Just thought you guys and gals might want to see the parts. Nice work by Magnus.

There is a problem that Marco is working on though. Marco guaranteed me that they would drill the boss for the knock sensor. Well they forgot to do it, so I figured I could do it with no problem, BUT there is a problem. There is no boss to be drilled on the rear side of the block. So Marco is trying to figure something out to fix this, not sure what that would be though. I'm trying to stay cool and calm about this with Magnus for now. If anybody has any ideas, let me know. As of now, the engine is rapped up in plastic waiting for this to be taken care of.

http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-015S.JPG
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-014S.JPG
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-018S.JPG
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-019S.JPG
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-017S.JPG

Ummm, the boss, pardon? :bounce: :bounce:

What type of head will you be using Mike, 1G or 2G?

BOSS refers to a cast in block of metal or surface that allows for drilling and tapping.

1G head.

A 2.4 I presume? If so the 6-bolt block that comes from doesn't have a boss on the number 2 cylinder like the two liters have. There's a boss closer to cylinder number one you could use, but I'm interested to hear what porn-star Marco comes up with.

-edit- I see it is a 2.4 since it uses the individual main caps instead of the regular girdles. Very nice indeed. Is that the long rod or regular rod version?

Another thing, did he put in oil squirters? I noticed the pistons aren't coated.

I want one. :bowdown"

wow, pretty. who are u stealing from to get money to buy shit like that?

2.4L stage 4 (lightened rotating assembly)
Long Rod
No oil squirters
1G head Stage 3 port work/1mm oversize Ferrea valves/ double springs

Marco said the pistons will be fine without the coating or squirters.

Hard work, my boy, hard work. ;)

Lightened rotating assembly? The crank looks rebalanced but stock. Is the crank pulley cut down or something?

There are some bosses on the front side of the block that could be used, but I'm concerned about heat damage to the sensor from the exhaust/manifold heat.

500 grams are removed from the rods and pistons

What reasoning other than insanity is behind this? ;)

(Looking for a serious answer...)

Is this the same as your block?

What reasoning other than insanity is behind this? ;)

(Looking for a serious answer...) [/b][/quote]
One less problem to worry about, but the pistons will get pretty hot and probably cause detonation earlier. I thought most people were putting a heat coating on instead. I'd trust Marco though, he's the 2.4 king.

How are the oil squirters something to worry about?

It looks the same except for the hole thats tapped next to the 2 middle ribs at the center near the deck surface. The pic you put up has it, mine doesn't. Even if mine had that extra hole driiled and tapped, it wouldn't allow the knock sensor to mount flush.

Here's another pic of what I'm talking about.

It is believed that a faulty or leaking squirter could contribute to the "crankwalking" problems with these engine. I do know that John Shepherd's engine has them blocked off as well as Marco's with no problems.

Nice nice nice....... :)

Did you get that pic from a site dedicated to 2.4L issues?

I figure you guys are doing that because you're going for the big power and drag racing. I'm working toward building my car for road racing, so with that in mind would removing the oil squirters be a wise thing?

No. Oil squirters aren't as needed in drag cars. In a road race car you want every thing you can get to try to keep your engine cool.

Exactly. For shep and others that mostly only run the 1/4 it really doesn't matter. They do say coating the pistons can be an adequate substitute for the squirters on the street.

As for the knock sensor, I have read somewhere that one guy modified one of the freeze plugs and put it back in which is close to the original location. You could probably get one machined for press fit out of steel and even have a step left in the side so it would help keep it in place. Maybe add a little JB weld for extra safety. I am sure that would solve the problem and be safer than drilling new holes in the casting on the block.

Looks like the white whale should be hauling ass pretty well now. As long as Mike doesn't have a geriatric nap attack while staging.

I'm thinking about installing an "air to oil" oil cooler also which will keep the pistons cooler with what oil does hit the back of them from the rods & crank. Don't forget about that 160 deg thermostat also.

Did you get that pic from a site dedicated to 2.4L issues? [/b][/quote]
It's an old picture gallery someone put up a while back when 2.4's were unheard of. The pics are of a G64B block, the ones I sold recently were the G64CS blocks, not sure which one you have. I'd guess Marco probably ground off the identification.

Besides that site, I haven't found much on the 2.4 info, mostly pieces in the NABR archives.

Yeah, I've got one on mine. Not sure how much cooler the air model is than the sandwich type, but I was going for the minimalist approach, and wanted to eliminate as many oil and coolant lines around the engine as possible.

I've been asked to post updates on how this engine build-up is coming, so rather than start a new thread I figured I would just add to this one.

Front cover assmbly installed and oil pan ready to go on.
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-001S.JPG
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-003S.JPG

Oil pan on
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-010S.JPG

Cometic HP gasket in place
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-012S.JPG

Cylinder head torqued in place
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicious/MVC-013S.JPG

One note:
I had to slightly shave down the diameter of the ARP nut shoulder on 4 of the stud nuts to clear the valve springs and shims. Has anybody seen this before? I was surprised by that. I guess Marco used over-sized springs on the head.

I'm at the point now where I will be pulling out my old engine to start swapping parts (cam, gears, rockers, etc.).

yes if seen that before. on my car and 2 of my friends. I just got a punch and a hammer and just hammered em down in there. But it's not like i have a brand new expensive ass setup like yours, so i was willing to break out a hammer on mine!

Whao! Nice...
looks like my 2.4 setup I had goin for my ACR..... then I sold it all before it was installed.
Kinda scary thowin together a $7000 motor for a neon.... Kaboom would suxors! :razz2:

looking good. When you pull the old motor could you mabey do a pic with both of them side by side so you can see any difference in them (if any noticeable from the outside). I was just wondering if there was much if any difference.

Yeah, I was thinking about doing that anyway.
I think the most noticable difference will be the size of the ports (intake & exhaust).

The new motor is cleaner, and the block is slightly (not noticeable in a picture) taller. ;)

Yeah, if you can see an extra 6 mm in deck height without using the timing belt cover as a guide, I'd be impressed.

He is probably used to seeing something only 6mm in length so his eyes are well trained. :stick:

LMAO hahaha

Well my car started sputtering, coughing, and choking today, then it finally spit out a nasty hair ball.

http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicio...ne%20gone2.JPG
http://www.unix-networking.com/Vicio...ne%20gone3.JPG

It feels much better now. ;)

:drool: I love white DSMs/cars.

Mike is the dealership you work at allowing you to use their space for 'the big project'?

Yeah, with a little persuasion. ;)

God, that second pic looks all too familar to me. :)