Rattle...
 

So I am not sure if I am posting in the right area but its where i think the issue lies.
So a week ago my car started acting up. Still drives but i noticed a rattle coming from the engine. I pulled the VC to make sure nothing was rattleing around in there or didnt break a spring.
Then I emptied the tranny fluid to make sure it was still full. because it kind of sounded like it was coming from there.
It gets worse after the car has been warmed up and driven a couple miles. It sounds more like its coming from either the clutch area or inside the tranny. Im not positive.
When I drive and get passed 3k rpm the check engine light comes on, I will be hooking my laptop up to see if its just seeing a bunch of knock because of the noise or what but it seems to lack power after that RPM.
Any Ideas?

Re: Rattle...
 

Sounds like a loose flywheel or bad clutch disk. You could check the crank pulley/harmonic balancer too.

Re: Rattle...
 

Any difference when you step on the clutch at all?

Re: Rattle...
 

When i press the clutch after it has already started rattling the rattle gets a little louder for a second. I cannot feel anything on the clutch. Its still engaging and disengaging just fine.
Last time i changed out the clutch i made sure that it was torqued to spec. I suppose that doesnt mean much because they can come loose i suppose.
I was thinking it may be the clutch disk or something like that. But wouldnt i feel like the clutch was slipping or something? Im basically hoping its not anything with the tranny. But like i said im not seeing any difference in driveability except that it seems to hesitate after 3k rpm, But im thinking it may be registering the rattle as knock and messing with timing.

Re: Rattle...
 

Just wondering if it could be the throwout bearing, or something related to that.

Re: Rattle...
 

Sounds to me like a clutch disc issue. If it was the throwout bearing, it would make a grinding noise when the car is in neutral with the clutch engaged

Re: Rattle...
 

Rattle Rattle Thunder Crackle Boom Boom Boom. Don't worry, it's just Tom's car.

Re: Rattle...
 

Sounds like my car when the flywheel bolts came loos.

Re: Rattle...
 

A loose transmission could cause this, when you press on the clutch the transmission pulls away from the block, and stops rattling.

the vibration of the engine may cause the trans to slap aganst the block causing excessive knock counts = CEL

My ¢2

Re: Rattle...
 

I Checked the bolts ont he tranny and its still tight, The only one i did not check is the one on the back side of the engine, ill have to look at that this weekend.
Fly and TO bearing are definate possibilities, just dont have time or the effort to take off the tranny. One of these days ill feel extra motivated.

Re: Rattle...
 

You do not need to take the trans off to inspect the clutch! lol!

if you take the flexible boot off the clutch fork area you can have a look at pretty much everything by turning the engine over.

Your other option is to get some dyno time, and drive the car until it makes some noise, and have someone feel around until the offending part is found!

moar ¢2, so thats ¢4 now

Re: Rattle...
 

Already looked through the glory hole. Didnt really see anything out of place. The pressure plate looked very clean, no dusting or anything.
Dont really need dyno time as it does the rattle at idle after the car has been driven a bit to warm up. Free Rev and hear the tick more. It sounds like a loud version of lifter tick is i suppose the best way i can describe. Also the engine doesnt vibrate all that much. Just normal, also idle is very normal. Really the only problem is after it warms up the loud ticking and not being able to go above 3k rpms without it registering knock.

Re: Rattle...
 

So today on my way to work i logged driving using DSMlink just to see what was happening at 3000 rpm when the CEL comes on (for knock.) In the log the boostest was not even 1psi and knock shot up to 12.7 degrees, and timing dropped to 5*.
Does this sound like knock that would be caused by a noise?
Im pulling the transmission over the long break to see if maybe there is a loose flywheel bolt or something rattling around in the clutch. But to me it would seem that the knock should not shoot up like that over a rattle.

Re: Rattle...
 

An audible rattle will cause Knock. I'd inspect stuff before you do any more damage.

Re: Rattle...
 

Craigs old talon did the same thing on the dyno at db and in the end it was rod knock on 2 and 3

Re: Rattle...
 

Got the tranny off. Looks like my 6-puck clutch disk was pretty worn. On the kevlar side it was going into the rivet on one of the pucks. So im going to call southbend tomorrow (hopefully they are open) and order a new disk.
Should i a) Order a new 6 puck clutch disk from southbend or B) Go with another brand of clutch altogether.
What brand would be the best bang for the buck? Im not looking to go multi disk just yet (likely do that when i get to MN but dont have the money for one yet.) I dont think i would mind a solid hub, Im looking to lay down as much of my power to the ground, and the southbend i found to be great when i first had it but after a while i noticed it was slipping. So I think solid hub would be best.

Re: Rattle...
 

Why not a Mitsu disc?

Re: Rattle...
 

im ordering a new act 2900 with the 6 puck sprung disk tonght from MAP.

Re: Rattle...
 

Why the 6 puck? How much power do you make?

Re: Rattle...
 

Look at Competition brand clutches instead; much better quality and drivability with plenty of torque capacity. Stick with a sprung hub for a street car though.

Re: Rattle...
 

I made 333 when i dyno tuned at GTPro (But the guy did not know how to tune DSMLink and was having issues with logging so we never got a good tune out of it) Retuned with a local guy and set up dsmlinks HP rating so it matched the dyno results with logs from the dyno tune, so the HP Properties were correct, and after the retune with a local guy it was hitting 429HP. Although i think the Southbend clutch i had was slipping badly. Which i think has really be causing a problem especially lately. Thus a new clutch with more clamping force then the southbend DXD non-SS, should cause the car to actually put the power to the ground.
Mod List: http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...ogID=327387711

Re: Rattle...
 

I was saying that with a 2900 you probably could have used a regular disc, aren't the 6 pucks a little harsh for street driving?

Re: Rattle...
 

I currently have a 6 puck and its perfectly fine on the street. Really not harsh at all. But i look for a fast engagement in a clutch.

Re: Rattle...
 

So was the worn out disc the cause of the rattle?

Re: Rattle...
 

Yeah im thinking so. It was down to the rivets.

Re: Rattle...
 

So the new clutch is in and grabs like a mad man. Loving it. But the rattle is still present. but after listening to it closely originally it sounded like it was coming from the tranny area, but now its sounding like a really loud lifter tick. So tomorrow im gonna pull the VC and retorque the bolts on the cams. Hopefully i will be able to find the problem. I only wish i could start the car with the VC off so i could perhaps get a visual confirmation as to what is going on.

Re: Rattle...
 

It will start and run with the VC off just a little messy. Ive done this many times. On chevys (5.0, 5.7, ect) you adjust the valves while its running.
Joe

Re: Rattle...
 

can anyone verify if this can be done on a dsm without messing soemthing up or spraying oil everywhere? basically i would need to have it warmed up first before it starts to rattle.
Also i have the revised lifters so im sure its not the normal lifter tick.

Re: Rattle...
 

What a scary day.
first of all i retorqued the cams because the clicking is still there after the clutch install, which is causing a shit ton of knock, so the car still loses all power after 3k rpm, i put the vc back on and try and start the car, and it sounds like theres no compression, i check compression in cylinders 1 and 2 and they are both at zero
open the vc again and check it out and everything looks normal, check compression on 2 again and its showing zero but the car all of the sudden sounds like it has compression again. so i put in the spark plugs and try and start it, it starts but sounds like it is only running off 2 cylinders
shut it off, recheck the spark plugs and reseat them, and start the car and it idles perfectly. but the tick is still there, im going to change the oil as per hughes and see if that was the problem all along.
regardless the clutch needed changing, it engages really hard and i love it
my car is possesed today