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Injectors
Well, I have been looking for 1600cc injectors and found these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku These are the correct ones, right? Anyone want to go in on a set? $200 for 4. |
Re: Injectors
I'd write them and make 100% sure they are in stock. And ask them twice. Everywhere I tried to buy them from were sold out for an indefinate period of time.
I ended up giving up, and just bought a set from LSE. But if you find out they are in stock, hit me up on AIM, I'd be willing to get another set. |
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Also, DSM injectors are peak and hold, those are saturated style injectors
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The factory DSM ECU and his AEM EMS are designed to run high impedance saturated injectors. Mitsu just went the cheapo route and threw a resistor box in to allow the use of low impedance injectors. The ECU still runs them like a saturated inj, it doesn't do anything special to truely make use of a peak and hold style pulse.
Those injectors are a weird ohm, but the AEM EMS seems to have a Ford Motorsport 152lb 5ohm injector in the injector wizard. |
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After researching all of thise awhile back, what I gathered was all these other companies selling 1600cc injectors (PTE, FIC...) they all are using the Ford injectors, and just reselling them under their own name. Matter of fact some of the injectors people are receiving from these companies, there's a ford logo on some of them. There are a couple different companies who make these for ford (Bosch, i forgot the others) which is why you will see some that are different colors (white, red, grey).
From everything I've found, these are basically the same injectors you will get from any other source, and will perfom the same as anything you'd buy from one of the DSM vendors. Slight machining to the injector or the fuel rail may be required though. Not really a big deal though. |
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Thanks a ton Shane! So I can get these, kill the resistor box and be good to go. Excellent!
Once again, anyone else wanna go in on a set? :D |
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For $200 I'll definitley take a set! E85 here I come!
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No, you will still need a resistor box, resistors or an injector driver box. They are still a lower resistance injector than a normal saturated 11-16ohm injector, so more resistance would need to be keep in the loop to keep from burning up the injector drivers in your ECU. Who knows if they are really saturated injectors though. I don't trust Summits info 100%, the Ford Motorsport catalog doesn't mention if it's saturated or peak and hold, and a saturated injector of that large a size is quite unusual.
I wonder how well they are calibrated though. In the Ford Motorsport catalog, they sell matched sets of injectors that flow within 1% of each other and that type of injector is not available in matched sets. |
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Ya you will still need the resistor box as these are still low impedance injectors.
Make sure they are in stock though Jet. I had put in several orders with companies who said they had them in stock, until I put in an order and a day later I get an email saying sorry, they are on backorder for a week. I ended up waiting a good 3 months for these until I finally gave up and just bought a set of PTE's. |
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I have a set of PTE's that I bought from Shane last year, they didnt have anything on them that showed them to be Ford injectors but I'm sure they are damn near all the same.
Although I am interested in buying up a set as well. I will need another 4 in order to run methanol this year. So if you find someone and anyone else wants to go in on a set, let me know. |
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but with these Ford injectors - don't you have to drill out your fuel rail to run them? The Precision's are direct swaps.
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Yes like I said above, sometimes slight machining is needed. Doesn't FIC machine the injector tips down a hair before sending them out now? Maybe PTE does the same. Anyone know for sure?
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It probably isn't even 5 minutes to ream the rail out a bit bigger.
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Exactly. Save 200 bux, but have to open up the hole in the rail. I'd take that trade off anyday.
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Since I'm running an anodized rail, reaming it out just isn't an option. Brian at PTE informed me that there is absolutely no need to drill out the fuel rail. To me, that alone is worth the extra $100. Good luck to you guys that are going to run them. If you need an extra rail (if you drill it out too far), I have a spare.:D
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See this is where you being so god damn fucking picky hurts you!
Run a stock rail, tap it out to accept NPT fittings and get a AN to NPT fitting. No drilling, just tapping, then ream out the injector bungs, take it to get it anodized for $10 and what do you know... just saved $300-$400 from using the stock rail which will flow plenty of fuel, and buying these injectors! |
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Got the fuel rail for free when I purchased my SMIM. So in reality, I actually saved $100 overall - while upgrading the rail and using PTE's. :biggrin:
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No cause you are still spending extra money on the injectors. Drill out your rail and have it re-anodized, then buy the injectors. :p
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I'm guessing its so the E85 wont "corrode" the inside of the fuel rail.
I will need to get my stock rails done in order to run Methanol. Because that actually shows signs of corrosion on aluminum compared to E85 after 3 months. |
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Who knows. One day I just might dump in some methanol for shits and giggles. I'm aware that the stock rails will flow enough fuel. I just wanted the super cool ginormous rail with "Magnus Motorsports" etched into it. Plug and play saves me the hassle of reaming it and threading it for AN fittings. So, I waste time reaming my stock rail out and threading it. I'll have to buy a drill bit (I don't have something that large) and a tap with AN threading. Then, I'll have to anodize the rail. All of which cost money. I'm just guesstimating, but it might be around $50 in overall savings - which to me is worth not having to deal with it.
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You can just say that you paid some extra money for bling, don't try and rationalize it. |
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Did you ever scratch something you were working with, say an anodized fuel rail? |
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I don't know why you need to anodize the rail unless you're using methanol. E85 isn't corrosive enough to warrant it. So you hog out a stock rail with a big drill bit. Total cost, about $12 for nice bit. Not too tough.
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I want my setup to be ready to accept methanol, if I ever feel the need to drop some in. The entire fuel system will be very large - from the cell to the injectors and back. Besides, I got the rail for FREEEEEEEE!!
Actually, I think the profits from the SMIM paid for it and then some. But that's another story for another thread. |
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i love my Super Cool Ginormous Fuel Rail. Cant wait to put the engine in and get some pics up of the entire setup. |
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No, I'd actually bring it to a machinist, such as yourself. So if it's scratched in the process, the machinist/you would have to anodize it again.
I'll put it simply this way. You can buy injectors that are designed for the fuel rail. Or you can make your fuel rail work with the injectors you want. I'd rather not ream out a $175 fuel rail and it's already anodized. The risks outweigh the reward. You however have the opportunity to just buy another rail for $20 and try again. Once you have it done the way you like it, you get to anodize it. By no means am I tell you or anyone else to not use the Ford injectors. It's a great deal to make them work on a fuel rail that is cheap and accessible to get your hands on. I'm just saying in my situation, it is not the right thing to do. You can simply accept that or let this thread drag on. |
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Drag on, how about using a lathe and turning down the end to fit the mitsu rail, then you will not scratch your anodizing.
~John |
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How much does a lathe cost?
How much would it cost for me to use LSE's (probably wouldn't let me)? How much for LSE to do it? All options point to one thing in my situation - JUST BUY PTE. |
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I was just posting up a different option.
~John |
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We would charge $40, the same price that PTE charges to perform the service :violin: Otherwise, just buy the bolt-in ones. |
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:deadhorse: GOD DAMN YOU DEAD HORSE! Ha ha ha....
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