch, from an excellent company that stands behind their product. As for the AFPR, I agree save that for last. It won't stop you from making power. It will only really affect idle/low throttle situations. Fuel trims can only do so much when you are actually overflowing your mechanical parts. Trims can't will more fuel past a bottleneck in your return. If you have some money in your budget at the end, then I'd get one at the end. But I'd spend the money in better places first. |
Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
pft. I'm shafting no one. I was FORCED to do that build thread. But it's not like anyone can keep track of my setup anyway..
-A. Swift |
Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
It is not hard to tune around some overrun, it's a very minor problem, but vendors love to sell parts you don't need. You can use injectory latency, the MAF scaling tables, and your stock O2 sensor(if it's actually working, it often isn't on 1Gs) can trim it a great deal. I usually don't have any trouble getting the fuel trims within a few percent using injector latency and the MAF table. If your O2 sensor can't adjust enough at idle/part throttle to get the A/Fs back to 14.7, then your tune is off, you gained a boost leak or something else is wrong. I run my 1G in open loop with no O2 sensor at all, with a stock FPR and 255HP, so that I can actually run it leaner than stock for better gas mileage.
Both me and C3LICA have stock FPR, stock fuel lines, factory internals. C3LICA's put done in the 450s AWHP on our dyno and would probably be in the 520-535 AWHP range on a Dynojet. Mine put down in the 480s AWHP on our dyno and 563AWHP on a Dynojet. DSMs are American cars, so it's kinda hard to make a JDM one. Avoid Southbend clutches. |
Re: tehehodi/JDM 2g project car
You just need moar JDM baby batter on this tehehodi and it will all be fine.
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i agree, more jdm baby batter and i'd be good...just my wifey ran me dry lately....
anyway awesomeness! thanks for everybody's input! this is not a real JDM project...its just...n/m, i don't want to explain now..lol I'M ASIAN..:) makes my car jdm..lol no jdm hackjobs though...pure goodness |
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i know..i'km just giving you shit...now get back to work on yoru car!:sewingblue: |
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But are you actually Japanese? A lot of asians don't like the Japanese because of the shit they did during WWII.
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you can get the EDM parts for a 2g. folding mirrors,tails,fender blinkers. I have them for my spyder.
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i'm what they call twinkies, bananas, coconut....whatever.. |
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I have wondered why so many non-Japanese asians like JDM shit so much. It's like someone Jewish being obsessed with German cars. The Japanese atrocities on the 1930s and 1940s were worse than the Germans.
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Ok, lets not get this political here......Its just a joke because hes asian, and someone, possibly myself, peter, or jake called him JDM. Who knows.
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