is it possible to put a 4g64 in a 1g car and what do u need?

Advice: Stick with the 4g63.

I was just wondering if there is any specific logic to this? I don't care for the 2.4 '64 thing much my self but I almost feel like I am missing out on something. I know most of the benefits and down sides but more insight is always welcome.

I was just wondering if there is any specific logic to this? I don't care for the 2.4 '64 thing much my self but I almost feel like I am missing out on something. I know most of the benefits and down sides but more insight is always welcome. [/b][/quote]
Well, I'm going to toss out my $0.02 as how I interpreted .guest.'s comment. I believe he is saying that if DJGHOST has not done enough research on the 4G64 to know whether it is possible to do the 4G64/63 swap, he should probably be straying away from it.

Yes, it is possible. The only real downside is the extra torque that may break tranny parts. If you can call that a bad thing! Oh, and Nash will call you a cheater :P

You do have to buy some specialized parts to do it though.

Well, I'm going to toss out my $0.02 as how I interpreted .guest.'s comment. I believe he is saying that if DJGHOST has not done enough research on the 4G64 to know whether it is possible to do the 4G64/63 swap, he should probably be straying away from it. [/b][/quote]
Hey, at least someone understands my bitchy asshole responses. :banana:

Hey, at least someone understands my bitchy asshole responses. :banana: [/b][/quote]
Hey I'm only 75% newbie, then maybe when I finally purchase my own DSM, I'll be down to 50% newbie :lol: :lol:

Having too much torque is like having too many fine women and too much money at your dispossal. ;)

One of the reasons I went with the 2.4L is the fact that my car is heavy. 3400lbs without the driver. Torque is what launches and accelerates a car. HP is just a calculated figure based on how much work that engine can do over a period of time. There will be many who will jump in on this and say I'm wrong, but I'm not. It's great to build an engine that can make 800hp, but if only makes it from 7000-9000rpm what good it is to you. With a 2.4L you can make the same power as the 2.0L with less boost and less strain on the internals of the engine. There is a point where the added stroke will come into play though, you will not be able to rev it as high. For a street driven car the 2.4L makes more sense. For an all out drag car where high rpm & high boost are the way to go, the 2.0L or the 2.14L will work great. When I look at a dyno sheet I look for the torque curve first, that tells me how usable the engine's power is.

No FLAMING.
If you don't agree then say so and why. Any remarks that are intended to start shit will be deleted.

Hey I'm only 75% newbie, then maybe when I finally purchase my own DSM, I'll be down to 50% newbie :lol: :lol: [/b][/quote]
Ah, i'm just in a cranky mood. 2.4's are nice but only a few will have nicely running ones imho. The others who attempt it will never finish it or will probably not even get them started. There's the advantage of using bigger turbos and having a nice powerband with big power capable turbos. It's more of a just nice to have imo.

:woowoo: I have also read that the 2.4's crankwalk also. This is just me benchracing though.

Hey, at least someone understands my bitchy asshole responses. :banana: [/b][/quote]
I should have taken it at face value, oh well.

and to npaulseth: ANY MOTOR CAN CRANK WALK!! 2.4, 2.0, 350sbc, it doesn't matter! 7-bolts are prone to it, so a 7-bolt 2.4 is going to be just as prone to it as a 7-bolt 2.0.

You can build a 6-bolt 2.4L ;)

is there any siginificant way to stop crankwalk on a 7bolt? I thought I remember Raptor saying something about that, when he was thinking about rebuilding Fast Toms 7bolt?

People have toyed with the idea of modifying the thrust bearing for better lubrication, upping the oil pressure, blocking off the 2g squirters and installing 1g squirters and so on. But I don't think anybody truely has a handle on it yet.

4G64 7-bolts don't have oil squirters. I haven't heard of them crankwalking much either compared to how often the 2G 4G63's crankwalk. And there are probably a lot more of the 4G64 7-bolts out there than 2G 4G63 7-bolts. 1G 4G63 7-bolts really don't crankwalk all that often compared to the 2Gs either.

Put an auto on it and I bet it won't crankwalk.

From what I've read, people were looking at adding a different bearing. Everyone has there own solution. I know that any motor can crankwalk, the 7 bolts are just a lot more prone to it. Someone built up a 2.4 specifically because they had never heard of it CWing, and it did. Now I haven't heard much about the 6 bolt 2.4's, but if you could get the extra .4L and have an engine that could still rev up to 7k, that would be awsome. Noah

Do they make any decent stall converters for DSMs?

The one 7-bolt 4G64 I heard of crankwalking was caused by an assembly or startup error. It crankwalked within 50 miles. That is not normal crankwalk. It can take 50,000+ miles for crankwalk to show up, that is some other type of fuckup that caused it to crankwalk. Are there lots of others?

I think Precision Industries does.

How does 8500rpm sound?

Sounds like high piston speeds and scored cylinder walls with the shitty rod ratio of the 2.4s, even with long rods.

Marco spins his to 9500rpm and hasn't had it happen yet.

I read a post about a guy who bougth a 2.4 7bolt. had it build but it CW'd just after the break in miles.

I believe it was Marco build?

Reason I ask all this is because. Of the issues I'm running into with my car. If I have to upgrade I was just wondering instead of having to spend $3000 or what ever just for the bottom end/etc.

I was hopeing to just upgrade the internals. And just have the bottom end Honned.etc.

I swore Mike said that was something about a Pin you could put in place/etc?

figure my motors lastest 50K miles. And to be honest almost all of it (was abuse)

Ya I drive slowly for DD when in traffic,etc. But as soon as a lane opens up or I get on a side street I'm Always accelerating hard to the speed limits. (kind of get the mentality of an Auto crosser on my drive to and from work sometimes)

And then we all know what has happened late at night when I go out.

-brian

Brian, I'd just do a cheap rebuild and save your money for your future breakage. :bounce:

haha.

I'm just trying to do the most with what I have available. Believe me I want to do it right the first time. With out cutting corners but to come up with something like $4-5K will take me over a year to save up.

But if I can do it with say 2K that might be something I could accomplish in the next 5 months.

But once the final diagnosis that my motor is Shot (which I personally Think/Believe it's far from) I'll be diving into research on which motor I'd go with .

Probably a 2.14 but the 2.4 also is a possibility. Hopefully when the time comes to do a rebuild. There will be more local personal experience with those 2 motor.

-brian

Talk with Raptor, he's spent some time looking into the 2.14L

Marco spins his to 9500rpm and hasn't had it happen yet. [/b][/quote]
Marco is full of crap! I saw one of his pistons in person and it was scored on the sides. I believe that is the one that he spun to 9500. I am setting my redline at 7800, but it ain't no puny 3.38L either like the Magnus :P

Raptor was probably talking about dowelling the main caps. Do that and line hone it and it should be a lot better.

Marco is full of crap! I saw one of his pistons in person and it was scored on the sides. I believe that is the one that he spun to 9500. I am setting my redline at 7800, but it ain't no puny 3.38L either like the Magnus :P

Raptor was probably talking about dowelling the main caps. Do that and line hone it and it should be a lot better. [/b][/quote]
Is doweling the main caps the theory that "NosLaser" from Tuners has put together that I posted up on here back in the day?

Doweling refers to installing dowel pins into the main caps & block prior to align honing the block. That way when main caps are removed and reinstalled they will mate back together correctly.