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Project Uber Fast GSX
Its GSX modding time!!!
Mods that will go on tonight and tomorrow: PTE SCM6152E Turbo O2 housing with external dump to atmosphere 4" deep FMIC Magnus SMIM Magnus Fuel Rail FIC 950cc injectors Pruven Performance Head Metal Head gasket Greddy Type S Bov FuelLab FPR with 10an SS Lines DSMLink 3" Exhaust Tial 38mm WG w/ Race valve. AEM WBO2 1g Throttle body Forge MBC 2.5" IC Piping from my GST - Adding bead on ends of each pipe, repainting and putting in. Unorthodox Racing crank pully *if time Southbend DXD 6 puck clutch. Things that will be removed: A/C Cruise control Pics of the build will be posted later. |
Re: Project Uber Fast GSX
very nice
post them pics soon |
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Sounds nice. Just make sure you add Fire extinguisher to that list. :)
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SC61, don't you mean "mildly fast"? :-)
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Fire extinguisher has been in the car since i bought it. my buddy took one from an apartment complex and gave it to me. So its a big freakin bottle one. I think im going to paint it gloss black though.
The 10 AN Lines only go from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, then from the other side of the fuel rail to the FPR then i think its 8 an from the reg to the stock return line. Eventually i would like to go 10an from tank to rail. but i think i would need another pump just to fill the line itself. I really hate that an SCM61 is considered a small turbo now. I should have just said fuck it and got a GT42R, At least that would have been considered big for a month or two. buying a turbo for a dsm is like buying a PC, by the time it reaches your house there is already a bigger and better one on the market. The main goal for this car is i would like to be over 600 to the wheels. Not sure if ill do it with these parts or if i have to go bigger, but that is definatly the goal. |
Re: Project Uber Fast GSX
Sweet, good luck!
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Oops forgot, also adding a Unothodox Racing crank pully :) its so much lighter then the stock one, its all aluminum. Still contimplating swapping the clutch over (Southbend DXD 6 puck) this weekend, but i dont know if i will have time, so i may stick with whats in there (unsure).
Im actually really surprized at how this car shifts, 7000+ RPMs shifts like butter. Anyone know a good way to tell if the tranny was built by shep or if it was built by someone else? |
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Umm you might want to rethink that crank pulley. There is a reason people use the stock dampened ones.
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Leave the stock DAMPENED pulley on the car. If you insist on replacing it, I think Buschur and a few other companies make aftermarket dampened ones.
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I would like to know why as well? I dont have an AC belt, and there shoudl be enough flex in the Alternator belt to not really need dampening. Someone please shed some light on this?
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=600&page=1 this is the pulley i am talking about. not exactly cheap but a buddy gave it to me for free because i fixed his timing belt. |
Re: Project Uber Fast GSX
Just looked it up and found some good information. Looks liek that pulley is not going on my car.
Why your engine needs a damper: Each time the air/fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that occurs creates a torque spike that is applied to the crankshaft through the piston and rod. This torque spike is so severe that it not only turns the crankshaft, it actually twists the crankshaft ahead of its normal rotation and then the crankshaft rebounds. This twisting action is known as torsional vibration. When these torque spikes and forces get into phase with the natural frequency, critical torsional harmonic vibrations occur and can be seriously destructive to the bearings and the crankshaft. Dampers are designed to control those destructive vibrations. Rubber VS Silicone Fluid: Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage. Damper Facts: 1.) Most stock dampers are actually tuned absorbers and do not work when the the engine is modified from the original set-up. 2.) The damper is not a balancer. It's job is to control torsional vibrations. 3.) The silicone inside a Fluidampr will not expire and is not effected by temperature change. 4.) An externally balanced assembly should be balanced with only the counterweight or stock damper installed. |
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sounds like a ctrl + V from the fluidampr site.
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The project is coming along nicely. Last night i got home at around 6 pm and started crankin on it at around 7 until around 1:30. Managed to get the engine bay stripped down to basically the wiring harness and a block and tranny (no head). This morning i woke up and got right to it. (im worthless in the morning and day.) I got the new throttle cable in, got the head loaded and in (wished i could have used my ARPs from the 6 bolt, oh well). The intake mani is on, Turbo, WG and manifold are on, timing belt is retensioned and on, needed to remake the bracket for the coil packs because there wasnt a hole close enough to the top of the head so i had to use a lower hole and extend the bracket with the trusty ol welder. i made a bead on the ends of all of my ic piping so it can hold more boost, then repainted them black. Got the FPR mounted and hooked up, along with the fuel rail. Its now 3am so i think im calling it a night and will finish tomorrow. :) So far it has gone by really fast. The tear down took almost no time whatsoever. I have been taking lots of pics, and will post them soon. I finally realised something, lately i have been doing A LOT of side jobs with people that need shit done with their DSMs, (trannys, timing belts, turbo installs, repairs etc) and now that im finally working on my own car again, its actually really fun again. I wasnt having fun with the other cars i was working on for many reasons such as wanting to get them done and out of my garage as fast as possible, and i think the main reason, is that i know that there will be a huge benefit from this build HP wise. It just proves the statement "you cant turn a hobby into a job." Sure working on DSMs helped make rent while i was laid off, but it stopped being fun. |
Re: Project Uber Fast GSX
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Here are some pics to start.
Picked up the car looking like this http://www.dsmstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16956 Here is a couple pics before i really started the build. I changed the rims, added a side skirt from my White GST and painted it red, painted the mirrors red as well. The middle picture is me and a couple friends :) Count the dsms... Also not shown is my white gst which is hiding on the side of my house. Third pic is of the engine bay before the build |
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Here are some pictures of the progress of the build.
More pics coming tomorrow of hopefully a finished project. |
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so its all done. Ill post pics later.
Couple typical things though. I have a couple boost leaks that i have to take care of, it sounds like around the intake mani and throttle body. and i have an exhaust leak, which im going to have to figure out. The car pulls insane. The lowest my boost controller is allowing is 27PSI, but on the dsmlink it shows little to no knock at that high of boost. |
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Wow, you got a lot done fairly quickly! Congrats Tom!
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Badass, i got some things to do to my car also.
what kinda gas are you running to allow that high of boost levels? |
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LOL 91 California gas going through FIC 950 Injectors. Worst gas, it looks like water its so clear.
For the track day and days i want more boost i will run some 110 that is sold at a gas station right down the street. Come track day i would like to be running approx 35 psi. |
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I guarantee that you aren't running little to no knock on an untuned car on 91 octane and 27 psi. Aren't you on stock headstuds? I know you said you couldn't use your ARP's. Don't blow up what you just got done working on, get that shit turned down and work your way up.
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thats the funny part. Its at the lowest boost the MBC will do. Im thinking that my MBC is fucked up. I have a 1bar spring in the WG, the MBC is a Forge Unos, and i dont have the smaller spring for it. so i think this is the lowest. I am considering buying the Gizzmo Electronic Boost controller that is good up to 3.5 bar (50 psi).
Im going to get the headstuds before the track day on the 27th Ill just take it east on the car till then. |
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So if you have a 1 bar spring in the wastegate then why not run straight off the wastegate, 1 bar is ~14.7 PSI. Tom, your logic would baffle even Einstein.
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I just changed that actually so that it is now running off the wg. I also found the exhaust leak. I didnt tighten the wg all the way, so the exhaust leak shoudl be gone now.
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here are the new pics.
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Those fuel lines look so big, haha!
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THEY ARE! Have you seen the magnus fuel rail before, I can almost fit a quarter in the barrel.
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Make sure the top port on the Tial wastegate is open to atmosphere, that would cause an overboosting problem it if was capped or had boost going to it. But Forge stuff does suck, I don't like their boost controllers or BOVs.
Do you guys have cams in it? |
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No cams, thats one of my next upgrades. I was thinking 280s The tial port is not blocked.
its now not using the MBC and working at 14psi. Wierd thing though, now that im working at 14psi i did a quick pull, it sounded great spooling up but it hits 14 psi and sounds like a super charger whine. this could be normal as i am used to the sound of not having a dump tube like on my old setup, and this could very well be the dump tube sound. It doesnt sound bad, just different. I may just pick up a cheapo MBC to tide me over until i get some money for the Gizzmo Electric one. Other then that i love the setup, it feels really strong. |
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Get a $45 Joe P., I really liked that MBC; it was definitely nicer than my $13 eBay one.
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61mm turbos HATE stock cams. It should really come alive with some cams.
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I love the new intercooler the dimensions are 31x11.75x4" from siliconeintakes.com after driving home boosting here and there, the hot side is warm the cool side is freakin ice cold. last night my intake temps never got over 67 degrees.
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Just curious, but at idle, dos your magnus make it sound like your car has a huge vaccuum leak? I've got one on my 1g and it makes a high pitch whisteling sound, but I don't have any leaks.
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yes it does, and it always throws me off. Because it idles kinda rough so i hear that whistle and think its a boost leak. It almost sounds like its coming from the throttle body. its great to know that im not the only one expirencing this. I like to think of it as the horseys wanting to come out and play.
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So tomorrow the Cams should come in (yeah one day before the street legal drags at california speedway) Also tonight i tried launching the car and the clutch slips under a hard lauch (15psi and 4-5k rpm) So im also gonna swap the clutch that was in my GST (Southbend DXD 6 puck.) So hopefully that will help with the launch, i know it helped a ton on my gst. I have a long night ahead of me.
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