hi there, i installed an hks intake and a greddy type s bov on my 03 lancer evolution this weekend. i capped off the hose port on the intake so i could blow off to atmosphere. (sounds too cool). when rpms are tached up and when the throttle is closed the rpms drop fast and then the car boggs down and sometimes stalls. i'm sure that this is because of the bov setup. i'm wondering if someone can explain why it does this and if there is a way i can fix it with still being able to b-o to atmosphere. there are currently no other mods to the vehicle. soon i will be putting on hks exhaust, apex-i safc 2, greddy turbo timer and a manual boost controller. i like to think i have more than basic car knowledge but am new to owning a turbo equipped vehicle. oh there are no diagnostic dtc's stored in ecu.
thanks alot. :stick:

There is no way to fix the problem w/o major changes to your air metering system. The car acts like that b/c the ECU thinks there should be more air going into the engine (the air that you dumped into the atmosphere from the BOV). Route your BOV back in and your car should run like new...I shouldn't change the sound too much, it will still be quite audible, especially with the hard intake pipe.

could this also cause a rough run issue at idle. feels like its missing?

Could very well be. I would atribute that to your BOV being adjusted too loosely or a leak at your BOV flange/gasket.

Yeah, you will hve to quit venting to solve the problem. Venting causes jerking between shifts and bad idle. Just connect it back to the intake. If it is too silent for you, you can cut the recirculation tube and make a fitting to allow it to partially vent if you want.

NO!

Your name definitely describes this mod. :slap:

There are so many reasons why that is a bad idea...more unmetered air to screw up how the car runs, unfiltered air, totally ghetto, and the list goes on.

word of advice new guy, don't listen to the hopkins kids

:lol:

I second that :bowdown: :lol:

thanks for your advice guys. i set it up correctly and it is much better. the bov is still pretty loud. i'm new to the turbo thing and will probably have many more questions to come. i hope i don't get too annoying. once again thanks alot for your help.
does anyone have an explination for the wierd flutter sound from the filter when the throttle closes after smaller revs. 3k.?????

That is due to how your BOV is adjusted. Par-throttle flutter is pretty normal on the Type-S, you could try softening it up just a bit, but make sure it doesn't leak under WOT conditions.

i love that sound

I posted that under his name. I thought his name would be more fitting. None of the hopkins kids run this mod (yet atleast ;) ). Unreal808 (kory) did that and said his car ran fine and sounded better. Just a suggestion.

BTW, you all better watch out when rolling through hopkins this year. You might get your asses handed to you by HORT.

HORT- Hopkins Oddball Ricing Team

:bs:

I'm quivering.

Hopkins Owns Rice Thanks

Hopkins Owns Rice Thanks [/b][/quote]
You musta meant

Hopkins' Own Ricers Team

Cher: 2
HORT: 0

oh you wait and see what will be rolling around hapkins this year. Are you scared? :3gears: Good you shouldn't be.

That HORT shit is gay. I'm thinking HWY like Hopkins whinning youth or Hopkins Wary Youth LOL.

back to the subject of the way my evolution is acting and the fact that i am 50% turbo illiterate. what would be the correct way to tune it and what are the pro's and cons of "softer or harder" adjustment. that valve should not vent at idle but how much tighter should it be???

the 'softness/hardness' is how much boost the valve actually opens before it opens/how it actually opens. A setting to hard or too soft can actually create a book leak/flutter/low boost holding capibilities. I'd recommend starting soft and working you way harder. You'll know when its right.

whats going to be my tell tail sign that its right, i'm not sure what i'm looking for. do you or anyone have any recomendations on a good place or book it read up on some turbo tech.?

Here is a decent source if you can weed between the bs and the straight and arrow. Books, go do an amazon search.
Not sure on many evo related sites, but the big dsm sites offer some good tech info (again see disclaimer above).
You'll know when its right when the 'flutter' is gone, the boost doesn't leak at idle, and the car is strong and holds the amount you want to run.

DSM-Talk
DSM-Tuners

Both great places to start. There should be more than enough info on both of those boards about your BOV.

thanks

i found a bomb ass site with the info i needed on my problem. it seems like a cool site anyone with an evo should check it out if they haven't already.
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?techID=23

You are worried about a little air when you are cutting a MAS in half and soldering some resisters in? I can tell you now that your MAS is worse than a breather filter sucking in a little air on the recirc tube.

Mr. Ghetto said nothing about putting a small filter on...he said to cut the recirculation tube.

:lol: This is great!! :woowoo:


So what was this thread about? :bounce:

1) getting an EVO to run properly

2) :bounce:

The way that Korey did it was he got a tee fitting and put a kitchen faucet strainer on the open part of it. I did this as well a while back and had absolutely no problems with it. Never ran lean, never detonated, never knocked. I am not promoting it but you can do it without any problems. It will give you a little louder blow off.

I don't have it in mine anymore. Mine is plenty loud with the open airbox. Mine is vented back the way it was from the factory. I did have fun scaring the hell out of people waling down the streets. Especially watching their dogs jump when the blow off valve hit really hard.