Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

+1

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

That will be checked when the head is off.

Noob question, can you reuse any types of headgaskets, like the permatorque or cometic mls? Like if I take the head off, turns out seals and guides are terrible so I fix that and reinstall the head. But then I need to take it apart again to also do the rings.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

keep in mind..these are two totally seperate things. You can do the seals without pulling the head either andrew..and if it burns alot of oil, that could very well be it.

-A. Swift

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Not unless you want to deal with it possibly pushing coolant. The Permatorque is sticky like fly paper and the Cometic MLS comes with it's own kind of coating on it that will likely stick the head and block when you remove the head. You could be ghetto and copper spray the MLS and try to reuse it. The Mitsu MLS would be the easiest one to try to reuse.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

I found out there are two types of Permatorque headgaskets: single layer and MLS. Which do I get?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

The multi-layer one is the new hot head gasket, unfortunately they are on backorder everywhere at the moment, we have several on order :(

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

I will pick one up on Friday/Saturday with the bearings and my coated parts if you have them in by then :D

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I'm hoping but we haven't heard any updates :( What bearings do you need? ACL race for 6 bolt?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Yep the tri-metals for 6 bolt, standard size. I called and was told you have several in stock. $35-40 for the set if I remember correctly?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Do you need just rods or mains or the full set sir?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Just rod bearings. I'm not taking the crank out or anything.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

OK cool yeah that pricing sounds right.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Got the turbo and related parts all coated and picked them up. Also got the turbo rebuilt because it was apparently leaking/burning a decent amount of oil.

Tonight I got the xfer case and oil pan off, and it turns out my motor has a crank scraper. Should I keep this in there or get rid of it? I called the motor builder and he verified he installed one several years back.

E-PSI has been super dumb about shipping me new rings, so I'm calling Magnus first thing tomorrow and ordering directly from them since they had Ross make them originally. They couldn't tell me what rings were necessary until I had the exact piston numbers scratched onto the bottom, which is why I delved into it tonight.

Oil pan was super clean, and from what I've seen so far from the bottom of the motor the cylinder walls look really good still. I should have the head off tomorrow, hopefully I'll get some pics posted up.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

My vote is keep the crank scraper. If your worried about oil leaking just make sure to RTV it right nice and proper.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Got the head and intake manifold off tonight, took me about 3 hours. Not too bad considering it's my my first time doing the timing belt stuff with the motor in the car.

This also exposed all the brake lines in the engine bay so I decided to start on the ABS delete. I got the lines off the master, and removed all the lines to the proportioning valve. Now I just need to get to the store and get a 10mm flare wrench so I can remove the rusty front brake lines from the SS lines in the wheel wells. Should have that done tomorrow, and install the new non-ABS lines I got from Mitsu.

How do I get the ABS unit out of the fender area? Do I have to remove the bumper cover to get to all the bolts?

Anyone else care to comment on the crank scraper? I'm not really sure what it's benefits are, and if I'll actually need one making around 400-450 hp.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

You will make more than that.
Good luck.

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I hate e85 right now. Bought some really clean used BlueMax 1350s about two months ago, put around 600 miles on them. And I get this shit, even though they are e85 "safe".

I'm going to do a tank of pump gas during motor break in and see if they clean up. Apparently people on the dsmlink forum have had good success with that cleaning them up. I'll also clean them up best I can with some carb cleaner.

I never had a huge issue with the 1600s building up goop, maybe it's the Iowa stations that have this junk in them, I always go to the same one here.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Ghey.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

That is ghey. I'm really glad I haven't run into that yet. Yet another set of FIC's with the same issue. I swear 90% of the people having this issue are using those FIC injectors with the "belled" tip on them.

Are you in Iowa or MN? If you're here, I can lend you my flare wrench set.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

I would call fic and talk to them about it.

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I noticed quite a bit of buildup on both intake and exhaust valves, but it's weird looking, like it's only built up in certain spots.

Also, when I took off the head, I noticed the headgastket was pretty slimy with grayish oil all over, not sure if it was leaking really bad or if that's just from when I took off the head. Maybe thats why it was burning so much oil, and not the rings? It was on both sides of the gasket too, not just the top. Would a really blown headgasket cause a lot of oil burning or low compression? I know my turbo was burning some oil, but that doesn't explain the low compression.

I'm taking the head to a machine shop tonight after work and hopefully find out if it's ok.

What's a good way to clean up those pistons? wd 40 and a rag?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Hmm that is really weird.. the headgasket should be fairly dry. Maybe that was the issue, but hard to tell.

Do the rings, freshen everything up. Do it right this time and it should be good!

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

If the head gasket was super blown your engine probably wouldnt have even ran. But if it was leaking, you would get low compression and lots of oil useage. It could also just be from separating the head from the block, thats not the cleanest operation in the world. And WD-40 or just some parts cleaner and a rag will work fine to get most of that out of there, but those carbon deposits might be a tougher challange.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

I thought about this for a bit, and decided it was definitely leaking quite a bit. It wasn't just oil, when I took off the head it didn't leak any, and when I turned it upside down a lot of black oil came out as expected. The stuff on both sides of the headgasket was grayish slimy stuff. On the plus side, nothing was caked or coated on either the head or block, both are pretty smooth. Maybe because it's an MLS gasket, because when I took off a stock headgasket on another motor there was stuff stuck everywhere on the block and head.

Not sure if this is a big deal, but 3 or 4 of the 10 headstuds actually came out with the nuts, so maybe they weren't tightened all the way?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Drain your coolant, see if there is any oil in it. Or when you drained oil, was there coolant in it?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Coolant and oil are both pretty clean. I have a gallon container of the oil i drained, it's been sitting for a few days and there is zero coolant at the top. Also the coolant gallon is pretty green still. So yea I'm not sure what is up.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

I woulndt worry about it, I think it was just from seperating the two honestly.

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The coolant would be at the bottom of the oil. But it would take a couple months to separate like that. Was the oil milky colored at all when you drained it?

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I know oil floats on water, but I could have sworn I mixed a gallon of coolant and black used oil together and within a day all the coolant was on top.

Anyway, got a good amount of progress done tonight. Got the rest of the ABS brake lines out, as well as the control unit in the fender. I also got all the new lines installed and hooked up, that was a pain in the ass. Bendy SS lines would have been a million times easier.

You can see on the bottom corners of the new proportioning valve where the primary/secondary lines from the master cylinder go to, instead of to the ABS control unit. It definitely helped clean up the engine bay a bit, I don't have a bunch of lines running to the front corner and back again. You can also see the new hole I have in the fender.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

your car is cleaaaaaan! i have rust.. :)

at least you get to work on your car! looking good though! keep it up! i'm liking what i see!!! that and i can't wait to party with you again on the spring cruise.. :p!!!

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

An engine mixes the oil and coolant much better than you could ever do it by hand, and it also depends on the amount of coolant in the oil. Again, was the oil milky colored when you drained it?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

No, it was pretty black. Just the stuff on the headgasket/block was milky. Also the headstuds had the milky stuff on them when I took them out.

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Looks like you're making some good progress on the car! Those brake lines suck to install, especially the going to the driver side caliper. haha

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Yea that was the worst of the four by far. Got the brakes all bled today. Tried gravity bleeding but that didn't work for two of the four lines, I had to have emily step on the brake and force fluid into each individually. After that I was able to gravity bleed any of them, but since she was already helping I had her do the push push hold method, it seemed to go quicker.

Once it's running I'll drive around for a bit and then rebleed the entire system.

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Got the cylinders all lightly ball honed, but they were in pretty much perfect shape still. Also got all the new rings filed and pistons installed. All that is left is to install is the head and button things up. I decided to go with .020 for the top ring and .023 for the second, hope that works out alright for me. I also lined up the gaps to where they're supposed to go, I never realized the locations were so specific. Good thing I had someone helping me.

The old rings were gapped at .024 and .028, so that explains the blowby and low compression numbers.

Oh, is it normal for a company to ship 9 ring sets? I only ordered and paid for 4 sets, but I got a box with 9 of them. Is that in case you mess up 5 separate sets?

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Good progress! Id have to say gravity bleeding isnt a good idea. I always have someone pump the brakes for me when im bleeding, much faster results. You did start with the furthest caliper from the engine bay right? Then follow to the next furthest. You shouldnt need to rebleed them after a while.. if the pedal is rock hard, youre set.

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

never tried it, gonna have to show me next time your in town...sounds fun..


didn't know you swung both ways peter....lol kiss me thru the phone!!



game!

Re: Make slowboy not so slow
 

Yesterday I got the bearings and rods all attached to the crank, but didn't know how tight to make them. Then Emily's parents came over so I was done for the day. Tonight I torqued all the rod bolts down, so the bottom end is all set to go now.

Got the headstuds installed yesterday with blue loctite, and today I noticed one had seeped some goop up and was loose, so I redid that one. The rest were in great shape, nice and solid. I copper sprayed the stock composite gasket and installed the head. Lubed up the ARP hardware and torqued down to 85 ft-lbs.

After the head was on I got the intake manifold installed and plug wires routed, as well as all the sensors plugged in. The only things left are to bolt on the turbo, do the timing belt, and put the oil pan back on. It should be up and running by Thursday at the latest.

In the pic with the coil pack, check out the home made bracket where the AC was bolted on. No JMF fancy bracket for me, just metal stock.

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I've never really looked at a DSM head before this one, how do these ports compare to stock? I know this head is ported, but how much? Are both intake and exhaust ported?

The hot tank cleaned up the valves a TON better than they were, the intakes are shiny SS now with just a little crud. The exhaust valves didn't clean up quite as well.

The guy who did the head cleanup said the lifters and guides were in great shape, and the valve job it has was done very well, so that's encouraging. Got new seals, the old ones were in terrible condition he said. He also cleaned up a few scratches in the intake cam journal.

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The exhaust side does not look ported me. No idea on the intake though.